Hennarot S50B32 M3 consumes my spare time

[IronFreak]

Did you buy the waterpump direct? or source a used one. I have been eyeballing those for awhile.

P.S......I emailed you back on the welders and other items.

[Eric]

I've acquired a Davis Craig electric water pump and digital controller, and a used MR-2 Spyder (2000-2005) electro-hydraulic power steering pump (EHPS)! I should be installing the EHPS in the next few weeks. the EWP depends on my ability to source a used euro S50 water pump to gut.

[Eric]

http://youtu.be/nD1goF2hfjU

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MPLFoster]

cool

[Eric]

Yesterday I found out this girl used to own my car...

http://www.s14.net/forums/forum/s14/e30-m3-galleries/member-s-cars/29548-parting-shots-of-my-m3-with-girl/page2?t=28840

[diegom6]

Congrats Eric! Nice to see you got a M3. I bet it feels like train on rails vs the e28 M5...that's what happen to me when I switch between the e34 M5 and the M3;)

Henna is one of my favorites colors as well. If I would own another M3 I would like to be henna.

[tinkerputzer]

Really tough call man. Those concaves look freekin sweet, but i'd probably go with et42 17x9 unless you feel like compomising and running more spacer or less brake.

[Eric]

Alright, so yesterday I made a quick drive up north for a bit of wheel measuring.


DSC_3520 by ericandshovin, on Flickr

We test fit two wheels:
-Black 17.8lbs 17x9 et42 (flat) with puffy BFG R1's 255/40/17
-silver 16.9lbs 17x9.5 et35 (concave) with Dunlop ZII's 255/40/17.
Various spacers were used to line everything up.

I would absolutely love to run Apex's concave 17x9 et30 wheel, but I'll probably run into clearance problems with the willwood calipers.:big cry:

As I guessed, the calipers caused a bit of trouble. On the concave wheel, I had to run 25mm of spacer to clear the caliper.

DSC_3535 by ericandshovin, on Flickr

The caliper clearance interference can be solved in a few ways:
1. run the non concave wheels
2. steal the larger brake kit off my 325 track car. This will move the caliper outboard 10-13mm and give the spokes more space to move away from the caliper. Check out the profile differences Rallye vs. Race
3. Ditch the E30 M3 suspension in favor of E36 M3 suspension. With the deeper mounting depth of the caliper, I will have more room between the spokes and the caliper. E30 M3 vs. E36 M3
4. replace the SL6R with the thinner SL6R14. This caliper is no longer being made by wilwood, so it would require finding it NOS from a vender or used on the internet.






So, overall how did they fit? Surprisingly pretty good!
Untitled by ericandshovin, on Flickr

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Untitled by ericandshovin, on Flickr



DSC_3531 by ericandshovin, on Flickr

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Untitled by ericandshovin, on Flickr





Pro's & Cons:


17x9.5 et35 concave wheel:

DSC_3526 by ericandshovin, on Flickr

+ Fit with a 25mm spacer to clear the wilwoods on the front side and less than a pinky finger width between the strut and the wheel. A phone call into apex revealed that the 1/2" difference between two concave wheels is all on the back, so I could possibly run 20mm spacer to sink the wheel in a little bit, but this would require a change in brake kits (I have them already, no cost change)
+ Prefer the look. Really really really prefer the look!
+ the concave 17x9 wheel weigh's 1.3lbs less per corner than the flat faced wheel. Maximum weight loss is not my end goal, but every little bit helps.
- These will stick out 13mm more than the proven setup Hyboost is running. I don't want to pay for respraying the fenders after a bad bump!
- Apex only has the anthracite version in stock. I think it will look good against the orange, but it would look better in silver, like the ones test fit on the car
- With the wheel sticking out 10+mm further, I might be limited to only a 245/40/17 square tire instead of a 255/40/17.
- Didn't actually fit the 17x9 et30 wheel, so I have to take what I learned from the 17x9.5 et35 wheel and make a good educated guess. :ohsnap:





17x9 et42 flat wheel

DSC_3528 by ericandshovin, on Flickr

+ Proven to work, both with Hyboost's information on S14.net and with yesterday's test fit.
+ less spacer needed to make the wheel fit
+ No brake caliper clearance problems
+ No need to change brake kits, suspension setups or even spacers... just bolt on and go!
+ I can run 255/40/17's no problem.
- I've alway thought the flat face ones were boring. This is a decade of disliking the look of this wheel (BBS RC then Apex). Might seam stupid, but this is a big big deal to me! On the other hand the black wheel with the huge tire did look pretty good and I think it might grow on me.
- Not concave






With either wheel setup, these steps will be performed to maximize potential & minimize risk...
- Roll all fenders flat
- Increase camber in the front as much as possible, up to -3.5deg
- Increase rear camber by TA adjustments, and lower ride height
- Lower front ride height to sink wheel into wheel well
- remove fender liners
- Turner motorsports steering stops


As always, your opinions are greatly appreciated! What do you think I should do???
DSC_3524 by ericandshovin, on Flickr

[tinkerputzer]

R1R's are a great size, but they seam to be one hit wonders. You have to shave them to make them perform, and at full tread they overheat and chunk. I need a tire that performs for more than a few runs!

The R1R's are funny. Some people love them and some people hate them. I've not had the opportunity myself but this guy has nothing but good things to say about them. He ran them on his STR MX5 and consistently has his best time of day on his first run.

The ZII's were awesome this year, and will work for next year too, but I want to go faster, and I think wider tires might help a little!

They'll definitely help. I was in same boat awhile back. There are a several well driven cars here with with similar power to weight ratio that i was always trying to catch and was consistently 2-3 seconds slower. Finally it dawned on me, they are all on 255's and here i am running 225's. After fitting 245/40/17 rs3 v2's i'm with in .5-1 second of them and if i was a better driver it would probably be less.

Hopefully I can try on some 17x9's in the next week or two.

Get on it!!1 Looking forward to the result.

In the mean time, here is my fast run from the last auto-x of our season. The M3 is awesome to drive, and makes me look like a hero, haha!

That was a freekin awesome run! You killed the slaloms :up:

[Eric]

I know the feeling of being offered penuts to work on airplanes. It really takes the wind out of your sails when trying to get your start in the field. Anyways you've made the most of your situation and had some great experiences. I googled 9S100, sounds like a pretty sweet gig!

Back on topic: something to keep in mind is you are lighter then those other cars you are competing against so matching them in tire size isn't quite necessary. I'd be willing to bet 245's would do the trick. If you decide on 255's or 245's definitely put them on a 9" wheel. The concave arc 8's would look sick and are a nice light wheel. 245/35/17 R1R's can be good but don't like heat. Couple of the top local guys in str run them religiously. RS3 v2's had a great showing at nationals this year. I run them myself and can't say enough good things about them. I'd be tempted to try the zll star specs though. Either route you choose i think you're on the path to a great wheel tire setup.

R1R's are a great size, but they seam to be one hit wonders. You have to shave them to make them perform, and at full tread they overheat and chunk. I need a tire that performs for more than a few runs! The ZII's were awesome this year, and will work for next year too, but I want to go faster, and I think wider tires might help a little!

Hopefully I can try on some 17x9's in the next week or two.

In the mean time, here is my fast run from the last auto-x of our season. The M3 is awesome to drive, and makes me look like a hero, haha!

[tinkerputzer]

Short answer about the A&P gig. I went through all the pre-req's and started looking for work. At the time it was $12 starting off at Skywest's locally, or maybe $15 up at united in San Francisco, or work at a mom & pop place for peanuts. I figured working on AF planes at the local guard base would be cooler (they have F16's) than a flying bus, so I started looking into joining the ANG. A girl and I broke off a 3 year relationship at this time, so I figured joining the real AF and trying to get stationed in germany would be cooler than staying in Fresno. Ended up joining as AMMO, did that for 6 years, then in 2011 retrained to be a 9S100 (google it, pretty neat job).

So I never took my oral & practical, which is one of the dumbest decisions I made in my early 20's, and have never wrenched on a plane, haha!

I know the feeling of being offered penuts to work on airplanes. It really takes the wind out of your sails when trying to get your start in the field. Anyways you've made the most of your situation and had some great experiences. I googled 9S100, sounds like a pretty sweet gig!

Back on topic: something to keep in mind is you are lighter then those other cars you are competing against so matching them in tire size isn't quite necessary. I'd be willing to bet 245's would do the trick. If you decide on 255's or 245's definitely put them on a 9" wheel. The concave arc 8's would look sick and are a nice light wheel. 245/35/17 R1R's can be good but don't like heat. Couple of the top local guys in str run them religiously. RS3 v2's had a great showing at nationals this year. I run them myself and can't say enough good things about them. I'd be tempted to try the zll star specs though. Either route you choose i think you're on the path to a great wheel tire setup.

[Eric]

Finally read through this thread. Sweet build dude! I like the direction it's going :up:

I'm sure you've done your home work, but i think you may have some challenges fitting 255/40/17's mainly due to the diameter and the e30's limited wheel well space. 245/40/17's may be a good compromise.

OT but what do you do now if you attended A&P school but don't safety wire on a regular basis? I think i saw reference to airforce in the thread so you'll understand when i say i work on gucci jets :)

Oh and nice safety wire job btw.

Thanks dude!:up:

Short answer about the A&P gig. I went through all the pre-req's and started looking for work. At the time it was $12 starting off at Skywest's locally, or maybe $15 up at united in San Francisco, or work at a mom & pop place for peanuts. I figured working on AF planes at the local guard base would be cooler (they have F16's) than a flying bus, so I started looking into joining the ANG. A girl and I broke off a 3 year relationship at this time, so I figured joining the real AF and trying to get stationed in germany would be cooler than staying in Fresno. Ended up joining as AMMO, did that for 6 years, then in 2011 retrained to be a 9S100 (google it, pretty neat job).

So I never took my oral & practical, which is one of the dumbest decisions I made in my early 20's, and have never wrenched on a plane, haha!

As for the 255's vs. 245's, I have been reading up on this Hyboost's success at running 255 NT01, which I'm guessing is fatter than a street tire. 255 seam to be a favorite with the E36 M3 guys, and next year I'll probably be driving against a pair of E46 M3's on 285/30's.

http://www.s14.net/forums/forum/s14/club-racing-autoxing-and-track-talk/58251-nt01-255-40-17-front-oem-fenders-success

I got 265/35/18 Dunlop Direzza (1st gen I think)to fit in the back Eric. They only rubbed on big dips on the highway. They were rubbing on the inside of the tub though, not the fenders. I think those wheels were 18x9.5, I'd have to check to be sure though.
The fronts are gonna be tough to fit 255s into. I had alot of cutting/heat molding done on the fender liners and things still rub plastic upfront.

side note: I have the exact same issue w/ fuel starvation on right handers. Going to have to look into your fix!

Yes, the back can swallow a lot more tire than the front! I'm hopping I don't have to swap the fenders out for the higher EVO ones, but it would allow me to lower the car a bit more. I'll probably have to remove the fender liners, or just trim the tops out so it is only blocking all the rocks from collecting in that nook between the firewall and the side skirt/fender.


I think I have 3 options for tires.

Toyo R1R in 245/35/17. Best option for fitment, best tire for SCCA SOLO nationals only when shaved. Worst tire in the "extreme summer" class. They are slow, chunk, and get hard after runs if ran at full tread. I honestly don't think these would be faster at full tread depth than my 225/45/16 ZII's.

Bridgestone RE11 in 255/40/17. Free because I won the autocross at this years BMW CCA Oktoberfest (how cool is that!), but not the top tire in the category. I LOVED running the ZII's this year, and I'm afraid that these might be a let down. They are free though...

Dunlop ZII Star Spec in 255/40/17. I had great success with the ZII's in 225/45/16 this year, but buying a set of these is another $800... hmmm...


Eddy's 17x8.5 would be a great wheel to mimic Hyboost's setup.

http://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-products/e36-m3/17x8-5-ET40-APEX-ARC-8-Wheel.html#.VBd3OUvcqlI

Here is an online calculator showing the difference between my current auto-x setup, 16x7.5/225/45/16 vs. the 17x8.5/255/40/17 setup hyboost describes in the S14.net link above.


and here is the same calculator showing the difference between my track setup, 17x8/235/40/17 vs Hyboost's setup


And Apex's 17x9 might be a good option as well.

http://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-products/e36-m3/17x9-ET42-APEX-ARC-8-Wheel.html#.VBd3fUvcqlI

I would absolutely love to run Apex's concave 17x9 et30 wheel, but I'll probably run into clearance problems with the willwood calipers.:big cry:

http://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-products/e36-m3/17x9-ET42-APEX-ARC-8-Wheel.html#.VBd3fUvcqlI

Here is a online calculator showing the difference between Hyboost's 8.5/255 setup and his new 9/255 setup. I'm really hoping 15mm spacers will clear my willwoods so I can run that great concave and big fat wheels!


Alex(cloudbase) has both of the last two wheels with BFG R1's, so I need to make a trip up north and do a bit of experimenting!

[Hansel]

I got 265/35/18 Dunlop Direzza (1st gen I think)to fit in the back Eric. They only rubbed on big dips on the highway. They were rubbing on the inside of the tub though, not the fenders. I think those wheels were 18x9.5, I'd have to check to be sure though.
The fronts are gonna be tough to fit 255s into. I had alot of cutting/heat molding done on the fender liners and things still rub plastic upfront.

side note: I have the exact same issue w/ fuel starvation on right handers. Going to have to look into your fix!

[tinkerputzer]

Finally read through this thread. Sweet build dude! I like the direction it's going :up:

I'm sure you've done your home work, but i think you may have some challenges fitting 255/40/17's mainly due to the diameter and the e30's limited wheel well space. 245/40/17's may be a good compromise.

OT but what do you do now if you attended A&P school but don't safety wire on a regular basis? I think i saw reference to airforce in the thread so you'll understand when i say i work on gucci jets :)

Oh and nice safety wire job btw.

[Eric]

winter project: fit 255/40/17's square...