No announcement yet.

Early model 325e Rustoration

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Bottom line is everything you’ve shown is fixable. Just need to decide if you want to devote the time.


      Originally posted by Sunnyledge View Post
      I had doubts about my project after discovering the extent of the rust and all the issues that needed to address. I also started my project with no prior MIG welding experience. I spent 6 month checking out other peoples projects and I found this site really helpful The best advice I got was always make a template and don’t think you need to always make the patch in one panel. I think this was the first repair I did on my car. It doesn’t need to be pretty, just structurally sound.
      Thank you for the link and pics. My repair areas look almost identical to yours.

      I am taking a break from working on the front rust areas. The entire dash needs pulled so I can assess the firewall rust and to get better access to fix the corners.

      The rear subframe and diff looked to be in rough shape. There was rust scaling peeling off on the diff housing and the arms were covered in surface rust. All the bushings were deteriorated as well. I decided it needed to be dropped and dealt with.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	rear subframe off.jpg
Views:	227
Size:	79.2 KB
ID:	9957645

      I had to tap the subframe bushings with a 5/8" tap and thread in bolts. It only took a couple taps with a hammer to free each side after that. Unfortunately the driver's side ebrake cable was too worn to stop the hub from spinning and I ended up rounding a couple of the T50 torx bolts trying to remove the axle. Anyone have any suggestions on removing an axle with it disconnected from the vehicle and having rounded bolts?

      Anyways, I broke down the subframe assembly to start cleaning it up and to get it read for new bushings to be installed. In the process I dumped out at least 1/2lb of acorn shells from inside the cross member. The PO wast've had some very hungry mice in his barn because this thing was packed tight.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	rear sub acorns.jpg
Views:	218
Size:	68.0 KB
ID:	9957646

      Anyways, that's where the car currently stands. The wire wheel on my angle grinder is going to get a workout this week. I'll also use this time to clean up the rear undercarriage, replace the sway bar and bushings, and weld in any new brackets that may be too far gone. I've been watching videos from 'Restore It' and 'Soup Classic Motoring' on youtube to also stay motivated.


        Great job in saving this BMW. I don't know if you found the source of the trunk compartment leak but on my 1984 BMW 325e, all the water was coming from the tail light assembly. The black foam gasket (on both lights) was dried out and cracked.


          It's been awhile since I've posted any sort of update. My real job has been taking up most of my time these past few weeks, so I haven't made any significant progress. I'm still wrestling with rust removal on the rear body and rear subframe. I did, however, start fantasizing about new wheels. Unfortunately there isn't anything for sale near me in 4x100 bolt pattern that isn't Honda fitment.

          .... But I have some square 16x7 ET46 Z3 wheels sitting in my garage leftover from a car I sold on BaT. I was thinking about getting some 72.6mm bore -> 57.1mm bore, 4x100 -> 5x120, 18mm wheel adapters. That would put the final offset around ET28, which might still be a *little* high. New tires would be required. Thoughts???

          Click image for larger version

Name:	z3 wheels.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	79.9 KB
ID:	9961268

          The weekend is supposed to be nice, so hoping to make some significant progress. More to come.