Delanoso's 2.9L Build

[Delanoso]

An update for anyone who's interested:

After taking about a year off from engine tuning to do this

I finally found a good tuner in Atlanta that knew Megasquirt and to some extent e30s. That's 181 on a Mustang Dyno so conservatively 195-ish on a Dynojet and 215 at the crank? I'm OK with that.



One more for eye candy:

[Delanoso]

Yeah, I'll probably end up going to ITBs eventually.

I'm sorry. You are looking for the signal coming FROM the ECU. The yellow wire going into the dash terminates at the cluster and is expecting a signal, not sending one. Pin # 6 on the ECU connector is tach #32 is the eco gauge. So, I usually use a exacto blade, or test pin to pierce the wires and test for continuity to the back of the ECU connector.

Again, you have an early model and those 3 wires are ran through the c101 on later cars. So, you need to find the wire that goes from pin #32 on the ECU connector to C101 and move that to the yellow wire to the yellow wire in the white 3 pin female like you did the tach.

I have continuity between the cluster C1 pin 11 and the ECU pin 32 but still no signal. Is there a TunerStudio setting to turn on that signal like the Tach?

[ForcedFirebird]

Also, no ITBs yet, still on the stock intake. Honestly, I'm not sure ITBs would do much on the head I have. Pretty sure it's the bottleneck not the intake.

Dropbox Folder

ITB's on an otherwise stock motor will pick up 18-20%, so that will transfer to the stroker ;)

For some reason, I thought you already had the throttle installed. :/ Lost my big HDD, so am slowly rebuilding my library and software for the new Toughbook. Might take me a bit to get to it. :/

[Delanoso]

I might still go ITBs but for now I'm saving for the body work and paint. Then brakes upgrades. . . We'll get back to the engine eventually.

[digger]

Links to a log file and the current tune. John, I had a guy make some adjustments to this on a dyno but it should be pretty similar to the original tune you gave me. It feels really good except for the tip in thing. I'd be afraid to change much unless it was back on a dyno. I looked at the AE settings but I'm not sure I understand enough of what's there to make intelligent adjustments. If I read it correctly, it's set to a 50/50 MAP-TPS blend. I can't tell if it's a lot of either or too little. That's what I was hoping to see in the log. Same as all the threads I see with this problem regardless of the engine, when you hit the throttle it spikes lean and then rich. The result is a momentary chug. If I'm cruising over 2600 there's no hesitation though.

Also, no ITBs yet, still on the stock intake. Honestly, I'm not sure ITBs would do much on the head I have. Pretty sure it's the bottleneck not the intake.

Dropbox Folder

it'll work on an any 885 head, the stock runner kills what little flow capability the head has due to all the bends and misalignment. almost a guaranteed 20-30whp

[Delanoso]

Links to a log file and the current tune. John, I had a guy make some adjustments to this on a dyno but it should be pretty similar to the original tune you gave me. It feels really good except for the tip in thing. I'd be afraid to change much unless it was back on a dyno. I looked at the AE settings but I'm not sure I understand enough of what's there to make intelligent adjustments. If I read it correctly, it's set to a 50/50 MAP-TPS blend. I can't tell if it's a lot of either or too little. That's what I was hoping to see in the log. Same as all the threads I see with this problem regardless of the engine, when you hit the throttle it spikes lean and then rich. The result is a momentary chug. If I'm cruising over 2600 there's no hesitation though.

Also, no ITBs yet, still on the stock intake. Honestly, I'm not sure ITBs would do much on the head I have. Pretty sure it's the bottleneck not the intake.

Dropbox Folder

[ForcedFirebird]

OK *that* is information I can work with! Thank you sir!

When I find time, I'm planning on posting a log with my tune. I have a small but annoying tip in issue that I think you or one of the other experienced guys should be able to spot.

Check/adjust your AE. The ITB's are touchy with transitions. It's almost like you need to compromise between cruise and power in a few areas. Sometimes changing resolution helps on the maps, in the areas that are wonky, "zoom in" to smooth things out. I would need to look back at the files, but you can use the dual map setup and get even more if need be.

[Delanoso]

OK *that* is information I can work with! Thank you sir!

When I find time, I'm planning on posting a log with my tune. I have a small but annoying tip in issue that I think you or one of the other experienced guys should be able to spot.

[ForcedFirebird]

I'm sorry. You are looking for the signal coming FROM the ECU. The yellow wire going into the dash terminates at the cluster and is expecting a signal, not sending one. Pin # 6 on the ECU connector is tach #32 is the eco gauge. So, I usually use a exacto blade, or test pin to pierce the wires and test for continuity to the back of the ECU connector.

Again, you have an early model and those 3 wires are ran through the c101 on later cars. So, you need to find the wire that goes from pin #32 on the ECU connector to C101 and move that to the yellow wire to the yellow wire in the white 3 pin female like you did the tach.

To add: If you want the drive away protection to function (OBC code), put the green wire to pin # 38.

[Delanoso]

I tried AC and DC and got nothing to speak of - what kind of values would I be looking for? Fractions of a volt at idle?

Also, forgot mention, I got my MSPNP from DIYAutotine.

[ForcedFirebird]

Yes, it's PWM, but you can use a DMM set to A/C to at least tell if there's any signal.

[Delanoso]

I see the plug. The black wire is cut so we got that moved to the proper location - my tach works. I have no signal on the yellow wire. By A/C did you actually mean an alternating current signal?

[ForcedFirebird]

Had to look back at the first post to see if you have an early model. Since you do, the tach, OBC lockout, and the eco gauge all run through a white plug next to the ECU in the glove box. Black is tach, green is OBC ignition lock, yellow is the eco gauge.

Who's MS box did you buy? DIY and Whodwho's are a little different from one another, but either way the yellow wire needs signal - maybe start by checking for A/C on the yellow with car running.

[Delanoso]

New gauge cluster from Bavarian Restoration!

My econometer doesn't work and neither do the economy functions in the OBC. The old gauge barely had tach and spedo readings. Greg at Bavarian Restoration says I'm missing a signal from Megasquirt. Can anyone direct me to some details on that? Not finding anything on my own that really makes sense.

[digger]

No real power to be gained with fuel except maybe 2-3k where it should be no richer than 13

as for how much more power it depends what timing is like at moment and how optimal