Thanks for the link! I will be trying to lay the harness in place soon. I'll probably end up installing the driveshaft next. I'll lay out the engine harness shortly and mock up the intake manifold/intake and go from there. I need to try to use what I have vs throwing more money at it right now. If I need to trim the boot, that is no issue. I also have to decide if I want to run the 750il brake master cylinder and install the fc bbk.
I am indeed keeping ac. I will have both pusher (ac) and puller (rad). The 16" spal will be constant. AC will be switched like oem. Vegas is too damn hot to not have working ac.
I also seemed to have lost my 325' transmission crossbrace, I'm thinking I sold it with my m20 a while ago. Luckily I just picked up a replacement here from a local.
I ordered up a new e36 expansion tank hose to cut up for the reservoir and make a section to connect the waterpump hardline to core. Also got oem sway bar bushings to pair with the garagistic spacer.
cameras ready prepare to flash
Collapse
X
-
Coming along very nicely!
I don't know if that brake reservoir is going to work with the intake boot. I ended up using a remote mounted 2002 reservoir on the side of the engine bay. It also has the extra nipple for the clutch line. You'll also need the two 90's, grommets, and brake fluid hoses to the nipples if you go this route. They can be bought fairly cheap:
Store brake fluid securely with the ATE Brake Fluid Reservoir (part number 34321112399) for classic BMW models, including 2002, 2002tii, and 3.0CS. This reservoir supports effective braking system performance.
Also any reason you are going with a puller instead of a pusher fan? Are you saving AC? If you are removing AC you can turn the puller into a pusher by switching the leads. This will give you some more room up front for activities. I did this about two and half years ago without any issues.
Keep up the solid work!Leave a comment:
-
mounted up the radiator fan and aux electric fans. decided against using those ziptie-like mounts I was using before hand.
pretty simple stuff.
made some clearance by the crank pulley - it's mighty tight in that spot
the aux fan wasn't as simple. I flipped the brackets on the top and side. I cut/welded the bottom mount and the side bracket - everything fits pretty well with minimal work.
I started to mock up the remote mounted oil pressure sending unit - trying to figure out how to fit oil temp sensor...
trimmed the ricer red coolant hoses to fit, and added a coolant temp sensor to the lower line
more new r134a pieces installed
----
ended up taking some notes from a friend's (doodawesome) build. welded on some tabs for a bolt on support
ended up using 2" steel angle iron vs aluminum like he did. notched for extra fan clearance
He obviously used his for an intercooler support. but I decided to use it for additional mounting real estate for coolers. powersteering cooler mounted. Wish i got some 1/2" npt to 90 degree bends for it but I really don't want to spend anymore money on this setup. I'd rather save every penny for my oil cooler setup since it will probably run $600+ for the cooler, lines, oil filter cap with an fittings, lines and thermostat.
I lucked out and found a local e30 guy who just pulled his 24v ac lines - because.racecar. ended up getting them for free. badass! they bolted up, all lines got new o-rings, and cleaned out with brake cleaner and compressed air.
I put in an obd1 vanos solenoid and new o-rings for that and the cam position sensor while I was there. Next I ran the ps cooler and lines with new crush washers. kinda hard to see what's going on, but i had to take a picture as it'd never be this clean again!!
with leftover hose I made a replacement lower hose (low pressure) for my e36 m3. Mine blew off at the last parking lot event - the factory crimp fell a part and i fixed it by just adding a worm clamp. I noticed lately the hose must have been seeping, as occasionally I would have a drop of PS under the car. Anyways, I cutit a bit longer in length and included the factory restrictor in both cars - e30 is running an e36 m3 rack if I forgot to mention.
That's all for now. I got all the throttle body/intake manifold gaskets. Gotta figure out catch can configuration first.
made further modifications to the bracket. Decided last minute to get an oil cooler as well. One of those "while you're there" things I suppose. Found another "tru-cool" cooler that fit in the space available perfectly so I ordered it right away for fitment.
I cut some 1" aluminum angle stock, the cooler-mounting side was cut down to 1/2" and bolted to existing angle iron support. While picking up mounting hardware I found some 1/4" rubber washers that I sandwiched between the cooler and bracket.
cut some holes in the angle iron to help all cooling components breathe
and now i'm staring at a $178 order of -an fittings. I've made a huge mistake. LOL!! I also ordered some 90 degree fittings for the ps cooler.
Oh and while I was at the hardware store I grabbed some slightly longer grade 8 bolts for the motor mount arms. Turns out the e36 m3 riceland headers hit the subframe so I got the longtube headers most 24v swap guys run off ebay. It actually looks cheaper than the ricelands but they fit...so all is well.
Last edited by s14brent; 08-26-2020, 01:55 AM.Leave a comment:
-
I picked up an adequate tool box last month and finally got working on the car this past week!
Did some scrubbing of the trans tunnel...real nasty stuff
looks much better. the m20's leaky rear main seal sure made a mess down there!
QUESTION: I acquired a 750il brake master cylinder (25mm). I've been reading so many mixed reviews. I'll be running a FC brake upgrade.....would this be beneficial to me in addition? I'd have to bend my manual brake lines and make a "T" for an extra outlet.
Ended up flushing the trans fluid as best as I could before replacing the front input shaft seal. Replaced fluid with Redline d4 atf - same stuff I use in my e36 m3.
I finally started to piece together my r134a stuff. It's already in the mid 80's in Vegas, I don't know how I'll last without a/c here. I had to source a new ac compressor bracket, turns out a bolt was snapped off inside the one that came with this motor.
Rewind to Monday, I finally got the engine out of the corner of the garage and off the engine stand!
Ended up replacing the seal for the housing that holds the rear main seal previous gasket was paper, new one was metal. resealed the back part of the oil pan, used toyota fipg to seal it up! Also replaced rear main seak and pilot bearing with OEM. 23mm socket fits the pilot OD perfect for installation. I should have cleaned up the area a bit more before taking this.
I ordered a f1 (ebay) stage 3 sprung clutch and chromoly flywheel almost a year ago. Felt nice to finally get it out of its box, but 2 of the 8 flywheel bolts came with damaged threads. I cleaned it up with a m12x1.25 die and a drop of loctite upon installation.
I went to put on the pressure plate/clutch disc...and found out pressure plate bolts were not included...GREAT. I had to wait til this morning to pick up some m8-16-1.25 socket head cap bolts from a local hardware store. I really love how realoem lists the bolt size/length normally. I should have inspected the clutch/flywheel hardware on arrival. new bolts were under $2 so no big deal.
rebuilt starter bolted up – had a helluva time locating all the bolts since it’s been sitting around forever!!
All Buttoned up!
after a little persuasion....
and here's how I left it a few hours ago!!
will update soon hopefully. Need sleep and a gameplan for tackling the rest of this swap hopefully soon!!Last edited by s14brent; 08-27-2020, 05:35 AM.Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: