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    Cabrio Ressurection

    Well, I pulled the trigger on getting a vert today from a fellow forum member (thanks evilsmith)

    Its a bit rough around the edges, and as it donated its 5spd to another car, and being as the wife doesnt drive stick, its gonna be an autotragic....

    Plans are to remove shitty alarm, fix all the wiring that is fubar because of said shitty alarm, and then start putting parts back where they belong.

    Shouldnt take too long, but murphy's law may kick in

    Major missing parts are the carrier bearing, and AFM

    Its dirty now, but there are bigger concerns before I pretty it up





    I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...




    #2
    running parts needed list (will be updated as needed)

    AFM (got it)
    Forward Console
    Rear Console
    Knee Bolster
    Shift console trim
    Shift knob (auto)
    Pass side rear speaker trim (tan) (NVM, I located mine in a pile of other shit)
    HVAC panel (got and installed)
    Center support bearing
    Auto Trans Cooler Lines
    rear driveshaft section
    Diff support bushing Sourced through Blunt
    SI board
    Motor and Trans Mounts Blunt...

    Head Gasket kit
    Head Bolts
    Blunt strikes again

    To Be Continued.......
    Last edited by scottinAZ; 06-01-2011, 03:04 PM. Reason: Added more parts needed
    I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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      #3
      i have an air flow meter (ICV right? i've heard it been called both) it's a bit dirty with revving while idle. jumps from 900 to 1300. but i cleaned it once before, sure it could be fixed? idk i would gladly part with it for cost of shipping lol i was just planning on throwing it away, but i just pocketed one from picknpull as a replacement... sure thats an easy grab haha

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        #4
        Icv and AFM are two different parts. AFM is attached to the airbox, whereas the ICV is attached to the intake duct (and is in place on this car)

        Thanks anyways though....
        I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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          #5
          well, today went fairly well. Removed said shitty assed alarm, and lo and behold almost all the electrics work. Now onto sourcing a reman (or good used) auto driveshaft. My rear u-joint is locked up tighter than a 10 year olds ass.
          I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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            #6
            well, work progresses. Transmission is mounted, engine at least turns over. Seems to have a bit of H2O in some of the cylinders, have to pull the head and see how bad the carnage is. This was a known issue, so no surprises here. Did however find that the motor mounts are completely separated, and will need to be changed. Wish I still had the ones from my Eta, even as worn out as they were, they were still in better shape than these. Drivers side is completely separated, and pass side isnt much better.

            On another note, I did a compression check on the motor, and results are not encouraging.

            High was 125 on cyl 1, with the other 5 showing about 35-45 or so.

            I retested #1 after the others to rule out (hopefully) a bad tester, with similar results to the first test

            Head will be coming off on Thursday to determine fate of the motor....
            Last edited by scottinAZ; 05-24-2011, 06:37 PM. Reason: added compression test results
            I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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              #7
              well, its murphys law time. After removing the head, it appears some moron did a headgasket job improperly at some point in the not so distant past.







              Now I get the pleasure of doing it properly. Oh well, at least I can confirm that this is the original motor for the car (140K Woot!!)
              I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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                #8
                went to the junkyard today, and sourced some parts. New(er) check panel, HVAC panel, AFM, and non-chipped fan. Also got the jumper harness for the reverse lights.

                Got the HVAC panel installed, and got the jumper in on the shift console. Other miscellaneous crap done as well (clips for trunk shock)

                More progress on pricier parts will take place when funding allows on Tuesday
                I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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                  #9
                  not too much progress the past two days. Got the shift linkage for the trans installed, and decided to stick with the 4.10 rear axle, so that is back in place. Still need to tighten down the mount bolts, and hook up the axles though. Starting to run out of things I can do before parts arrive, or another junkyard run is mandatory.
                  I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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                    #10
                    well, 238 bucks later, and all new needed parts are sourced through Blunt (thanks man) Should have the majority of them here tomorrow. WIll do another junkyard excursion for the remainder here tomorrow or friday
                    I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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                      #11
                      ok, today was back to the junkyard.

                      Got a decent condition auto driveshaft (want to make damn sure the trans is good before I drop a couple hundo on a driveshaft)

                      Trans cooler lines, and a new rad bottle. one of the prior owners decided it was OK to jb weld the bottom hose bung back on. I disagree, so I replaced it.

                      Also recieved a load from Blunt.
                      Timing belt, HG kit, all new mounts. Ise a happy boy....

                      I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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                        #12
                        Good luck! was that the one that was on Craigslist for a long time?

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                          #13
                          it was on there for a bit, dont know for sure how long exactly though. With any luck, it will be up and running within a week or so
                          I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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                            #14
                            imo throw that head gasket away. just did my head gasket with that brand and it started seeping oil with in 100 miles. <-- very very pissed.
                            Much wow
                            I hate 4 doors

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                              #15
                              sorry to hear that. I did my Eta with the same brand, and have had no issues what so ever with the head gasket. I DID however have the rear rocker seals that were leaking badly, making me think it was a head gasket. changed them out and not a drop in 20k miles. At this point im gonna take my chances I think..
                              I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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