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Budget M42 turbo build

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    I think I may have missed this but is your turbo oil and water cooled ?

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  • e304me
    replied
    At 10psi I think you will be making more power than a swapped car! If they are stock at least. And yes the boost in power is and still lightweight is great

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  • gearheadE30
    replied
    yeah, its awesome :). This thing is going to be a riot to drive when all the tuning is done. No, it won't have the power of a swapped car or anything, but I think it'll be a good balance of power and handling for a college kid hah.

    Yeah, the turbo is divided entry.

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  • BUDNUNTA
    replied
    Looking Good
    I bet it feels great to finally get a taste of that boost

    Is your turbo divided entry?

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  • gearheadE30
    replied
    Okay, pics:









    As you can see, the WG piping is very, very temporary. That is supposedly being taken care of right now. The wastegate is circulated back into the exhaust, which, until I save up some more money, is 2.5" to the end of the center section and 2.25" from there to the back.

    I did have one rather scary moment due to too much oil in the pan, which caused crank splash bad enough for oil to get into the #1 cylinder. I thought I had a blown HG and towed it home, but eventually discovered the problem. I have an oil catch can hooked up to both the the PCV valve and the turbo drain to prevent hydrolock in the pipe, and the can is filling up rather rapidly, so I need to figure out what to do with that turbo drain...

    The turbo also has a tiny bit of oil blow-by into the intake, but it is really minimal. I'll just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't get worse.

    I had to remote-mount the oil feed adapter because the vibration from it hanging off the side of the engine with the pressure sender attached to it eventually cracked one of the L fittings, and the last thing I want is a turbo with no oil feed.

    I also need to work out a bracket to support the exhaust at the downpipe, but I think that is being done at the same time as the WG piping.

    I have a T3 heatshield for the hot side of the turbo, so what should help with underhood temps, and I have some silicone couplers from siliconeintakes.com going in to replace the crappy rubber blue ones from ebay. The ebay couplers also seem to have a tendency to pop off under boost.

    The LC1 issue has now been remedied. The main controller died, and even though it was out of warranty, Innovate sent me a new one, no questions asked. Even if their quality could use some help, at least their service is good.

    So first order of business when I get the car to Purdue will be to tune AFRs and get ignition set. Right now I have fuel and spark cut set so I never go above 1 psi, so I'll just steadily creep up on the goal of 7.5 psi for now, and then up it to 10psi once everything is reliable and sorted. At some point, I may also be swapping in a med-case 373 lsd, because I get the feeling that my gearing is going to be wayyyy too short. Plus I don't know how well the small case diff can handle the power.

    Oh, and the turbo comes on pretty strong right at 3000 RPM, which, for an aftermarket turbo install, I'm thrilled with :)

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  • gearheadE30
    replied
    haha sorry guys. It's all done and running and such, just gotta hunt down bugs and finalize some bits here and there (i.e. the piping situation). I just moved to college as of the 17th and the car is still back home, but it'll be up here in a few weeks so I can continue working on it. Gotta get some stuff done now, but I'll probly post an update in a half hour or something.

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  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    shit by the time we get an update my turbo m42 will be done haha

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  • e304me
    replied
    Yeah whats going on with this thing

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  • TooTall90
    replied
    updates? pics?

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  • e304me
    replied
    I idle around 900 or 1000 with the stock computer and ICV.

    So I got the knocklite hooked up and it seems alright. It doesnt seem very good at detecting light load knocks but I was getting the slight knock light at around redline. I thought it was just too sensitive but I tried dialing some timing back and it went away. Now I only have 8 degrees of timing near redline! damn DASC

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  • Schnitzer318is
    replied
    I'm only at ~15hg on my gauge at warm idle. I idle at 1050-1100 though. Idles just fine for me though where it's at so I'm not worried about changing it.

    What RPM do you have your idle at? Are you running an ICV?

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  • e304me
    replied
    Oh man seems like my vacuum is pretty low:sad:

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  • BUDNUNTA
    replied
    pics?

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  • gearheadE30
    replied
    Okay, I checked again to be sure. With the engine warm, the boost gauge is between 18 and 20 in Hg, and the computer shows about 40 kpa at idle. I may be switching because I've been hearing a lot of bad stuff about the LC1 now that I have it, heh. It worked fine until now...

    Eventually I may get a knock mic, but it wasn't that hard for me to get rid of knock with an NA engine and no mic, so we'll see how this goes. My exhaust is actually pretty quiet-turbo, 2.5" ID, magnaflow cat, 20" glasspack, magnaflow 11265 muffler. I like the sleeper-ness.

    The coil pack wires are shielded to avoid electrical noise. The outer sheath is grounded at one end for that purpose.

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  • e304me
    replied
    Oh 0 vacuum is round 100kpa. So yours and mine is about the same

    wait i dont think thats right, i dont know
    Last edited by e304me; 07-31-2010, 07:14 PM.

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