524td project "Rommel's Rod"

[phreshkid]

Updates? And don't say "None".

[2mAn]

there you go ;)

[BuzzBomb]

2Man, That engine bay is beautiful. I'm sticking with the M106 idea. I like keeping it old school based with a little trickery added...

[2mAn]

I'll just leave this here....

[BuzzBomb]

Some good suggestions. I'll consult my therapist. If he says to do it, I'll get a new therapist.

[16v_e30]

might as well go v16

I've got a Veyron engine in my garage if you want it OP. Should bolt right up to a 524td, no mods necessary.

[MarkB]

Subscribed for sure, would love me an e28 one day. Diesels do not need to be smogged in Cali right?

[freeride53]

might as well go v16

[phreshkid]

Might as well go s62. I know Jed has an extra one sitting in the warehouse. Transmission is there too.

[2mAn]

I figured it was since you went through the trouble to pick up a diesel reg'd car, but the " deep tissue massaged B35 or 745 powerplant" had me thinking you werent going wild. carry on. I'll be watching :)

[BuzzBomb]

Nice pickup. Why not go wild with the powerplant since you're free to do as you please.

That's the plan, Mr Man!

[BuzzBomb]

524td project "Rommel's Rod"

Installing M-Tech wheel arch flares, doing it right. I know most people seem to think that just cutting the mounting studs off and using adhesive is the preferred method, but I don't agree. Since I like punishment, I ordered the templates and all the mounting hardware from the dealer. Strangely, the front left jig(template) is NLA but the others aren't.

For anyone interested, the process (since the instructions from BMW is no longer available either) is thus:

Gather all the hardware, including the jigs.

Tools needed are drill, small pilot hole bit and the full size bit for the holes you need to drill (!), sandpaper, center punch, hammer, mallet, self-etching primer.

1)Take some time and test fit the templates. There are no instructions, which makes this a challenge. You would think it would be obvious where to lay the templates, but it isn't. Probably start with the front flares, since you can adjust the hole position in the fender if you don't get it right since you didn't get the jig positioned correctly. The rears use grommets so you gotta get it right the first time.

2)Remove the backing tape and apply the jigs. You can peel them off a few times safely to reposition them. Because the front L side jig isn't available, you'll need to use the backing from the right side and hold it in place on the fender with tape.

3)Center punch the mounting holes.

4)Drill pilot holes, then use larger correct size bit(rear), the first bit is enough for the fronts.

5)Remove jig, de-burr the holes by lightly sanding the surface of the opening. Dust the new holes with primer and let dry.

6)Push the grommets into the rear holes, and seat them with the mallet if needed.

7)Install flares: rear just push on, fronts are held by nuts that have the rubber seal, the same ones used for the "is" rear spoiler.

[2mAn]

Nice pickup. Why not go wild with the powerplant since you're free to do as you please.

[BuzzBomb]

A few updates, getting ready for paint:
Firstly, kids, don't believe someone who says that the little paint bubbles that are peeking out from under the window seal is just a little surface rust, or that it's an easy fix. It never is. What you're seeing is the tail of the beast. The origin is always much more dramatic. I'm having those spots cut out and new sheet metal welded in. Also having the rear lower valance replaced with Euro sheet metal that includes the exhaust cut-out. Then all the US bumper trim and other holes filled and re-texturized.

[BuzzBomb]

Nothing underneath. Engine-trans-shaft-diff-axles were gone. Interior out. It's perfect, since it saves me time removing that stuff. Still a long road ahead.