Eta-to-M50: Build thread

[Jand3rson]

Today the Postman and FedEx man bringeth me gifts! USPS brought my new rear main, new rear main housing gasket, and new oil pan gasket. FedEx brought me a nifty little thing from SKF called a Speedi-Sleeve that I'll be using on the crankshaft seal surface, check it out here:

http://www.vsm.skf.com/en-US/HeavyDuty/KitsAndTools/SpeediSleeve.aspx

No more leaks from this rear main... :D

[hfabricius]

Andrew and I are going to be making a DSSR with the 10 degree angle built in ourselves. Keep posted for updates on that.

Are you making a custom one, or modifying a normal UUC DSSR? They make a DSSR with the 10 degrees fabbed in now, I will be picking when up for my swap.

[Jand3rson]

We're making a custom one. I have the resources to have one made, so it will be much cheaper than buying one new, and I like to fab/help fab my own parts when I can.

[hfabricius]

Makes sense. If I had the resources, I would like to fab up my own parts but being a poor college student, its hard to even buy parts that are already made.

By the way, I use your thread all the time for info while I get closer to finishing my swap.

[Jand3rson]

By the way, I use your thread all the time for info while I get closer to finishing my swap.

Awesome, glad to be of help! Let me know if you have questions on anything that isn't covered.

[Jand3rson]

#13 is what I'm replacing, I've already replaced the rubber shift carrier bushing with the AKG Delrin bushing, too.

So as was my suspicion, #13 didn't come with a new #19 in it, and I don't have time to order one. The one that was inside my current shift knuckle is still there, and still in one piece, just a little squashed. Can I still use the same one if I put a round piece of something down in there (like a little disc of plastif or something) and flip it over to the side that isn't squashed? I don't know what the thickness of the little piece is supposed to be, but if I can stick something down in there and put the old one in on top of it, shouldn't it theoretically be fine?

If not, it seems like it's a very dense foam or rubber, can I just make a new one?

I pulled it out of the old shift knuckle about 20 minutes ago, and it was soaked in old gear oil, so I've been squishing it in a paper towel to soak up all the oil that it was saturated with, and it's already popped back up to thicker than it was when I pulled it out. Anyone have any ideas?

[pantelones]

If not, it seems like it's a very dense foam or rubber, can I just make a new one?

I just replaced #13 since I am using the AKG DSSR and I had the forethought to order a new #19. When I was putting it in I thought about using a stiff RC car spring and turning down a washer for the pin side. It wont wear or disintegrate like the foam piece, and it will stay firm to help eliminate play. If you got time to waste it might be a worth while project.

[Holland]

I think you should be fine. That little piece isn't as important as 13 is. As long as it's in there I foresee no issues.

[Jand3rson]

In another about 10 minutes, it had popped back up even a little more, and was very firm and solid after I soaked all the old gear oil out of it. I flipped it over and stuck it back in the new one, and reinstalled the new knuckle. It was a good, firm press to line in up with the pin to reinstall it, so I think it will be just fine. It wasn't torn or damaged.

One I thing I did notice between the old shift knuckle and the new one was how badly worn the bushing inside the old one was, the new one was noticeably thicker than the old one. Definitely a good part to replace!

[LJ851]

One I thing I did notice between the old shift knuckle and the new one was how badly worn the bushing inside the old one was, the new one was noticeably thicker than the old one. Definitely a good part to replace!

Not according to Showboatin, but he obviously has his head up his ass on this one, though. Like i said, the foam just stops rattle, sounds like you will be fine with your dried out one.

[Jand3rson]

Well, we started to make some progress tonight. Got the rear main housing all cleaned up, popped the oil seal out, put the new one in, got ready to install the SKF Speedi-Sleeve, and we ordered the wrong one, it was too long. Right diameter, but too long. So I just ordered the right one, should be here next week.

But we did get the oil pump nut welded (no more worrying about that!), changed the shift knuckle on the transmission, and took all the measurements for the DSSR that we're going to make, Andrew is picking up the aluminum for it tomorrow. Keep posted, because we're buying enough make 3 (in case we fuck up), but if we don't, the others will be for sale!

We also started lightly mocking up and figuring out some welds for the exhaust system, we're going to temp-mount the headers on Sunday and weld the Flowmaster Y-pipe on, then I'll order up the V-Bands and take the whole thing in for ceramic coat hopefully next week.

[AndrewBird]

I thought I would mention that the speedi sleeve that was ordered was the part number SKF lists as the correct on, part number 99354. The correct part number is 99353. So if anyone else orders one, be cautious about this. It is the same for M42's as well.

[hfabricius]

What exactly does that speedi sleeve do? I went to the link but I couldn't really find a definite answer.

[AndrewBird]

It is a repair sleeve that fits onto the crankshaft and gives you a new sealing surface for the rear main seal to seal against. The seal will often wear a groove into the crank and cause a new seal to not seal as well. This fixes that.

[hfabricius]

Oh, I see now. That sounds very useful, I be sure to check my mating surface before I button everything up.