1991 BMW 325i Coupe - Build Thread - The end is in sight!

[MaksV]

New stuff has come in for my interior project:



Put in new wires for the speakers. Decided i will go with 6x9 in the rear when the time comes. Also planning on recovering the rear shelf with black speaker carpet.

My special wiring tool. Custom made. Taking orders now. $100 shipped


wires:


yuk


anybody know what this goes to? on the passenger side next to speaker.


new wire in.


here is the rear shelf. Plan is black fabric, and 6x9 with custom covers. Gonna cover up the seatbelt holes as well.


used stock wiring locations:

[MaksV]

Got a couple of things done:
-brake leak taken care of
-OFH leak dealt with
-cut down intake tube to make filter fit.












Yesterday my buddy Alex helped me weld in some new seat studs.



Much more stuff to come in the next few days.

[MaksV]

Removed the stock carpet today in anticipation of doing the audio work, as well as the upcoming custom carpet. Stock carpet weights about 50lbs. shits insane, plus mine was a bit wet. yuk.

Found out i cant use my race seat, and I have been kicking myself for passing up a good deal on some nice race seats a few weeks ago, and now this just makes it so much worse. So I am back to rocking stock sport seats. Hopefully I can get the welding done and can go to town on the rest of the interior stuff.

A few rando pics from the day:


oil seals came in:


Pull all interior carpet


DIY I wrote

[MaksV]

Your ECU is gonna last about 5 min right there

Its been there for about 6 months already. No issues. At least now it is bolted into place. and water will not pool around it....

[328ijunkie]

Your ECU is gonna last about 5 min right there

[MaksV]

Here we go. I got a lot of little stuff done today.

Took care of the brake fluid leak. Turned out to be a small line from Res to the MC.



Bolted computer in place.




Rolled the front fenders.






Replaced rear bumper.



found location of oil leak. Tried temp fix, need to order parts to get it permanently fixed. Wish I had known about this when I was rebuilding the engine.




Battery is now secure:



This brace is free for anyone who wants its....

[MaksV]

Nice writeup! I need to replace my fuel pump this winter and this will come in handy. :up:

Thanks.

[Gnarles]

Nice writeup! I need to replace my fuel pump this winter and this will come in handy. :up:

[MaksV]

So a few days ago my fuel pump went (sort of) so I decide to order a new unit. Figured I would just got the 255LPH route for future boost or w/e.

TRE is a good alternative (cheaper) than walbro and seems to have good review. The E30 uses the TRE 340 unit.

Here is the link.

http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Ftreperformance.com%2FFuelPumps%2FTRE255FuelPumps.html&h=eAQES2LX-

While not a complete plug and play (More LPH = bigger size) It is pretty simple. I did it for the first time in the dark with no problems.

1. Remove all carpets/seats/ect in your way

2. Disconnect Battery (recommended)

3. 4 phillips screws on the cover need to be removed



4. 4 8mm nuts and washers need to be removed from fuel level sensor



5. slide it out - ITS FULL OF FUEL (depending on level) so be prepared




6.Remove the small connector fuel hose.

7. Rotate remaining bracket COUNTERCLOCKWISE and pull it up




8. Disassemble and unsolder the connector wires - pay attention to the polarity






9. Cut the bracket for the larger nozzel



10.solder on new wires, assemble pump, dont forget the fillter



11.Put it back in the car - this time rotating CLOCKWISE



12.Put in the fuel level sensor and the cover and drive away - Also recommend replaceing that bit of fuel line if its old.

[MaksV]

Got the Tre pump and haven't looked back, few thousand miles and not a single hickup from the pump itself.

just ordered one. Will get to it when it shows up.

[trackjunkie21]

Got the Tre pump and haven't looked back, few thousand miles and not a single hickup from the pump itself.

[MaksV]

This was going to be a small update. turned out being a rather bad and big update.

Fixed the exhaust rattle. Apparently muffler shop forgot second band clamp and decided to tack weld it instead. Damn exhaust almost fell out.




Probably going to replace CAT with a small glass pack soon to try to quite sound down a little.

Put in a clutch stop - This was really necessary. Anyone need a stock piece?



Was about to leave, but then my mom yells she needs to give me something. So I figure I turn off the car and wait. Got the item, and then go to start car. Comes to life then dies. :headscratch:

The car cranks but nothign happens. Reset the computer, same result. Check fuel pressure next. Nothing. No fuel pressure. Fuel Pump relay seems ok. Check voltage at pump. 12V. hook power supply to pump - no sound, no fuel pressure. So pump is dead. I just cant seem to win. Now I gotta figure out if I want to spend $207 on a stock replacement. or get a Wallbro or TRE 255LPH pump. Thoughts?

[MaksV]

Ok. More updates. Its about time I know but life has been rough lately.

So I have my re inspection planned for Wednesday afternoon. The guy I need should be back by then so I can get my baby legal again. Drove it to campus though.

Today I decided to finally take care of the braking issue I was having. The solution was to buy an IX booster and master cylinder. This is definitly not something I recommend changing after you put the motor in if you can avoid it cause its a pain, but in my case it was a necessity.

A few intersting design notes. The clevis on the i/is/e cars is square, mak9ing it very hard to rotate to adjust length after the booster is in the car. The one on the ix booster is rounded off to make it easier. Much better.

steps required to removed old booster:
-drain all fluid
-remove res
-remove master cylinder
-remove TB
-unscrew and lift intake manifold.
-4 nuts on the back
-clevis and pin

All in all a lot of work and its a super pain to remove it still. Geting the new one in was much easier. After I started the car there was stuttering and gas spraying everywhere. Turned out I had punctured the small gas return line at the back of the engine. :facepalm:

So I fixed that and then spent close to an hour bleeding all the lines, since the master was completely empty it was hard to get all the air out. Honestly I can probably go back in a week and rebleed all the brakes to ensure minimum air bubbles. But now my brakes dont bind, arn't hypersensitve, and the car is once again a joy to drive.

Plans going forward(near future):
-Inspection
-Clean up engine bay
--harness cover
--bind all the hoses together
--paint windshield wiper jug
--power wash the **** out of everythign
-figure out and solve oil leak (perhaps the oil filter housing gasket)

-Redo interior
--new race seats(pair)
--custom carpet
--speaker wire instead of house wire :facepalm:
-new HU, speakers, ect

You guys can expect a lot of updates over winter break :4ngie:

Pictures:
Finally got the old booster out of there.


New booster in but here is another problem. I found a plastic 90* angle piece and had to hammer a bit of the strut tower to fit. This is a load bearing piece so I didnt want to cut anything.


Almost there:


Old clevis and nut, notice how its square making a pain in the ass to turn under the dash


My solution for the check valve.



A blurry look inside the old booster.


This thing just fell out. Dont think thats supposed to happen.

[MaksV]

Well i finally got everything fixed up last night and went to the inspection. Fail.

I managed to get the new radiator in, rewire the o2 sensor so it wont short itself, but the first test failed on Nox and HC. Guy told me to go drive the piss out of it at highway speeds to make sure the cat burns through, and reaches operating temp.

So i did. Car will shoot up all the way to 140 w/o a problem. AFR is spot on. but emissions is a bitch.

Came back and here are my numbers:
my number/allowed number

High Speed Low Speed
HC 88/114 147/117
Nox 1246/796 1456/879

The Nox didnt change after my drive but i managed to pass the HC high speed after my driving adventure. Guy said if its Nox it most likely the CAT not doing what its supposed to.

[BrownBeanE30]

the problem with ur brakes is the lil pin inside the master cylinder you have to shorten it a bit so ur breaks wont break like they do