It's a pre-1/86 car, so I just switched the tach. Coding peg (could hardly call it a plug) is unchanged.
Thinking of things, does anyone know how this peg actually works? It looks like it pushes down some sort of switch, but I can't figure it out.
the boring but meticulous 2.7i
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agreed. I had the 3.73lsd in my 2.7i and it was a whole different car
*my bad, i didn't realize i was quoting the first page.
What coding plug are you using for the Dash?Last edited by Regnar75; 06-16-2016, 08:33 AM.Leave a comment:
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Hey guys, I've been away from r3v for a few months. Been busy finishing up my bachelor's degree.
Finally test fit the prototype of my cam sensor plate design -- perfect fit!
trigger wheel – it's mild steel but could easily be painted or plated – bolts right to the distributor rotor adapter

and the sensor mount itself. This is billet aluminum. Solid half inch of clearance between the fan and sensor, and the wire on the sensor is long enough to reach the plug bracket where the cyl ID sensor normally plugs in – so it looks very stock!

and finally, just marking out where I have to lengthen the M50NV harness for a better fit. spaghetti!

If there is enough interest in this cam sensor mount design, I may put together a group buy. Be warned though, CNC parts are quite expensive. I do have quite a few trigger wheels already made though, PM me if you want to buy one.Leave a comment:
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Sub'd. I'm itching to rebuild my motor and want to do a 2.7 bottom end at the same time. I would be in for a run of cam sensor platesLeave a comment:
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Well, I'm away from my e30 for January (home for Christmas) but I've been hard at work designing my camshaft position sensor mount. Made the first physical prototype today; messily cut out of foam core but the main objective was to make sure bolt holes line up, which they did, perfectly.
If this ends up working well and there is interest, I may be compelled to sell some. It's an uncomplicated design so it shouldn't be expensive.




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Aw thanks :)
Something to do with quench area ... the seta pistons are better matched to the 885 head; people generally do get a bit more horsepower out of seta builds. Digger would probably have something useful to say, I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination. No one would call a flat top low comp 2.7 totally optimal, but the people who call them gutless dogs either really messed something up or are relying on forum hearsay. A well-sorted flat top build is still good fun -- midrange torque is buttery and instantaneous.Originally posted by Das DelfinWhy do people hate on flat top pistons? From everything I read on 2.7 conversions, everyone said you have to use seta pistons because they match i pistons. Why would it matter?Leave a comment:
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my 4.10 reads just under 4k at 80 mph..
Nice 2.7 build. And nice engine compartment. Nice everything. Why do people hate on flat top pistons? From everything I read on 2.7 conversions, everyone said you have to use seta pistons because they match i pistons. Why would it matter?Leave a comment:
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Thanks!
Crappy 1st-3rd gear pull with the new S3.73 (but I suspect it's a 4.10)
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Nice interior! And ya 3d involves more geometric complexity.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
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Nice! I've just been using sketchup to mess around with designs. Next step is to get some cheap plastic prototypes so I can test fitment, and if that's all good I'll try to get it made out of something better. Maybe Aluminum, but Acetal also seems like a good material. I'm making it so the whole kit can be cut out of one 6"x12" sheet of material to keep costs down; seems like 2d designs are a whole lot cheaper to produce. Still not sure whether to have the whole rotor made of steel, or something else with a ferrous insert for the trigger contact.
Bonus interior shot ... my pacific blue vinyl interior. Not the most desirable but it's in decent shape :)
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