M20B29 w/ Triple Webers into my '71 2002

[TrentW]

Oh yes, we're all in need of some news Andrew.

[indecline]

Impressive feats thus far. Let's see something happen!

[TimeMachinE30]

Is it singin' yet?

[kid325e]

Can't wait for a video to hear this thing sing!

[The Dark Side of Will]

Ahh, ok. Thanks. I had missed that those little parts on the ends are bearings.

[LJ851]

Aluminum and stainless are not very good bushing materials, as both tend to gall badly (as if there's such a thing as galling well?)...
There are any number of bronze materials that would give a longer service life that the aluminum.

The aluminum and stainless are not being used as bushings, they are only spacers to transfer the load through the inner races of the bearings when the though bolt is tightened.

[The Dark Side of Will]

So I'm moving at a snails pace right now but finished a couple more bits, namely the brake booster support area and the pedal box.

First up was the booster pivot lever, thanks to Marshall's encouragement I drew it up in solid-works and had them spit out on a cnc lathe. Since the sleeve was much longer than the pedal sleeves, it took a little extra effort to press it in (TIP: make sure the ID of the pivot is very well cleaned prior to pressing in the sleeve, there was some persistent build up on mine that took some work with a cartridge roll to clean out). When pressing in the sleeve try and use a material softer that aluminum, a wooden dowel worked perfect for me.





Used the billet sleeves on the pedals, this shows the spacing I used (one spacer washer between the major components). We had 3 other boxes laying around the shop and for each one the overall length between the bolt support arm and the side of the pedal box. I'm chalking it up to production tolerances. Tightened the bolt up just until it started to bind the pedals, then backed off until the pedals moved freely.

Aluminum and stainless are not very good bushing materials, as both tend to gall badly (as if there's such a thing as galling well?)...
There are any number of bronze materials that would give a longer service life that the aluminum.

[SkiFree]

Nice work all around.

On the intake manifold, do you not need an isolation mount in there, where the Webers are hanging off the manifold and want to flex?

I ask because Alfas have an extra rubber isolator mount in the system. Maybe that's because it's a 4 with more vibration? Although I have seen aftermarket and race applications where it's a solid aluminum piece with rubber o-rings.

[ATTACH]86607[/ATTACH]

Thanks latefan.

In regards to rubber isolator mounts, no I won't be using them. As you mentioned you'll actually find a number of factory/aftermarket weber setups that did not use them either (Aston DB5, Jags, Maserati's). Yes the 6 will be inherently smoother, but I've been involved with enough M10 dual sidedraft projects to know they are rarely needed.

The problem is that its not a matter of "if", but "when" they start to leak. And I don't really want to have to deal with tracking done air leaks when trying to tune them in the first place.

Honestly I know there's a lot of conflicting information out there on these, so I'm simply going with what I know works. Have been fortunate enough to have weber-sage Gron Perry weighing in as well.

[LateFan]

In the words of Mr. Cash "one piece at a time" (notice the "stealth intake manifold")

Nice work all around.

On the intake manifold, do you not need an isolation mount in there, where the Webers are hanging off the manifold and want to flex?

I ask because Alfas have an extra rubber isolator mount in the system. Maybe that's because it's a 4 with more vibration? Although I have seen aftermarket and race applications where it's a solid aluminum piece with rubber o-rings.

[deutschman]

More great work and super clean helpful pictures. Can't wait for my next 02

[SkiFree]

Jeff's been kind enough to lend me a bit of room in the new shop, immediately filled it with "stuff". Got electrical and air within arms reach so I feel pretty fortunate.




I've posted that I'd be running a 272 in the past, but after talking some numbers with our cam grinder we started with a blank semi-finished cam, used the schrick 272°/284° numbers as a starting point and ended up with a slightly different profile that should be ideal for my project.



Kind of a neat shot showing what an unfinished cam lobe looks like



The beige beast herself has been out of commission for the last couple months as I've guiltily taken solace in the cool arms of a Honda Civic's loving AC system. What luxury.

In reality though, I managed to smoosh her front end and am using it as an excuse and go full resto on the body.

[SkiFree]

So I'm moving at a snails pace right now but finished a couple more bits, namely the brake booster support area and the pedal box.

First up was the booster pivot lever, thanks to Marshall's encouragement I drew it up in solid-works and had them spit out on a cnc lathe. Since the sleeve was much longer than the pedal sleeves, it took a little extra effort to press it in (TIP: make sure the ID of the pivot is very well cleaned prior to pressing in the sleeve, there was some persistent build up on mine that took some work with a cartridge roll to clean out). When pressing in the sleeve try and use a material softer that aluminum, a wooden dowel worked perfect for me.







To contact the inner bearing race while not binding on the outer bearing ring while under tension I ended up having a bunch of specifically sized washers zapped out of stainless (searched up and down for an off-the-shelf washer to no avail).



Used the spacer washers on both ends of the bearings. A tiny dab of grease on the washers helped them stick to the bearings, making easier to slide the bolt through the booster support and the pivot (replaced the nla outer washers with some big jobbies from Mcmaster-carr).



I'm using an E12 brake master which meant I can run the E30/E21 brake fluid resivour directly on top of the master. This should clean up the engine bay a bit more (guessing the fuel regulator will fit nicely in the stock fluid resivour went). Mocked it all up for giggles along with a coupe of the brake hardlines.



-------------------------------------------------------

Next up was the pedal box. Box was powder coated black and I cad plated all the bits.





Used the billet sleeves on the pedals, this shows the spacing I used (one spacer washer between the major components). We had 3 other boxes laying around the shop and for each one the overall length between the bolt support arm and the side of the pedal box. I'm chalking it up to production tolerances. Tightened the bolt up just until it started to bind the pedals, then backed off until the pedals moved freely.



Nearly all tidied up.



Mocked everything up together and then took them apart, covered them in saran wrap, and put them in boxes until I'm ready for the.



In other news, I did the transmission rebuild and bell housing swap this last weekend under the helpful hand of Rob Inhout (Rids) at his amazing shop. Here's a little preview....

[SkiFree]

Sorry for the lack of updates, life happens. Am gearing up for some nice updates soon though.

Where in the remote filter block are you adding your temp/pressure senders? The other two NPT slots on the other side?

Yep, you've got it.

[Northern]

-off-engine mounting provisions for the oil pressure and oil temp gauge senders (solved by the remote filter block)

Where in the remote filter block are you adding your temp/pressure senders? The other two NPT slots on the other side?

[swift53]

Andrew, great thread!
Just bought a 1980 323i, CR box, here in El Salvador.
I am planning to follow your footsteps and install the drivetrain into a '74 2002.
The K.Jet. is in bad shape and will require unnecessary expenses, and I am assuming more trouble than it is worth it.
I am looking for some DCOE manifolds and possibly a good header to start off. Might you be of help and give me some tips on sourcing these items?

Thank you.
Regards, Alberto