My 325iC Body/Paint Project

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  • N2MYE30
    replied
    Sounds like a deal but Ive gotta drive mine more than 3K miles just for the fun factor. No deductable is killer though.

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  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    Update: Hagerty rejected covering my car because the deer hit happened within 3 years. Went with American Motorists Group, have it covered for $9,000, only $213 a year. 3000 mile limit/year. No deductible. Sweet!

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  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    Thank you!

    FYI i just put classic car insurance on it from Hagerty. Will cost me $280 a year for $9,000 coverage. 3,000 mile limit/year. I was pretty happy with that.

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  • napabavarian
    replied
    Amazing transformation! I've been thinking of microsuede interior, perhaps I'll do that with my extra cabbie interior and see how it comes out.

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  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    Originally posted by KrautRocket
    Wow, I just read all 19 pages! Awesome resto brother, pure sex!!! Now I have even more inspiration for my poor lachssilber '88 cabrio project. How much were the seat covers out of curiosity?
    Aren't seat covers, its actually replacing the upholstery. About $1000 including the suede and rear headrests. I think Kevin's base price is around 7-800 bucks.
    Thanks for the compliments!

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  • KrautRocket
    replied
    Wow, I just read all 19 pages! Awesome resto brother, pure sex!!! Now I have even more inspiration for my poor lachssilber '88 cabrio project. How much were the seat covers out of curiosity?

    Leave a comment:


  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    Originally posted by flyboyx
    put the car up on jackstands. that won't hurt anything. very nice by the way. you don't have any pics of the engine bay posted on your thread? if you still have cosmoline all over your engine, go have it steam cleaned and wax the red parts. it will look killer for now until you do your swap.

    i am in the process of trying to decide if i want to get a new headliner for my top or just reglue the original one. do you mind if i ask the price of that custom headliner? sorry to be nosy.

    that photo about 4 pages back where your car is lowered with sideskirts....is that a photoshop? anyway, i really like that look. i am a big fan of shadowline trim
    I was actually thinking of putting blocks of wood under the control arms, directly under the ball joints. This way neither the shocks OR tires are ruined. Or maybe just blocks at jack points that share the load with the tires.
    You'll have to ask Kevin on the headliner... He charged me at cost on the headliner since I bought the whole kit from him. Around 200.

    Yep that pic is pshop.

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  • flyboyx
    replied
    put the car up on jackstands. that won't hurt anything. very nice by the way. you don't have any pics of the engine bay posted on your thread? if you still have cosmoline all over your engine, go have it steam cleaned and wax the red parts. it will look killer for now until you do your swap.

    i am in the process of trying to decide if i want to get a new headliner for my top or just reglue the original one. do you mind if i ask the price of that custom headliner? sorry to be nosy.

    that photo about 4 pages back where your car is lowered with sideskirts....is that a photoshop? anyway, i really like that look. i am a big fan of shadowline trim

    Leave a comment:


  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    Originally posted by E30 F34R
    In your sig it says finished? still needs a drop BAD.
    ...and an S50, and alpina wheels, and 5 spd, and and and... read the thread. FINISHED for now!

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  • F34R
    replied
    In your sig it says finished? still needs a drop BAD.

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  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    Well the car goes into storage in the next couple days. Debating whether to put on jackstands or over inflate the tires. heard bad/good on both. Your thoughts?

    Oh yeah, 1000th post!

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  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    Originally posted by 87e30
    Very nice looking car.

    You an accountant by chance?
    Engineering manager for orthopedic implants.
    Last edited by bimmerboy12; 12-06-2010, 08:29 AM.

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  • 87e30
    replied
    Very nice looking car.

    You an accountant by chance?

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  • Erik
    replied
    Wow. This is definitely the most impressive restoration I've seen on here. I love the top. I would absolutely love to do that for our hardtop. Just wow.

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  • bimmerboy12
    replied
    Hey guys since I have had a couple people ask for more details on the headliner installation, I will copy/paste my last email here...

    After completely restoring my car inside and out, this was intimidating since it was new territory for me. The end product is absolutely amazing. Friends and family come to see the results of the finished car and comment on the incredible interior and headliner… its way better than OEM. The sewn seams turned out perfect, transitioning from the corner of the C-Pillar right to the corner of the window. The material was perfect for the application, since it needs to be stretchy to conform to the curves of the inside of the top.
    • I carefully removed the grey material and sent it to Kevin to use as a template.
    • Put the top upside down on sawhorses with plenty of padding/foam so as not to “buff” the newly painted top
    • There was no foam, but a lot of gritty material that may have been foam at one time. I scraped the fiberglass and made sure the surface was clean.
    • I did not remove any trim, just the four oh shit handles
    • I hung the material over the shower curtain, put the shower on hot and steamed it for about a half hour to get the bad wrinkles out
    • Spread the material out and carefully planned how to attack it. Started in the pillars on either side of the back window as these would be most difficult
    • Used 3M headliner spray glue from WalMart… DON’T buy the big can of general adhesive from autozone or advance that says “works for headliners”. Only the can specifically for headliners. It’s a small brown can with yellow letters and costs around 5 bucks. I used 4 cans.
    • I used packing tape to mask off all the edges and glass so overspray didn’t get on everything
    • Spray in zones, like C pillars first. Spray in rows completely covering, using the “H” selection on the spray nozzle
    • Wait 10 minutes. Spray in rows 90 degrees to the previous rows.
    • Wait 10 minutes. Start to apply the material beginning at one end and working your way down. If you get a wrinkle pull it up immediately and you may be able to save it, but once it goes down, its pretty much stuck there.
    • Keep working your way towards the front of the top. I sprayed the entire roof at once, which was probably borderline too much. I had my wife come out and hold the material tight, elevated, while I worked my way to the front smoothing it in.
    • Cut all the excess, very carefully, and tuck in the edges to the trim. I used a plastic putty knife and in some cases a small screwdriver.
    • Let it sit for 24 hours
    • Take pictures and show all your friends.

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