M20B29 w/ Triple Webers into my '71 2002

[drutt23]

Dam. Nice work on the steering box man!! Looks good!! Keep it comin!

[SkiFree]

^Thanks, as Johnny Cash once said.... one piece at a time.



So I figured the best way to do the suspension was to borrow/buy duplicates of the subframes, struts housings, etc. and just swap everything over on a weekend.

Assembled nearly all the pieces to be powdercoated.



I'm going to cut out some templates and have Ed weld them up to box these rear trailing arms. Seen a couple bend on some high HP cars.



Some reinforcement on the driver's side motor mount arm.

[deutschman]

At some point after the m20 swap I am getting a steering box and coil overs all around (true rear coil over kit). My steering box is sheeet!

[pazza]

any up-dates?

[SkiFree]

^^ Nothing major

Have a number of bits just about to be powder coated or zinc-ed. The seam welded control arms were at the powdercoaters and they somehow managed to lose them

Looking into ignition options. Running a stock 323 distributor doesn't look like it would make that much sense when for a similar price I could go with an EDIS system (megajolt lite jr.). Electromotive would be nice, but that's a little out of my price range. This effects the manifold design as the ONLY real reason to put an S bend into it would be to clear the distributor.


Also have front and rear brakes larger brakes in process. They will go on the car at the same time as the suspension. more details as they arise.

[SkiFree]

BRAKES

So for my build the entire idea is to make it as stock appearing on the outside as possible, but I'll obviously some pretty decent stopping power. My setup will be as follows.

FRONT BRAKES

For those versed in 2002 lore the Volvo based brake kit is pretty common knowledge. I'll be running the our Ireland Engineering BBK setup which includes everything needed for the cross over.
*E21 Small bearing hubs -- The spindle of the E21 strut are the same dimensions as the one found on the 2002, allowing me to ditch the ancient hub over rotor assembly. Small bearing hubs are found on post 77 US cars, but as they are becoming increasingly difficult to find, we (IE) decided it would be more cost effective and convenient to just make our own using the same dimensions.
*12x57 thread-in studs -- no longer need the stock press in studs.
*Wheel bearings
*dust cap
*Re-drilled Volvo based calipers
*E21 vented rotors (USA 1977 only or any E21 euro 323. For some unknowable reason BMW USA switched back to solid rotors after 1977).
*pads -- I'll be running some generic ceramic performance pads.



Pics...
First step, got a little ahead of myself and a little too happy with the locktite when fitting the studs.



Interesting comparo of the E21 hub vs. the one found on a Panoz Esperante GTS Spec Racer.



Pounding in the races. If you are not confident DO NOT put in races like this, you will screw it up. Yes, there is a tool to press in races. I used a simular sized socket and rubber hammer.



Caliper size camparo. Note the allowed width for the rotor, the Volvo caliper obviously is wider allowing for the vented disk.



Rotor size comparo showing my 'big rotor' for the 2002 as compared to a couple of the E30 BBK rotors.



Test fit.



The beauty of flush fitment due of the redrilled mounting holes. While it is possible to run the calipers without redrilling, the pads do not site flush with the rotor. Some people opt for the easy way out, to each their own I guess.

[SkiFree]

Stupid bandwidth, the earlier pictures should be visible next month (December). Onward with the help of ImageShack!


REAR BRAKES

---To again comply with the sleeper approach I am going to be running the 250mm rear drum setup from the E21.


Dissassembly of the rear hub requires removal the rear stub axle nut. It's not the easiest nut to remove. I got them off by using a good amount of penetrating oil and an air gun.

Removal of the rear hub. I used a rubber hammer and rotated the hub while gently tapping the backside, however a proper puller is the more generally accepted route.




Hubs off and studs pressed out, off to be zinc coated.



Comparo of the 230mm standard drums found on the 2002 as compared to the 250mm drums from the E21.



Everything ready to go. Included from the gentleman I bought the setup from on the FAQ, was the parking brake cables from the 2002 Turbo (slightly longer). Depending on how much one's E-brake line has been previously adjusted (i.e. shortened) one might need to run these.

[deutschman]

Why not do disk brakes in the back?

[SkiFree]

Why not do disk brakes in the back?

A 2002 equipped with properly adjusted 250mm drums will stop just as well as the vw caliper disk brake setup. As a small aside it's nice to keep things as BMW as possible (minus the front calipers). Plus I won't need to machine the rear hubs down.

All the vintage 2002 race cars ( Jeff Ireland's, Ken Blasko's, Matt Ronin's, etc.) are all running the 250mm drum setup. Yes, it's per class restrictions, but they stop pretty well.

[deutschman]

Good to know.

[SkiFree]

Pretty stoked, I just had a 4-speed transmission from a euro 323 (Getrag 242) drop in my lap (Thank you Matt of Ronin Autowerks!). which can be combined with the 320i 5speed (getrag 245 "US spec") to create a cost efficient way of getting a 5-speed that has the M20 compatible bell housing and fit in the tranny tunnel without needing to hack it up ( a la' Getrag 260). Once I get a chance I'll be meeting up with Rob at Precision Gearing and do a write up.

In my opinion, for any standard M20 swap, it is a crime to hack up the sheet metal of the tranny tunnel and is simply unnecessary. The 323 5speed (Getrag 245 'euro spec') or the hybrid 242/245 type going on this car are more than capable of handling the power and don't require body surgery. The Hybrid 242/245 Getrag is also relatively affordable.

The guys at Stanceworks work kind enough to stop by a little while ago...

http://www.stanceworks.com/2011/11/ireland-engineering-bmw-heaven/

[deutschman]

^
Nice! I read their stuff a fair amount.
I am using a g240 from a 318i. I wonder how that will fit.
Talked to my boss. I am getting bumped up to Sous Chef after December which is good because more money, but means I wont get a break to put the motor in till April. I am getting very antsy.
Just means I will have to buy more parts from you guys in that time.
I want a baffle and windage tray, fuel pressure regulator, and a few other odds and ends.
What are you using for fuel line and fittings?

[SkiFree]

^ Congrats on the promo, that's got to feel pretty good! To be honest I haven't even considered the fuel line setup yet. I think you're a fair bit ahead of me, will be interesting to see how the 240 will fit up. I've heard of slightly off kilter shift position, but frankly that could be a little relative.

[SkiFree]

Mano got himself an article in Bimmer Magazine for the Schwartz Turbo Tii (those of you who came out to the Ireland Engineering / Groma Race Fab. open house this last summer will remember the car).

http://www.bimmer-mag.com/issues/104/articles/take-two?page=1

Congrats to him! His 2002 triple weber build is a little up in the air at the moment, will update when something comes up.

[SkiFree]

Parts finally back from powdercoaters, was worth the wait, they did an awesome job. Went with a black semi-gloss.

Was a LONG Saturday getting everything put together, luckily Jeremy came in as well.

Here's the end of day shot, should get everything in the car this coming Saturday. Then it's time to start thinking about the M20 again.



BMW 2002 strut build ....

The bare powdercoated struts (obviously the threads on top and the spindle were masked.



Had the steering arm zinced, put in new ball joints, and greased up the inside (used some bearing grease).



Greased up the hub and bearings....



after putting on the grooved washer I tightened down the castle nut nice and tight before backing off one tooth and sliding the cotter pin through (after a couple of days driving, I'll go back in and tighten it down some more)



Next were the Bilstein HD shocks, these went in pretty smoothly except getting a good handle on the gland nut was a PITA. I've heard that you can smear a thin coat of ATF on the insert to prevent corrosion, however with the risk that the breather at the bottom of the insert might get blocked I opted to put them dry. Guess time will tell.

Bolted the steering arm to the bottom of the strut and safety wired the bolts. The little bolts are getting pretty spendy at $6.25 each BMW list price.



How struts will sit until they go into the car. I'll be reusing the Ireland Engineering Stage 1 springs along with new strut bearings and some fixed camber plates. No need to go coilovers unless I want a track car.