more maintenance
So a few weekends ago I came across an interesting situation: I could not turn the key past position II. Buddy came by and towed me home.
The next morning I looked in the manual for any clues as to what to do and aside from inserting the wire/pin trick in the hole on the face of the lock cylinder face, there was nothing. Using the wire would not help me as I could only rotate the key 45 degrees, not the needed 60.
Off to the junk yard...picked up an entire 'module': the ignition bracket, the lock, key....all of it for $45.00
Dropped it off at a reputable locksmith with one of my original keys and he matched it. $35.00
Went to the dealer and bought a ignition module screw with shear-away head: $10.00
(sorry for the blurry)
Later that evening it was time to swap out the entire thing:
Remove everything to gain access: the plastic cover under the steering column, the lower plastic cover that wraps around the steering column itself. Carefully un-clip all of the plugs that are mounted on the steering column shaft.
Also, another thing to note, is the way the steering column shaft is attached: via a slotted clip, a washer and a spring. The clip you can remove with a screw driver, but you will have to work at it carefully so as not to slip and stab yourself in the leg, or damage the splines on the steering column shaft.
Once the circlip is removed, the washer will pull out, and the spring will slide out.
Look up at the ignition module:
...And locate the tamper-proof screw to be removed:
Use a drill bit and an easy-out to remove that screw:
Using the easyout should not be too complicated since the screw never gets really tight in there. The head shears away before you even start to think about torquing down on it.
Re-assembly is pretty straight forward. The only thing to be careful of is the screws of the wiper and signal stalks. The LONGER screw is for holding on the cruise control module on the bracket through the wiper module.
This should take about an hour to do.
Hope this helps. :)
So a few weekends ago I came across an interesting situation: I could not turn the key past position II. Buddy came by and towed me home.
The next morning I looked in the manual for any clues as to what to do and aside from inserting the wire/pin trick in the hole on the face of the lock cylinder face, there was nothing. Using the wire would not help me as I could only rotate the key 45 degrees, not the needed 60.
Off to the junk yard...picked up an entire 'module': the ignition bracket, the lock, key....all of it for $45.00
Dropped it off at a reputable locksmith with one of my original keys and he matched it. $35.00
Went to the dealer and bought a ignition module screw with shear-away head: $10.00
(sorry for the blurry)
Later that evening it was time to swap out the entire thing:
Remove everything to gain access: the plastic cover under the steering column, the lower plastic cover that wraps around the steering column itself. Carefully un-clip all of the plugs that are mounted on the steering column shaft.
Also, another thing to note, is the way the steering column shaft is attached: via a slotted clip, a washer and a spring. The clip you can remove with a screw driver, but you will have to work at it carefully so as not to slip and stab yourself in the leg, or damage the splines on the steering column shaft.
Once the circlip is removed, the washer will pull out, and the spring will slide out.
Look up at the ignition module:
...And locate the tamper-proof screw to be removed:
Use a drill bit and an easy-out to remove that screw:
Using the easyout should not be too complicated since the screw never gets really tight in there. The head shears away before you even start to think about torquing down on it.
Re-assembly is pretty straight forward. The only thing to be careful of is the screws of the wiper and signal stalks. The LONGER screw is for holding on the cruise control module on the bracket through the wiper module.
This should take about an hour to do.
Hope this helps. :)
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