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I think I have the exact same steering hub adaptor as you. I believe it only has a single black wire coming out the base right? Any pictures of how you rigged up the other wire for the horn? I was told to just jam it between the wheel and hub.
Kish, the 318 is STILL being.. rebuilt, that's why you haven't seen us at the track.
I don't know if it'll be with this or the other, but we'll be back in October!
gearhead, thanks!
Evilnickwong: correct, but I would not jam it there, I cleaned and soldered the other to the 'side' you see there. Pictures will unfortunately have to wait, I'm 4500 mi from the car!
Hmm your photos on pg2 are kinda small, but I'm guessing you mean soldered to the inner surface of the hub? I think I get it, but well, if you post a pic when you can, I'd appreciate it too. :D
Kish, the 318 is STILL being.. rebuilt, that's why you haven't seen us at the track.
I don't know if it'll be with this or the other, but we'll be back in October!
gearhead, thanks!
Evilnickwong: correct, but I would not jam it there, I cleaned and soldered the other to the 'side' you see there. Pictures will unfortunately have to wait, I'm 4500 mi from the car!
pocono or lightning or both? I should be at both.
'12 F30 328i Sport Line '91 SpecE30 #523
'00 Ford F-350 Dually Tow Vehicle
BMWCCA #360858 NASA #128290
Trent - the seats were originarily tan. The dye is applied similarly to the Leatherique system:
1. Soak in 'soffener' oil until the leather stops absorbing, plastic wrap, leave alone 24 hours
2. Pass with dry rag then pass with cleaner.
3. Repeat 1 & 2 from 3 to 5 times, depending on leather
3b. Before each soffener step after the first and immediately before (4) below leather gets a brush with fine steel wool. Vinyl gets a pass with 400 grit sandpaper before (4) also
4. When done, wipe down with acetone carefully
5. Lay down first wet coat with foam brush, crisscross pattern
6. Wait ~10 min
7. Lay down second less-wet coat with foam brush, same as above
8. Wait ~30 min
9. Lay down 2-4 coats of dye with compressor & HVLP detail gun, waiting until the previous coat looks dry before putting on the next one
10. Put part in the shade and leave alone for 2-7 days. 7 better than 2.
11. LIGHTLY pass with Magic Eraser to get excess dye off
12. Ideally, cover with tarp and leave alone for three months (no, I am not kidding)
13. Now that the dye has fully cured, use and enjoy. After 180 days from colouring, use Zymol treat/Soffener oil/etc to treat leather
You can install the stuff in the car between 11 and 12 but you really should not use the items for 60-90 days for best adhesion. When installing, lightly coat areas which will rub against each other with carnauba wax (I use Zymol because that's what goes on my cars) to prevent possible adhesion.
For vinyl & plastic, clean with decent car soap instead of 1-3 and wipe with isopropyl alcohol solute 50-70% INSTEAD OF acetone at 4. For vinyl and plastic that will see a lot of contact, we tried clearcoating with 2 light coats of SEM 13023 low luster urethane clear. It seems to adhere well to the polymer base, but of course I can't speak as to durability yet, save to mention that a few handling accidents did not mar the coating, so normal use in a car should be OK.
Blunt thanks! Lovely ms. Amanda was actually the one doing most of the interior, I just do the HVLP spraying. However, as the car sits now she can't actually drive it, the 'stage 2' spec clutch with E30 stock cylinders is ... heavy.
Mr. E30 & others: it'll get even more red, more pictures coming later today.
Edit: added sanding step that I forgot before
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Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail me now.
yert, yes indeed, your car! Thanks for taking the time to talk to me via email btw, the inbetween owner was a little scarce on the details. sweet88, I am not entirely certain what you wanted :).
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