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Update: I came home that Saturday as I had planned. Snapped a picture leaving Junction.
As to the drive, the car handled well, no surprises on the way home. For having 2 wheels and tires tied on top, with 185 snow tires bolted on, it made the car a little tipsy around those mountain curves. As well as 4 hours by myself wasn't to fun but it was nice to be able to do what I wanted to on the drive. A friend caught me on the road back though
On the day of Christmas we got some snow here and I finally got to test the viscous and the studded tires. Last winter with this car I had some shitty non studded snows, open diff, and not much for suspension. Lets just say the rear wheels were packed because I was not drifting...
Also, I did get some stock motor mounts ordered from bavauto and they should be here this week.
Now onto an issue, an electrical issue
Around when the cold weather had started creeping in I stumbled across a weird problem with the blower fan. After every time I had shut off the car and had the blower fan on, and pulled out the key WITHOUT shutting the blower fan switch off, the fan would continue to operate. The blower fan/switch, AC switch, and the Re-Circulation switch still worked. So I'm gonna pull some info I have in another thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=343225
Symptoms:
1. Blower Fan continues to work on settings 1,2,3,4 after key has been removed from ignition.
2. Recently with cold temperatures when I start the car and want to defrost the windshield while warming up at idle, the blower fan will come on and off.
Example: I will come out to the car to warm it up and switch the fan on to setting 4 to defrost the windshield, and the damn motor wont come on. A solution I have found is revving the motor to as high of a rpm needed for the fan motor to pop back on.
3. When driving before the engine is up to temperature, it seems, the window switch lights flicker also meaning power to the window motors will flicker on and off.
So I started out with reading the diagram that the Bentley book was giving me.
So here's my idea, this is the K7 relay I am suspecting that is letting power in at all times (if you read at the top of the diagram to the right of fuse 20 it says "battery voltage in run from relay K7")
Onto troubleshooting. My assumption is that the relay K7 is staying open after power had been supplied to it causing the blower fan/switch, AC switch, and re-circulation switch to stay operable after the key has been removed.
It happens that my K6 relay is identical, meaning same part number. To test if the relay is the issue I went and swapped K6 into the K7 spot and put K7 in the K6 spot. Remember that while the motor is running and K7 relay in it's original place the Fan switch, AC, and Re-circulation switch all worked. Upon starting the car up with the relays swapped I found that non of the three switches were operating.
This is very odd, with relays swapped that have 100% matching markings and physical shape, the three switches did not work. Next trouble shoot was to simply put the relays back into their original places, K7 in K7, K6 in K6 to make sure that when everything in it's original place is working like it had before. I started the car up again and to my surprise the three switches did not operate. I thought I had maybe blown fuse 20, and after checking, fuse 20 is still good.
What. The. Fuck. Is. Going. ON.
My previous assumption was that the relay K7 was staying open after power had been supplied to it causing the blower fan/switch, AC switch, and re-circulation switch to stay operable after the key has been removed. After switching identical relays, and motor running, non of the three switches work. Previous to my relay swap, even with the original K7 relay in it's original spot, and the motor on, the three switches had worked! Now when I had put everything back to the way it was before I started troubleshooting the three switches will not operate!
I don't know where to take this from here. Where should I trouble shoot next? If the relay isn't the issue than what is before the relay that I need to troubleshoot? I am going to keep digging in the bentley for an answer but it's very cold outside tonight so anymore poking at the car is going to have to wait until tomorrow.
EDIT I have maybe found a clue as to why the windows seemed to be buggering up along with the heater fan (refer to number 3 of my symptoms). The window circuit as well as the blower motor circuit share the same ground, "G200". I'm going to check this as well as any other components the two circuits share, just to check my bases.
Hello R3v! The semester is almost over so I haven't really done much to her just been driving and enjoying it as much as possible!
I had to take a picture next to this massive truck just to remind myself how small these cars actually are.
And me and my roommate took the cars out on some canyon/mountain roads.
Powder Horn Slopes in the background
Then a little cruise up the monument the other day as well.
Accompanied by friends
But winter mode has commenced:( By the way, working in the dorm parking lot really makes you appreciate having a garage
While I had the front end up on jack stands I poked the underside for a minute. I had discovered my skid plate took a nice hit, saved my pan for sure. Kind of a shitty picture but the plate now touches the pan so I need to bend it back to undo the oil drain plug.
Then among more poking around I saw something I really didn't want to see. It looks like the whole motor is shifted to the driver side. I believe I'm gonna go condor on this one, as well as my transmission mounts that I found are fraying as well but don't have pics. Really scary and once I get her home saturday she's going to be sitting a lot for this reason.
That's all I have been up to! I come home this Saturday for Christmas break. I have yet to see snow so I am hoping I get to test the Viscous diff and studded tires for the first time! Oh and hopefully I can make some money to put into this thing. I post a lot of my pictures on instagram and tend to forget about R3v updates. Follow me @zrec_E30
Really want to go with a different wheel & tire set up for next summer, and I'm thinking of these with low profile or stretched tires. White painted faces too.
So this weekend me and the lady took off for a day to go hoon the mountains! We picked up and left Junction around 2:30 and got back around 9:15. Our little trip was ~250 miles. Here's our route:
We started off going up the Grand Mesa, and wow was that beautiful! Here's a spot that we stopped off at just several miles from powderhorn. Also we weren't even close to the top here either.
The GF's random photos while driving lol.
Here's some I got when we stopped on McClure's pass:
And that's all I have for the trip as to it got kind of boring after McClure's pass, but Glennwood was a nice place to stay for dinner and then a cruise back on i70 to Junction. I've got to say, this car has impressed me. I didn't push the cars limits but I did toss it into quite a few turns and without failure it stuck every time. Every input I gave, she did beautifully. These roads weren't smooth either, some were sectioned up by construction, some were gnarly bouncy, Lambo wouldn't have a chance going 80 down these roads! But at my ride height and where I have the compression set on the Megans it did just fine and I still have an IS lip! It's just a rewarding feeling when you're cruising through turn after turn after turn and the car keeps begging for more. Not one light came on to tell me somethings wrong, nothing broke, it was an all around great day.
Here's a couple shots from my adventure the day before:
Oh and on my drive home from Grand Junction, the left rear trailing arm toe adjustment came loose. Every time I applied power the car would steer one way and back straight when I let off the throttle. So, of course, the first thing I do when I'm home is jack up the car
Then we realized the eccentric was lost along with the nut. I was on borrowed time, if that bolt fell out and the trailing arm gets floppy, serious problems could have happened at 80 mph. So if anyone is wondering with Ireland Engineerings camber/toe correction kits, the thread size is 12x1.25, I'm not sure about other kits. We got a nut and I fabbed up a makeshift eccentric :ghetto:
The car made it back to grand junction but now I have to order the eccentric and but from IE and go through more pain.
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