MGB + M42 = Win

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Justin B
    replied
    Looking good Andrew.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jand3rson
    replied
    So, all these parts you're fabbing are going to be powdercoated metallic grabber green, right?

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Got the transmission mount/crossmember done tonight.



    Close-up of angled plate:


    Rear nut access hole:


    Access hole on other mount:


    Damn thing weighs 9 lbs. :crazy: The cross member itself is made from 3" wide 3/16" thick channel. I notched the ends to fit in between the frame rails, similar to how the stock crossmember mounts. I'm going to make some plates out of 3/16" x 1-1/2" strap with holes drilled and tapped for the crossmember to bolt to. They will be welded to the bottom of the frame rail. Basically welded in nuts without having to cut into the frame rail.

    I'm slightly worried about the angle of the taller mount. Because it is angled so far, I think a lot of the weight of the trans is put sideways on it instead of down onto it. But the other mount is almost straight up and down and I think it will take most of the load with the taller mount keeping things from moving side to side. If it ends up tearing the mount over time, I'll just go with urethane ones.

    Next up are the motor mounts!
    Last edited by AndrewBird; 03-19-2016, 10:46 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jand3rson
    replied
    Those look great, good to see more progress.

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    3/16" steel plate. Cut them with a band saw, then smoothed the edges with a stationary belt sander. I drew the designs first in AutoCAD, then made cardboard templates so I knew the holes lined up right, then laid the designs out on the steel and cut them.

    Leave a comment:


  • SpoolnDaapex
    replied
    What did you use to make those?

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Made some plates for the motor mounts today. They bolt to the factory holes on the block. I'll weld tube off of these to make the mounts.



    On the block (need shorter bolts):


    These are the mounts I'll be using:


    I also figured out exactly what I need for the transmission mount. The stock mount isn't going to work, even modified. It ends up hitting the transmission in a few spots and is just not the right shape. I plan on using a 3" wide piece of channel iron to span the distance between the frame rails and then use square tubing off of that to the tranny.
    Last edited by AndrewBird; 03-19-2016, 10:45 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Frame rail is straight and I welded in some 3/16" plate for extra strength.

    All the pieces.


    Tacked in place.


    All welded!


    Also shaved a few misc brackets in the engine bay and removed (most of) the factory engine mounts. Now it's time to start making new ones!
    Last edited by AndrewBird; 03-19-2016, 10:44 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • DarkWing6
    replied
    This is an amazing build Andrew. Following for sure! :up:

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Just realized the pump I got with it is not the factory pump, but an aftermarket replacement. That means it has been changed and probably has few miles on it. :D

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Since I am changing from a carbureted engine to one with fuel injection, I need to change my fuel supply around a bit. That includes a high pressure pump and a return line to the tank. I could just buy an aftermarket aluminum fuel tank with a built in pump, but they run $600, which is a bit much I think. The stock tank has the fuel pickup built into the tank. On later model cars though, the pick up is built into the sending unit. So I plan on running a late model sending unit and use that pickup as a return, then use the stock pickup to supply the stock pump. The stock pump will then fill this:



    It's the factory box that the fuel pump mounts in off of an 88 MK2 Jetta. This acts as a reservoir for fuel to stay in to supply the high pressure pump. It has all the fittings and everything I need to make everything work. It even has a bracket to mount the fuel filter to. All I'll have to do is mount it and plumb it in. Should be nice and simple! Got it for a whopping $5 including the pump from the junk yard.
    Last edited by AndrewBird; 03-19-2016, 10:43 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Originally posted by Rigmaster
    What's an MBG?


    ;P


    Seriously, NICE project!!!
    Huh, that's weird. It used to say MGB as I have a book mark of it that says it right. Strange.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rigmaster
    replied
    What's an MBG?


    ;P


    Seriously, NICE project!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • ldsbeaker
    replied
    This is so cool.

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Used a spot weld cutter, duh. ;) Got it from harbor freight. Worked great.

    For reference, that panel has been sitting bare for over 2 years and as you can see, has developed no rust (except for the front patch, it had something spilled on it). It is a very dry climate here, so surface rust isn't a big issue.

    Oh, and no seam sealer will be used. There was none stock and it is staying that way. The insides of the wheel wells and the under side of the body will be getting undercoating though. The interior is going to get bedliner. Might go with that everywhere else instead of undercoating as well, but we will see.

    Leave a comment:

Working...