M30b34 E30 twin-screw supercharged muscle car

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • LJ851
    replied
    Originally posted by Ether-D
    Well, my "Christmas bonus" was a bit less than I expected so I'm gonna have to slow it down a bit for financial reasons.

    Is that even possible?

    Leave a comment:


  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by Ether-D
    Well, my "Christmas bonus" was a bit less than I expected so I'm gonna have to slow it down a bit for financial reasons.

    Hate when that happens.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ether-D
    replied
    Well, my "Christmas bonus" was a bit less than I expected so I'm gonna have to slow it down a bit for financial reasons.

    Leave a comment:


  • G-Man the Visionary
    replied
    Been stalking you for a while hoping to see something super cool.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ether-D
    replied
    Been working out of townish and haven't done jack shit. I'm also back to trying to get it running pre-supercharger. Maybe on the ms2 I have for the other car.

    checklist:
    crank sensor and e34 harmonic balancer
    IAT sensor
    TPS
    O2 sensor and controller
    C101 (re) rewired
    fuel air spark

    What else?

    Leave a comment:


  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    ^ that awesome haha

    Leave a comment:


  • CorvallisBMW
    replied
    Originally posted by slammin.e28
    One conjunction: Boomtubes.

    Flat, low profile, and LOUD.

    ;D;D;)
    Totally do-able:

    Leave a comment:


  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Imo is reinforce the subframe it's 15 bucks and 30 min of welding that will save you a head ache.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ether-D
    replied
    I'm gonna have to weigh it. Iiiiiiiregardless, I'm adding at least 40lbs of supercharger to it as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by nighthawk
    I thought the m30 was actually not that much heavier than the m20?

    Especially without ac and relocated battery. I remember reading people with these swaps saying that the weight is always exaggerated.

    From my personal experience that sob is heavy.

    Leave a comment:


  • nighthawk
    replied
    Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30
    Also reinforcing the subframe will help handle the power and weight of the motor. Cause over time with weight and power it's not a matter of if but when you will twist your subframe and bend the shit out of the mounting points cause the m30 way heavier then the m20.
    I thought the m30 was actually not that much heavier than the m20?
    Especially without ac and relocated battery. I remember reading people with these swaps saying that the weight is always exaggerated.

    Leave a comment:


  • GnarShark
    replied
    Haha holy sh!t, you are really turning this into a hot rod!!! This will be so rad!

    Sub'd

    Leave a comment:


  • Ether-D
    replied
    Originally posted by Eric
    It's your build, so do what you want
    Thanks!

    Originally posted by Eric
    ...But with all the fab you've talked about doing in the last 4 pages, it seams like you could have done a bit less typing and a bit more welding
    Be a bit more polite if you want people to listen to you. Also, spell check.

    Originally posted by Eric
    then these arms could be done correctly in a few hours.
    How many e30m30 mounts have you made? Seems like you've made quite a few.

    Originally posted by Eric
    M30 is a heavy motor and all longitudinal forces (acceleration/braking) are hinged (literally) on the t-joint fillet welds. In the title of your build you say it's a muscle car & you plan on supercharging the motor, so I can only hope that the car will be driven with some gusto. With the potential forces applied and the weld joints in shear, especially down at the motor mount, I'd really be surprised if your radiator didn't eat some distributor cap sometime in the future.
    I'd prefer to think the distributor cap will be eating the radiator. ;D

    Originally posted by Eric
    A simple piece stuck in the middle creating an H-beam would completely eliminate all shear potential on the joint. Look at most OEM arms, they are boxed or H-beam for a reason!
    They are also made of stock that's less than 1/4 the thickness of what I used.
    Yes, the piece in the middle will make them stronger. I will gladly eat crow if they ever bend in any way. This is how I do things. If they break, I will fix them and I will know that they should have been stronger. But if they don't break, I will know that they were great, and I will not mock you for it.

    Originally posted by Eric
    What method of welding did you use? GMAW, SMAW? How many passes? SMAW you say? What type of rod?
    I used a lincoln MIG welder. Flux core .035 . Many passes.

    In closing, don't stroll up into someone's build thread and get all critical of shit without saying one nice thing. :???:

    Good day sir.

    Leave a comment:


  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    M30b34 E30 muscle car

    Originally posted by Eric
    It's your build, so do what you want...But with all the fab you've talked about doing in the last 4 pages, it seams like you could have done a bit less typing and a bit more welding; then these arms could be done correctly in a few hours.



    The M30 is a heavy motor and all longitudinal forces (acceleration/braking) are hinged (literally) on the t-joint fillet welds. In the title of your build you say it's a muscle car & you plan on supercharging the motor, so I can only hope that the car will be driven with some gusto. With the potential forces applied and the weld joints in shear, especially down at the motor mount, I'd really be surprised if your radiator didn't eat some distributor cap sometime in the future. A simple piece stuck in the middle creating an H-beam would completely eliminate all shear potential on the joint. Look at most OEM arms, they are boxed or H-beam for a reason!



    What method of welding did you use? GMAW, SMAW? How many passes? SMAW you say? What type of rod?

    Also reinforcing the subframe will help handle the power and weight of the motor. Cause over time with weight and power it's not a matter of if but when you will twist your subframe and bend the shit out of the mounting points cause the m30 way heavier then the m20.

    Leave a comment:


  • slammin.e28
    replied
    Originally posted by Ether-D
    It was too much. I wanted to do it, but I couldn't get the passenger side pipe over there without sacrificing ground clearance. That was the thing I was unwilling to sacrifice.
    One conjunction: Boomtubes.

    Flat, low profile, and LOUD.

    ;D;D;)

    Leave a comment:

Working...