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My 1988 e30 325ix - Garage'd

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  • mike.bmw
    replied
    I've only ever MIG'd an entryway table together, but I've always wanted to learn how to weld well/properly. I think it's awesome you are tackling all this yourself. Keep up the good work!

    Also, I think you should try to fit those 24"s under the E30. You may have to cut and weld some structure, but it'll totally be worth it in the end. ;)

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    Here is the other portion of rust I have to fix before I can prime, seam seal, dynomat and then put back in the carpet. This should be much easier than rebuilding the whole corner. There also is a rust hole in the corner though, but it doesn't look nearly as bad as the driver's side. Also a bonus picture of my new whip...
    Last edited by jeenyus; 10-17-2019, 02:16 PM.

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    Disclaimer, I am no welder and this is literally my learning on a flux welder... Not ideal. Also, rust is cancer and I hate it! I have been working on this for a long time. I have been teaching myself along the way and it's been a frustrating endeavor, haha! YouTube made it look way easier!! Anyway, this is what I came up with. All surfaces will be covered in 2k epoxy primer and seam sealer, then rubberized undercoat for the exterior portions. I haven't been posting this up for two reasons. One, nobody wants to see this until it's finished I'm sure and two, I didn't want to get too much grief for going with a flux welder and having my shitty welds examined. LoL! I am happy to be done with one side, but I still have the passenger side to fix which has at least three rust spots close to the transmission tunnel and the corner as well has to be remade... Ugh. My goal is to finish this so I can drive the IX in the snow this winter! I want it for winter driving without having to worry about my car being fully eaten by salt.

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    I guess I should give a little bit of an update. I wanted to fully finish the project before I did, but teaching yourself to weld is harder than I thought it would be. I am making progress and my welding is getting better and I think that the process will speed up a little because of that. Time also prevents this from going as quick as I'd like, but little by little getting there. I have almost finished the drivers floor corner, where this whole process started and then I can go to the other side and I have two fairly small holes of rust from the exhaust shield studs (I guess this is a common place for rust). I will update with pictures as I get closer, but I've removed all the old sound deadning. I have new dynamat to cover the floor. I have two drain plugs, as those were rusted through, but didn't eat the floor. I have a couple cans of epoxy primer and seam sealer when all is said and done. this has been a great learning experience, similar to my whole history with the e30.

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  • Eskie
    replied
    Originally posted by jeenyus View Post
    This drain plug right by the gas pedal insert/stand is a hard part to find accurately and I'm wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction? It's pretty small and on realoem.com they have them all listed individually without reference to where they are in the floor. I think there are three different sizes there. here is the link. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_1746
    Unfortunately you have to pull it out and measure the hole diameter. You're right that the plug is in that catalog picture. It's most likely the 18.5mm one--part number 51211838473.

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  • s14brent
    replied
    good info here...i'm going to have to repair a smaller rust spot in the same area (driver foot well). figured I'm going to have to depressurize fuel lines and just wrap a fiberglass blanket over the lines....not looking forward to doing this at all quite honestly.

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    This drain plug right by the gas pedal insert/stand is a hard part to find accurately and I'm wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction? It's pretty small and on realoem.com they have them all listed individually without reference to where they are in the floor. I think there are three different sizes there. here is the link. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_1746

    Leave a comment:


  • Kershaw
    replied
    Plastidip will be easier to remove unless you get quick release vinyl which has dots of adhesive on the back. Either option, don't leave it on for more than 2 years before reapplying it.

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    Oh wait I just realized that was a suggestion probably. Yea I thought about that too. Maybe some black vinyl. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
    Black plastidip?
    No, I painted it with SEM trim black Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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  • Kershaw
    replied
    Black plastidip?

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    I put a euro filler plate on. I think it looks nice. Anyone have a remedy for the sides and making them line up more flush? I can see the white underneath at certain angles. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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  • D.Martijn
    replied
    Originally posted by jeenyus View Post
    Ok very cool. I read it can't be applied to etching primer either so I'm gonna get the epoxy primer. Better just for me to do it right the first time in this one. I ordered some dynamat to put in as well. I'll be using some dry ice go remove the sound dampening that's in there just to make sure there isn't any hiding rust spots under there. Welder has arrived, need to pick up some sheet metal and start practicing welds and then I think I'll move over to the car. Probably gonna use 16 gauge steel, might be easier to weld for me. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    Just take your time making the patch and when welding it in. Just do tack per tack. What welder did you get? Please don't tell me it's a flux core, you'll have an even harder time to get a good weld going.
    I'm using 0.6mm wire with my MIG instead of the 0.8mm that was delivered with it.


    Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
    You have to buy 3M Mar-Hyde too. It's honestly crazy what this stuff does to rust. It converts rust to an epoxy paintable coating. These vanagon bumper mounts were very rusted, I took a brass brush to them and knocked off everything loose and painted it in 2 coats. It's a very nice finish. I always thought rust converters were absolute trash until I tried this one. It has 100% changed my mind. Just slather it everywhere you have surface rust. I don't understand why POR-15 became so popular when this stuff is available.

    There are plenty of other brands that also offer a rust converter like the one you're naming. They all turn in to a black layer.
    Yeah, I also don't understand what's the big deal with POR though, I bought a can once, only tried using it one time but I'm not convinced.

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    I got a package straight from Brexit today. Euro grills and euro rear plate filler. Daughter insisted on being in the picture. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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  • Kershaw
    replied
    You have to buy 3M Mar-Hyde too. It's honestly crazy what this stuff does to rust. It converts rust to an epoxy paintable coating. These vanagon bumper mounts were very rusted, I took a brass brush to them and knocked off everything loose and painted it in 2 coats. It's a very nice finish. I always thought rust converters were absolute trash until I tried this one. It has 100% changed my mind. Just slather it everywhere you have surface rust. I don't understand why POR-15 became so popular when this stuff is available.

    Leave a comment:

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