Meet "Blue Nose" M62b44 swap (Pic Heavy)

[DIIRTY-30]

Well anyone local knows the perils of the 405 on a Friday afternoon. Decided to head down to Garagistic which I originally intended to be leaving at 10:30 and having my buddy drive me down as a favor. Well things don't always go as planned, he had a job interview which he got, and we left at a whopping 2:30 from my house. Needless to say roughly 50 miles shouldn't take longer than what? an hour? Nope guess again. So I spent almost 3 hours in gridlock to get this thing after waiting quite some time, but its done and here. Big chunk of the puzzle, hindsight my only complaint would be the U joints should be serviceable & have circlips. Similar to how Turner makes theirs which is more practical imho especially for a v8 swap that your bound to fuck something up with. Because after all... the swap isn't meant to be to get groceries.











Finally brought it home, got working on coupling the engine and trans together round 29204 or so it felt. After getting it to closer to where I had previously before, also after massaging the pilot bearing and telling it stories, it decided to give in. Lucky me. I got it to the point where the dowels finally wanted to say hello. It began to look like a beautiful love story all over again. After some wiggling and no luck I sat and decided I'd use the bolts on the ear to walk it in, which wasn't at all what i wanted to do but I had no other ideas. To my surprise this worked, so slapped on the starter, torqued everything back down, slapped on the exhaust manifold and we're ready to go. Just a few tiny loose ends, a bit more welding of some things and once the car is back from JMP, hopefully it'll turn over and run. Fingers crossed.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

you sure it was the right pilot bearing, or that everything was in alignment? I think you should be able to wiggle the trans pretty snug without having to use bolts to pull it in. My fear would be that if it can't slip in place without force you might be binding something somewhere. Had this happen with a buddy not to long ago reinstalling the trans on his s4. The motor and trans were out of the car, we couldn't get the trans to slip into place, used bolts to pull it together, wound up that we forced the clutch disk onto the splines of the trans a little off and it caused them to bind which then caused the trans to be inoperable. Had to pull the trans again later to replace the clutch disc.

driveshaft looks beautiful, so does the whole motor

[2mAn]

405 is the worst

[DIIRTY-30]

you sure it was the right pilot bearing, or that everything was in alignment? I think you should be able to wiggle the trans pretty snug without having to use bolts to pull it in. My fear would be that if it can't slip in place without force you might be binding something somewhere. Had this happen with a buddy not to long ago reinstalling the trans on his s4. The motor and trans were out of the car, we couldn't get the trans to slip into place, used bolts to pull it together, wound up that we forced the clutch disk onto the splines of the trans a little off and it caused them to bind which then caused the trans to be inoperable. Had to pull the trans again later to replace the clutch disc.

driveshaft looks beautiful, so does the whole motor

Pilot bearing was really snug, I made sure it fit prior to installing it in the crank. I checked the alignment a couple of times, used a level to make sure the bearing wasn't cocked funny, everything was in line. Disc was centered to where it should be, I think the inner race is too thick or pressured when its inside the crank, could be wrong i'm not a mechanic lol. I didn't use a great deal of force to bolt it together, it literally was that less than what, 1/8" or so, it already hooked into the dowels. Now if I did it from like a 1/2" in I could totally see it being messed up no doubt about that.

I mainly used the bolts to pull it into itself cause i'm doing this 100% alone by myself so I'm not really able to push the front of the motor and the back of the trans at the same time. Especially with the motor hoisted up in the air to keep everything level. Thats pretty much why I walked it in with the bolts. If it breaks it breaks, it would be a costly learning experience but never know till I try it. Just really hoping it all works out and I don't have to do this anytime soon again. If not, then fuckit can't blame anyone other than myself.

Thanks though man, driveshaft does look really good; quality work, just wish the U joints were serviceable for the amount of money it cost all in all. Not really talking shit but just giving ideas for future builds. To me something like that would make a lot more sense.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Gotcha, in that case it sounds fine. Sounded like you used the bolts to pull it like an inch or 2, but at 1/8 it's already lined up. I'm sure it's fine. Carry on!

I also would've thought the joints would be serviceable

[DIIRTY-30]

Gotcha, in that case it sounds fine. Sounded like you used the bolts to pull it like an inch or 2, but at 1/8 it's already lined up. I'm sure it's fine. Carry on!

I also would've thought the joints would be serviceable

Yeah literally if we were talking an inch or more; i'd be super worried. It literally was the distance of the last 3 pics above. So i'm hoping that spawn any issues later on.

As for the joints, you'd think so considering their price. Love their products, just my only gripe regarding it. If it doesn't work out, I have a shop down the block that'll do the work to my exact specs that I want it done worst case. Live & learn.

[DIIRTY-30]

Well little bits for the exhaust are starting to show up. Company sent me out the wrong X pipe but the right ones on its way... So if anyone needs a 2.25" stamped X pipe, let me know. Also have a cool little idea to piss off my neighbors in the works.

Resonators, flanges, oil cooler & oil thermostat should be here before the car comes back from JMP next week. Looking forward to getting this thing completed, getting very close.

[2mAn]

electric or manual cutout?

[DIIRTY-30]

electric or manual cutout?

Manual all the way; I don't really fancy the idea of the electric stuff cause I've read 50/50 reviews on most of them. Seems most of the solenoids either short out or just go bad. Besides heat & electronics don't really mix too well together so don't want to waste my money. Best ones are QTP it seems, but those are close to $500 for two. I can make a set of manual ones for under $60 that'll work just as good.

If I do cable driven, it'll have to be stainless & a thick spring since the condensation from the exhaust would rust the flange. I'm working on trying to get a TIG welder and have my friends brother teach me but that's a little ways away. For the time being I was just going to get a stainless flange and and pick up a sheet of 1/4" SS and do the 3 wing nuts till I have time to fab up something cooler. That way all I really need to do is work on the hinge & cable system later on.

In my opinion this is probably the cooler custom piece i've found but I'm curious how well the seal would be. Considering you can still see that the edges don't fit flush with the inner walls, so exhaust gases still pass through...


Link : http://absurdflow.com/exhaustflapper.html

[thorhack]

The exhaust sounds like an amazing idea! Is it for you or the HOA? :P

[DIIRTY-30]

The exhaust sounds like an amazing idea! Is it for you or the HOA? :P

Ahahahahaha thanks man, by HOA im assuming home owners association?

I don't live in that great of an area of the city to have something like that. My areas the type of area you goto pick up hookers by the liquor store and etc if you really wanted to get a idea lmao.

I'm doing it for myself cause I always like the idea of just open headers, but LAPD & CHP would greatly frown upon that. Secondly it's to piss my next door neighbor off since she owns almost half of the houses on my street, and the guy across from me always gives me dirty looks when I'm working on my cars. He's only recently moved in about 8 months ago so after the fact of when I tore my motor out. Before when I used to drive it, you'd hear me from a block or two away cause I'd ring out my second and third from stop sign to stop sign for fun; just to put a smile on my face. It was more fun when I just had the exhaust manifold on my m20 dump out before I had the exhaust re-welded. Now that was LOUD.


Yeeeeeeeeaahhhhhhh I'm that guy. :hitler:



On a side note my thermostat showed up today... Anyone have suggestions for reasonably priced AN fittings?

[ccsdo5]

https://www.anplumbing.com/

I use this website when I need to buy AN stuff they seem reasonably priced and always ship pretty fast

[DIIRTY-30]

https://www.anplumbing.com/

I use this website when I need to buy AN stuff they seem reasonably priced and always ship pretty fast

Good looking out, appreciate that!

[DIIRTY-30]

Went ahead and spliced the o2 wires back together; snagged them from the same car I got the o2 sensors from. Heat shrink ontop of heatshrink ontop of heatshrink. Cleaned, capped, and wrapped all the auto transmission wiring to avoid hassle. Can't recommend using Super 88 enough, best electrical tape I've ever worked with. Eventually I'll get some wire loom and make everything look a bit cleaner/factory ish. Hopefully I'll have the car back this Friday so I can get started on dropping it back in and turning it over. Just need to figure out two wires for the alternator & for the fuel purge valve. I have these few wires that I'm somewhat unsure of because they don't match my original harness from the 740 & the 540 that I pulled from the yard. Not sure if anyone can advise me on this, wiring isn't really my forte.

Oil cooler came the other day so once the car is infront of me I can start making a bracket and buy the AN fittings. Contacted Earl's plumbing since I wasn't sure what size fittings the thermostat required. Since they're based in the UK; they use UNF fittings there. I'm pretty familiar with NPT but it looks like I need to buy UNF to NPT adapters then NPT to AN to avoid leaks and cross threading. The UNF size is 7/8" 14 pitch for future reference. Going to check out Luky's down the street from me and see if they have any of these odd fittings.

Received the 2.5" X pipe from the company and didn't really think there would be a great difference until I put them side by side. Really glad I went ahead and had them send the 2.5; looks like there's a pretty noticeable difference in the flow. Definitely looking forward to the exhaust work pretty soon.

Only things I really need to tend to at this point are the shift carrier & selector once the engine is back in. From there run a wire to the starter & alternator, and we should be in business finally. Oh yeah and I got this cool little mulholland sticket since I pretty much drive it everyday for work.



















2.25"




2.50"







Oh and for a little humor; I keep seeing this one meme pop up on instagram since I had a few mins to burn I figured I'd make my own. Never made one before but fuqqitt.... This is the #1 most asked question from my friends and co-workers so I found this incredibly appropriate.

[efficient]

Lol. Keep up the good work