Charley's 325 Touring

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  • Charley
    replied
    Originally posted by cbouchez
    so the rear sway bar bracket had to be modify? I'm getting the same rear sway bar...

    I'm getting a lot of maintenance done to it first. I'm hoping that in the next moth H&R cup kit is going in.

    Great job man!
    Its the flange that sits in the trunk that needs to be modded but only
    if you have a touring.

    Now I'm starting to wonder if the bracket+bolts will be too thick to be
    able to install the trim back on. Might have to make some new thinner
    flanges and buy some bolts with lower heads.

    Originally posted by 325ix
    It looks great, but I think your yellow fog colors clash with the orange of the blinkers. Some smoked blinkers may look good.
    Haven't noticed till you mentionned it... I have some spares around
    Might try to smoke a set and try them out.

    Originally posted by TrentW
    I feel your pain on those e-brake fittings. The trick is to cut the cable off and drill them out.

    Now get that subframe installed. If I can do it by myself you can too!
    That would have been another way to do it.

    Originally posted by samiam3356
    Might want to notch those bushings so your can get to that outside bolt easier and make adjustments easier.
    Should I just cut the bushing even with the subframe?

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  • samiam3356
    replied
    Might want to notch those bushings so your can get to that outside bolt easier and make adjustments easier.

    Leave a comment:


  • TrentW
    replied
    I feel your pain on those e-brake fittings. The trick is to cut the cable off and drill them out.

    Now get that subframe installed. If I can do it by myself you can too!

    Leave a comment:


  • 325ix
    replied
    It looks great, but I think your yellow fog colors clash with the orange of the blinkers. Some smoked blinkers may look good.

    Leave a comment:


  • e30s50dan
    replied
    Sweet. Keep it up. (that's what she said)!

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  • BrewCity11
    replied
    Great work. Looking forward to more!

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  • cbouchez
    replied
    so the rear sway bar bracket had to be modify? I'm getting the same rear sway bar...

    I'm getting a lot of maintenance done to it first. I'm hoping that in the next moth H&R cup kit is going in.

    Great job man!

    Leave a comment:


  • Charley
    replied
    Only had one day to work on the car this week but a few things got done.

    -Prep/painted the subframe and trailing arms
    -Installed bushings
    -Installed rear sway
    -Removed the old e-brake cables
    -Installed studs on the rear hubs

    Pictures:

    Finished and ready to go in. Waiting for help to put it back in. Did it alone
    once and not doing it again.

    Notice the reinforced sway tabs and camber/toe correction kit.
    Also notice that the trailing arms have different brake line bracket.



    Street 80A AKG subframe bushings. I flipped them to raise the subframe
    a little (approximatively 4mm) will help to correct a bit of camber and
    it was free.(not the bushings..flipping them). Diff also has a 80A bushing

    Also notice how close the adjuster is...I can easily get a wrench on it now
    but I'm wondering if the bushing will compress once installed.


    Used 75D AKG bushings for the trailing arms. The "idea" is that the
    trailling arms won't loose there camber/toe adjustments even on heavy
    loads. Those are then mounted on the subframe which is on 80A bushings
    so if the back end wants to move it will move all together.

    Also when installing those don't press them in with the sleeve inside or
    the bushing will never be flush no matter (at least for me) you press
    them.


    With the sleeve removed it is easy to press them all the way in,then
    drive the sleeve in. (blurry pic I know, phone pics)


    These took me about 1 hour to get them off the car. they are the ends of
    the ebrake cable where they meet the body... A LOT of cursing, pb blaster
    and heat finally worked. What a pain that was.


    Also installed my rear IE 22mm sway. I was still running the stock rear
    sway.

    Installation was easier the second time (these were on my 318is before)
    And now that I'm writing this I just rememberer that I did not greased
    them .


    Also I think this is the first time that the fact that the car is a touring is
    a problem. Its not a big problem but it is the first time I have to modify
    something.

    This drilled piece of metal (black):


    Is supposed to be under those bolts, now there is a stud RIGHT in the
    middle that is there to hold the piece interior trim (2 pics down).
    So I need to modify the bracket didn't had time to do it.




    What took the most of my day was prepping and painting the
    subframe and the trailing arms.

    Also I was supposed to have my calipers back (powdercoated) but
    I had to replace the rear left one. More delay... luckily the shop
    found one for cheap to replace it. should have them on Friday.

    Charley

    Leave a comment:


  • cbouchez
    replied
    It looks great! I had the same problem with the rear wiper but I ended up finding it at part store.

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  • Charley
    replied
    Updates for this week.

    First couldn't do much since I am still waiting on parts that are in the mail
    or that are not in the mail due to lack of funds.

    Started with Laminex for the fogs. Also swapped in a beat up pair
    of black brake ducts. I like the black ducts more than the color matched
    ones. At least with the yellow fogs and smoked headlights.



    I then reinstalled the rear wiper motor and the brand new bushing/arm/hardware. The PO had removed
    it because it looked better :-? ... Well this car is a summer only car but is used as a dd so a rear wiper is usefull.
    Even if the rear window doesn't get that dirty.

    It was easy to reinstall but I still need to run a need hose for the washer
    fluid. Also need an actual wiper blade (oem is NLA)




    Then started what took an entire afternoon for what should have taken
    30 minutes top.



    They are the BimmerWorld 75mm stud kit. They were easy to install BUT
    the machining on the ends where you use an allen key to tighten them was not consistent at all some were super tight
    (had to trouble to get the key in) others were normal and two out of the 10 I installed were so loose that I thought they were stripped.
    I used double nut method for those two.

    Once installed they are great!

    Also what took so long is that one of the hub had one hole that was cross threaded and I had to find a M12x1.5 tap.
    And getting that tap ended in a journey across the city. 5 shops later I finally found someone that had a kit in stock.
    (I was also looking for a M7x1.0 tap that no one had either
    ordered that one)



    I did do something that could have been a problem. I had installed the other studs first. The handle of the tool was barely clearing the studs.

    Also I guess the reason the M12x1.5 tap is so rare is because its made
    in Australia!



    Also a pic of the two vacuum ports that I had to plug because I deleted
    the booster. The fittings were "L" fittings that I cut and filled with JB weld
    then I JB welded them back in there spot. (the fitting were pressed fitted
    when the car came out of the factory but were not anymore so I fixed a vacuum leak at the same time!)



    I also polished the lip on one of my ACT. The lip was quite pitted. I bought them from Lee (Massive) who used them on his track car.
    I used 400/600/800/1000/1500/2000 and I it did a better job than
    I thought it would. Now I think I'll paint the centers something similar
    to nogaro and keep the lip polished. I also need a 5mm spacer to clear
    the studs so I can install the center caps.





    I also hate to polish wheels and the fact that I still have 4 others to do
    is kind of depressing.

    Also my calipers are officially at the shop (UNIX) doing the powdercoat and I'm
    also having the last welds needed on the subframe and trailing arms done
    as well
    Now I'm back at either waiting for parts or waiting for money to order more parts...

    Charley

    Leave a comment:


  • x17x
    replied
    wow...nice build....well documented....i want those bbs...lol....

    Leave a comment:


  • Charley
    replied
    It's time to start updating this thread again. School is over and I now
    have time to work on the car again.

    Installed the new ellips


    Now that I have installed darker lights, I think I going to paint the brake
    ducts black to "match". I'll test fit one of the spares soon.

    Installed the front 5lug. Aluminum control arms were part of the deal but
    on one of them had its boots ripped(I knew that when I purchased it)
    Couldn't find replacement rubber one so I picked up some Energy poly
    boots. They were easy to install but don't have anything holding them in
    other than being jammed between to parts.



    I did have a WTF moment when I tried to mount a wheel only to realize
    that it wasn't sitting on the hub correctly... I can be so dumb sometimes
    that I forgot to install the rotor first... It was a quick fix...

    I also deleted the power steering. I think that it was leaking from every
    possible place it could leak from.

    I followed the instructions of this DIY: http://flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

    The DIY is for a miata steering rack but its exactly the same on an e30.
    I completely disassembled the rack to remove the piston. It was easier
    than I thought it would be. I don't have a picture of the finished product
    but it's just a rack with no more lines on it.

    Then I redid the brake lines to fit the new location of the master cylinder.
    (Massive Booster delete kit). I had forgot how much I hate to do brake
    lines. I also removed about 3" from the clutch line.

    Also:
    -New throttle cable
    -Plugged the 2 port on the throttle body where the lines
    from the booster plug in.
    -Plugged the unused port on the intake elbow with a huge bolt
    still need to find a suitable replacement.
    -Quickly cleaned the mess that the PS leaks did

    Missing in this pic: Booster and PS reservoir


    It doesn't really show but the ABS is removed as well


    Cellphone pics are not great but the cellphone can fit in places a
    regular camera wouldn't. You can see I used the third port on the
    master.


    After removing about 1/4" of oily dirt the engine arms looks like aluminum again. Still need to do the side of the engine/oilpan.


    Also disassembled the M3 calipers I have solid brass bushing for the 4 calipers.
    And new SS pistons for the front
    They are gone to the powder-coater for now
    And of course the last bleed valve I removed snapped in the caliper...



    And also a friend called me to ask me what I was doing in town the other
    day. I was like I'm not in town at all why do you think I am? He sent me
    this picture:


    Look at that another touring in Quebec city! looks to be the same color
    as well. It does look beat up...did not get to see it myself.

    Not much will be done till next Monday, I'll be working close to 60hrs
    in the next 5 days...

    I can't wait to drive this thing it's been up on stands since November now.
    I hope to be done within 3 weeks but the stupid Canada post strike doesn't help me either.

    I also NEED a drive shaft so if anyone local has one it be great!

    Charley

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  • Charley
    replied
    Originally posted by cbouchez
    Amazing job man! I wish I had an E30 Touring.... Keep it up.

    Subscribed
    Thanks

    Originally posted by TrentW
    I appreciate your build documentation sir. The Red Bull Crashed Ice event looks pretty wild also.
    The Crashed Ice is bonkers!



    Also test fitted the caps to compare them.





    And if you don't use the spacers the caps will be recessed like so:

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  • TrentW
    replied
    I appreciate your build documentation sir. The Red Bull Crashed Ice event looks pretty wild also.

    Leave a comment:


  • cbouchez
    replied
    Amazing job man! I wish I had an E30 Touring.... Keep it up.

    Subscribed

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