M30b34 E30 twin-screw supercharged muscle car

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Originally posted by totheredline
    You should make a template for those engine mount brackets and send it to me ;) I need b34 mounts on the cheap
    It's not too bad if you have the tools. Even if I sent you a template, you'd have to hang the motor in there, cut the steel, drill all the holes, position it exactly where you want it, etc… Making the template was the easiest part. You can do it. Just go do it.

    I have a solid 1/2" between the crank pulley and the radiator. That's with about 15 whacks to the trans tunnel/firewall area. I'm extremely pleased.

    The transmission output flange is 58 5/8" from the diff flange. My mostly compressed m20 g260 driveshaft is 56 7/8" plus 1 1/4" guibo. You do the math. Ok I'll do it for you, that means this setup has the transmission output very near where it is in an m20b25 car (within 1/2"). That's pretty neat.

    I reckon I should see about the shift linkage today. Maybe it'll be all serendipitous as well...

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by Ether-D
    Yeah, I might do that. Those mounts are poly from G-man the visionary.

    The definitely box them out the vibration from the motor and the weight would be to much to risk IMO and you can never have to much reinforcement.

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  • totheredline
    replied
    You should make a template for those engine mount brackets and send it to me ;) I need b34 mounts on the cheap

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Yeah, I might do that. Those mounts are poly from G-man the visionary.

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    I highly suggest boxing your mounts like fear said. A lot of weight on just two brackets. Are you going with Polly or rubber mounts?

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Well, that wasn't so bad.

    Step 1: Adjust clocking and then make the trans brace work and hold the engine where you like it front to back and centered in the tunnel.

    Step 2: Center crank in the radiator opening.

    Step 3: Adjust engine height and front to back angle with the hoist.

    Step 4: Weld.

    Step 5: Enjoy







    The clocking of mine engine.



    The clearance at the rack/pan junction.



    When I fill those welds with JB Weld and paint em, you'll never know it!


    And did anyone spot my sweet plywood scrap jack stands?

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Thanks for your input.

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  • F34R
    replied
    You NEED to box that mount arm in...top and bottom sides.

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Ok, got a little shit did. Heres my first ever motor mount arm. Driver side, 3,5…

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  • slammin.e28
    replied
    Originally posted by LJ851
    Disregard my posts, i've been wrapped up in M90s too long, apparently. The pictures here show standard B34 heads and manifolds.
    I'd love for you to wrap me up into some M90s......

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Originally posted by agent
    Condensed that a bit for you sir.

    I lolled.

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  • agent
    replied
    Originally posted by Ether-D
    Because... I can
    Condensed that a bit for you sir.

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30
    Just curious how come your making your own mounts instead of going with say qbang
    Because part of the fun of the build for me is how inexpensively I can do it. $200 is more than I wanna give for something I can do myself.

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Just curious how come your making your own mounts instead of going with say qbang

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  • G-Man the Visionary
    replied
    logs... bananas... wood... this car is awesome!

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