It's not too bad if you have the tools. Even if I sent you a template, you'd have to hang the motor in there, cut the steel, drill all the holes, position it exactly where you want it, etc… Making the template was the easiest part. You can do it. Just go do it.
I have a solid 1/2" between the crank pulley and the radiator. That's with about 15 whacks to the trans tunnel/firewall area. I'm extremely pleased.
The transmission output flange is 58 5/8" from the diff flange. My mostly compressed m20 g260 driveshaft is 56 7/8" plus 1 1/4" guibo. You do the math. Ok I'll do it for you, that means this setup has the transmission output very near where it is in an m20b25 car (within 1/2"). That's pretty neat.
I reckon I should see about the shift linkage today. Maybe it'll be all serendipitous as well...
M30b34 E30 twin-screw supercharged muscle car
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You should make a template for those engine mount brackets and send it to me ;) I need b34 mounts on the cheapLeave a comment:
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Yeah, I might do that. Those mounts are poly from G-man the visionary.Leave a comment:
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I highly suggest boxing your mounts like fear said. A lot of weight on just two brackets. Are you going with Polly or rubber mounts?Leave a comment:
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Well, that wasn't so bad.
Step 1: Adjust clocking and then make the trans brace work and hold the engine where you like it front to back and centered in the tunnel.
Step 2: Center crank in the radiator opening.
Step 3: Adjust engine height and front to back angle with the hoist.
Step 4: Weld.
Step 5: Enjoy
The clocking of mine engine.
The clearance at the rack/pan junction.
When I fill those welds with JB Weld and paint em, you'll never know it!
And did anyone spot my sweet plywood scrap jack stands?Leave a comment:
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Ok, got a little shit did. Heres my first ever motor mount arm. Driver side, 3,5…
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Just curious how come your making your own mounts instead of going with say qbangLeave a comment:
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