Thanks :)
and good luck.
1991 BMW 325i Coupe - Build Thread - The end is in sight!
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Wow good job on the documentation of your build. I will certainly look for major guidance in my upcoming reconditioning of my M20 since is pissing oil and the suspension feels crappy. Great great workLeave a comment:
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a few snow pics from the storm
Fedex got delayed so hopefully I will get my bloody hose tomorrow and put it in this week. also need to blow out the oil cooler as I feel it is clogged.

some asshole spun out on the freeway cause he was going to fast and almost hit me and caused me to spin - this is the only damage - I am gonna try to zip tie it back on when it warms up

not exactly motorcycle weather, plus i lost the key to it in the snow the other day - this snow week has been kinda shitty

with no lip its not really a plow but the oil pan burns a tunnel through the snow too
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The clunk could be caused by an improperly seated pinion crush sleeve. The internals of that newer differential you got from the 24v swap guy looked too clean to not have been recently re-sealed/rebuilt. Considering the price you paid I'm sure the PO was aware there was a clunking issue.
Before disassembling your rear diff double check your work on the rest of the rear subframe. It helps to also have a second set of eyes look over things too. There is a possibility of something as simple as a loose bolt causing your issues.Leave a comment:
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Now my updates for the week:
Game plan:
-install new radiator hose (DONE)
-install new oil cooler line (DONE but got the wrong one - ordered the right one)
-fix rear end clunk (SORT OF DONE)
-tow hook (DONE)
-drop rear(DONE)
stuff

new hose in and system bled

the leak

now onto the oil issue - there are two hoses running to the oil cooler - one is short and the other is longer - Steve hooked me upwith the wrong one, bt after a quick call he got me the other one coming on Monday for a good deal - thats good customer service.
he offered to take this one back but I decided to just replace both of them to be safe. The nut that attachs to the oil cooler is huge 1 1/16 standard (autozone didnt have metric thatbig) the nut that attaches to the block is a 24mm I believe but I used an adjustable wrench.
here is the old one

there was some really nasty oil in the original one and the oil cooler - get that shit out of there

don really have pics of it installed sorry.
now to the tow hook:

now tothe rear end clank:
I got the AKG kit for extra camber and toe an I gotta say their customer service is pretty crappy. Thats all I will say for now.
the issue is I cant get a wrench in there.

here is what I tried to no success

here is the car dropped about an inch in the rear - about 1/3 of the way down.


car feels much better and there is way less clunk in the back - the lesson is that the GC coils are not designed to run at the top of their range. Now i need some nice shoes.
So future side projects
- get race seat rack andget it in the car
-replace the other oil cooler hose
-get the door locks working again.
-more stuff I cant remember.
Thanks thats it for now.Leave a comment:
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On a further update:
-the car is running great after getting everything back together and I have not seen any new oil coming out of the intake but I will take a closer look ever the weekend, but so far no CEL.
-clunking is still there
-Steve has sent me a new oil cooler hose, as well as a new upper radiator hose, so hopefully after this weekend I should no longer be leaking from random places.Leave a comment:
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also I need the fallowing bracket for my seat
D158T
if anyone has one available please let me konw, dont feel like paying an extra 100 bucks. save me some money :)Leave a comment:
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I hear it whenever I drive, also its slightly delayed after bumps. really getting annoying. I will have to look at it more closely. I do not mind shaving down a wrench and then taking to for my alignment guy to use. just need to spend more time looking at it I guess.
BTW are you going out to the AutoX on the 30th?Leave a comment:
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- When do you hear the noise in the rear end?
- I had to shave down the side of the subframe bushing next to the TA bolt on my car to provide room to get a wrench in there. I also grinded down an 18mm wrench to adjust the eccentrics.Leave a comment:
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So some more updates.
Problems:
-rear end clunk
-how to adjust the outside bolts on the trailing arms?
-crazy oil leak from the intake.....
So the rear end issues are still up for debate, but I got a chance to take care of oil leak.
Pics:
First things first - I needed to take care of the oil issue, replace some gaskets, and do a valve adjustment.
all this came out of the filter



took it all apart and thoroughly cleaned it with brake cleaner and carb cleaner



old throttle body gasket

all clean

valve adjustement

all back together.

so closing thoughts:
-Anyone know how to get it to stop clanking?
-Also why does one of my rear springs not seat properly?
-how do i get to the outside bolts with an AKG kit installed?
ALso for those who are interested the cause of the massive amount of oil coming out of my filter was because the pipe that runs from the oil pan to the intake for vapors was not tight, causing a vacuum leak and the such.
I found I need to replace an oil sender hose on the oil cooler, and the upper radiator hose.Leave a comment:
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got another new bit - excellent deal from a local. A slightly dirty but like new Corbaue A4 black seat and 4 point harness. It also came with rails but I am probably going to end up making custom convertors a la the e36 m3 conversion plates.

I am also growing a beard to see what I look like with one. Just a thought.Leave a comment:
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Well my winter break sprint has been concluded - I have completed everything I had planned to do over the break.
so before we get to the days activities I want to say a few words.
1. Thank you to everyone who has made this project change from dream to reality
- My dad for his expertise and garage space, not to mention a lot of his tools
- My friends Alex and Anthony for their support and information
-Steve from Blunt Tech for all your continued help and parts
2. Things I have learned:
-there is no substitute for the power of the 3lb sledge - just cause its a BMW doesnt mean you cant hit it.
- Call the manufacturer - they are real people too and will often be able to assist you.
-everything takes from 1.5 to 2 times long on an old car as planned - how you northern guys even work on these things amazes me.
- invest in a good solid flannel workshirt - you may look like a lumberjack but you will be comfortable.
I also wanted to say I am pretty damn proud of myself for what I have accomplished here - This is the deepest I have ever gotten into a car and am excited to realize everything that I have learned and now understand.
Sure for some of you guys this is the 9-5 type stuff that is second nature, but for me a lot of this was a first and the car runs so I am happy.
So is this the end of the project? Not even close!
and with that I want to lead into the list of what was accomplished today and pictures:
- Front Springs
-Shocks
-Control Arms
-Powerflex FCAB
-Sway Bar Bushings
-Sway bar endlinks
-Tie rods
-Brake rotors and pads
-Fixed the shifter
-put my interior back together
getting started

old stuff comming out

and gone

parts pile

got the springs off - had to throw the assemblies in the truck and go to the nearby Firestone to barrow their air tools - those nuts were not coming out

the old struts were DOA - and they dumped all their fluid into the tubes over time - that smelled bad

this shit threw me - I didnt know the e30s had this kind of nut holding the strut cartige in place - I used a punch and hammer to get them off - not fun

test fit one - decided to cut the perches in the end

final assembly

powerflex vs stock

begining reassembly

box o' suspension parts

the old endlinks started spinning through - what a bitch - with no way of getting the end link off the half angle grinder came out again



ended up having to cut them out on both sides - what a pain
new sway bar bushings vs old

sway bar done

new control arms in

tie rods and boot

new brakes

e30 suspension tech done right


With the rear all the way up and the front about half she is low - there is like 2 " between the oil pan and the ground - I dont like it -the front will come up in teh next few days as I get a chance



dirty but satisfied

So final feelings:
The suspension is amazing - even with teh car way out of alignment I was very impressed with the handleing characteristics of the suspension.
Stuff to be done this weekend -
-start to dial in the suspension and lift it a bit in the front
-plug in the speed sensor :facepalm::tsk:
NOTE: on the shifter - the solution to useing the z4 3.0l shifter is to bend the selector rod up over the guibo - I did this using a hammer and a jack under the car - bend it a little and let it sit for a while - the shifts are super short and amazing and very notchy, and there is pretty much no rubbing now.
Now that school starts the updates are not going to be as plentiful but they will trickle in. Things to look forward to in teh next 3 months:
-Motor Mounts
- Trans Mounts
-Blue ATE brake fluid
-Fuel Filter
-US ellipsoidals conversion with HID kit
-Electric Fan Conversion
-MAF
-Oil Cooler Hoses
-Interior work
--seats
--paint carpet
--new speaker wires
-Lose some weight
--sound deadening and such
-Ostrich 2.0 and tuning
-custom exhaust
and more. :thumbsup:Leave a comment:
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thanks - its either that or be prepared to do it multiple times
Damn today was exhausting.
I got the shifter in but someone needs to show me howto bend it as its rubbing like crazy - but I love the short notchyness - if i could only get it bent right.....
We also got the subframe back in. big thanks to dad and Alex for lending a hand.
However before we could try to get anything back in we had to get the bits of the old subframe bushings out.
This was a pain from Hell. I ended up using a combination of drill with long bit and chisel/3lb sledge combo - It came out but it took me a few hours to get it out.
z4 3.0L vs stock

this was a huge pain to put in

it RUBS!!!

Rouge RSM w/ Koni shocks - took me a bit to figure these out as well. you have to pull the rubber bushing out of the shock to be able to adjust them. I decided one turn from full was the appropriate amount for 750lbs springs

and here I realized these were not going to come out easy

after some hammering and drilling

and done - put some lithum grease in there just in case I ever have to do with again

what came out.

and many hours later

Koni Adjustables, GC coils, BimmerBrake brakes, stoptech pads, Bimmerworld wheel studs - an e30 rear done right




coils currently at highest setting - will get some btter pics tomorrow - the car is about level being stock in front and full up in back.
Well. I am going to take a day off tomorrow and sleep and then friday we getting to the front - which should hopefully be easier if dirtier.Leave a comment:

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