New Member - 1989 325ix and Evo

[TehRaydarlover]

Dang, that's a low ix! Looks great!

[iXguido]

what are your driving impressions so far? that thing looks awesome, well done

[fresh_TD]

Looks sweet...I need this set up

Sent from my GS4 Active

[AWDBOB]

Suspension settled

[AWDBOB]

that looks amazing! reminds me of my old ix :(

Thanks, man! I'd say you need another :up:

[iXguido]

that looks amazing! reminds me of my old ix :(

[AWDBOB]

Yes

As far as height, its where you welded the perch. Thats only a 3" adjuster, you could have welded it up 1" higher. You can also get 6" adjusters on ebay and cut to suit.

GC camber plates would raise it up a tad as well (~1/4").

Yep, unfortunately the PO welded the perches on. eBay adjusters aren't a bad idea. I don't hate the ride height, though. In person it looks pretty sweet, and the car is pretty damn responsive. Can definitely feel the swaybar geometry being off, though.

What end links do you run? Also, do you have a rear sway or any other suspension mods?

[nando]

Yes

As far as height, its where you welded the perch. Thats only a 3" adjuster, you could have welded it up 1" higher. You can also get 6" adjusters on ebay and cut to suit.

GC camber plates would raise it up a tad as well (~1/4").

[AWDBOB]

got the front coils on today. This is almost maxed out on high. Had no idea it was going to be this low.

I need adj endlinks too, which I forgot to order. Do the M3 ones work on the iX?

[AWDBOB]

Gland nuts finally came in from Koni. Man, these things are short compared to the stockers! Finally going on tomorrow.



Started the lip polishing, got through 320, 400, and 800. Starting to look good!

[AWDBOB]

Out with the old, in with the new. Yes, that is electrical tape, and yes, it held up for far too long.




Also, stole the front end from the 4dr!

[AWDBOB]

I have the 284/272 schrick cam on a 2.7 stroker with 10.2/1 compression. I lightened the stock flywheel to 13lbs. The car idles around 900 with some lumpiness. Stock new valve springs and rockers have held up for 40k+ miles with frequent redlines. The vibration is ok until you get aftermarket motor mounts, stick with stock.

An engine with slightly less cam and stock compression will be the hot ticket for a daily. It retains the smoothness these engines are famous for.


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I hear you on the motor mounts. The Evo has solid mounts and there's definitely some serious vibration, but damn, that 1-2 shift is smooth :)

I ran a 2.8 m20 turbo before and it reved 7000 all night long! Balance was great and the bearings etc looked great when i parted it out after 2-3 years of heavy use with minimum 480whp :)

Fantastic! I had the wrist pin moved up 6mm to accommodate the 100mm crank and 156mm rods in the Evo, but on the 4g63/64 rod angle is pretty crucial to bearing wear. Glad to know we can get away with it here :up:

Also, if you're going to, order those Koni gland nuts now, as mine have been on backorder for a while with no expected delivery date. It's the only thing holding me back from putting the coils on.

they're MM pistons. the pin height does require the use of a special oil control ring but I haven't had any problems with oil burning and I've put 80,000 miles on it - doesn't burn any at all (leaks are another issue).

there are lots of good or better options these days but I do have to say the MM pistons have been extremely trouble free and they do not make any noise during cold starts. other than having more power and torque it drives pretty much like a stock engine does.

Not that I've been around long, but it doesn't seem like a 'driven' M20 exists without leaks. I guess it adds character haha.

MM makes some great stuff. I'm actually using their ring set for the stock i pistons, as they apparently break in far better than the stock chrome-faced rings.

[nando]

What pistons did you use? Your R/S is better than my configuration for high revs (1.67), but I'm assuming you had to move the wrist pin up on the piston a few mm to use those rods?

Good point about piston dwell, also. I doubt I'll notice any difference in bearing wear because I won't be spinning the motor past 7k anyway. It's the over revs that kill the rod bearings.

Seems like the M20, despite the fact that it doesn't make a ton of power, is a very smooth engine through and through.

Any idea what is too much for M52 crank (forged, right?), E rods, and i pistons? I'm assuming the pistons would be the weak point of the build, but am not sure about the integrity of the E rods.

they're MM pistons. the pin height does require the use of a special oil control ring but I haven't had any problems with oil burning and I've put 80,000 miles on it - doesn't burn any at all (leaks are another issue).

there are lots of good or better options these days but I do have to say the MM pistons have been extremely trouble free and they do not make any noise during cold starts. other than having more power and torque it drives pretty much like a stock engine does.

[Nisse Järnet]

I ran a 2.8 m20 turbo before and it reved 7000 all night long! Balance was great and the bearings etc looked great when i parted it out after 2-3 years of heavy use with minimum 480whp :)

[Wild Ride]

Also thanks for shedding light on the sedan vs coupe. Car looks much cleaner in pictures just like when you see a car advertised on Craigslist. So your reasoning is very logical.


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