This is Polly, the m30b35 swapped Ratrod.

[silence]

That looks great.

[mbonanni]

I know you have probably answered this in this thread, and maybe even to me, but why did you opt for e28 camber plates?

[pacmanE30]

that strut mount, looks tits

[IronFreak]

Not to thread jack, I'm sure that FE4R or even GCMARK can answer better then me. I got then because the overall profile is shorter then the e30 mounts. Also, not sure I'll need it but you can see that I had to remove quite a bit of materials to get full adjustment out of the plates, I have to imagine there is a lot more adjustment over the e30 ones. I haven;t seen the e30 set so I cannot verify that.

Enough thread jacking, sorry OP just wanted to show you mine since I got the idea from you.

[F34R]

It's ok man, but I would HIGHLY suggest adding more metal to the areas that are not in use. IE: top and bottom. That is a ton of stress impact. Take the car and get it adjusted into the camber and toe you desire. Then weld closer to all corners of the plate. I am just worried it will fracture from a hard bump.

I need to go back and make mine pretty like that :) always bugged me, but I made mine fit to the plate. Was always worried it would crack.

[IronFreak]

Do you think that would be needed if I put a strut bar on it?

[IronFreak]

And when you say crack, are you talking about the plate or the shock tower?

[F34R]

Don't know how you will get a strut brace on there with the wall build up you made. I personally went with a 22mm front sway bay to pretty much rule one of those out. And honestly, I noticed a difference jumping up to the bigger bar vs driving with a strut brace. Also with that wall build up you will not get a solid clamping to the plate. It will just hover over the e30 tower.

I know it is more work...but dial in the suspension(roughly works). Then build and gaps back in to support the plate top. EVEN if you grind it smooth and install a tower brace. I would still not be surprised on cracks in the future.

That would still be gap between the brace and the plate. Still room for it to crack. I bet it would take a heavy hit to do it. But you already have it all apart, I think you should just add back in with room for adjustment.

Look at mine below, granted it is not pretty. But there is no gaps and solid contact in every corner and straight run of the plate.

[F34R]

This is what I am adding over the winter:

My suspension is dialed in and perfect. Now I can fill is where I know I will never use.

[IronFreak]

I don't know where i want mine yet. Maybe dial it in the go back and fill it in?

[F34R]

I don't know where i want mine yet. Maybe dial it in the go back and fill it in?

That is what I stated a post above. Just get it close, then fill in without hindering adjustment paths. I know there is a triangle that sandwiches from below the GC aluminum plate. I would just fill it in for full contact, it is logical and wise. Better than seeing your insert dent the hood of your car after bottoming out. And trust me.....you will hit shit. I bottomed out just yesterday, came out from nowhere. That is why I have 6qrts of oil, JBweld steelstik and a shit ton of rags in my trunk.

[MJCRO]

Good times with F34R today. Definitely a benchmark E30, I need to get my sedan handling like it!

[JCarp90]

That was a no passing zone you dick.

[mbonanni]

Did you say you were going 100?

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[F34R]

That was a no passing zone you dick.

They had their blinker on and turning into their driveway...like you have never passed someone like that.

Did you say you were going 100?

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We were only going 55mph.