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This is Polly, the m30b35 swapped Ratrod.
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Replaced the 5" 700 rate springs with 4" 800 rates and put the adjusters back in. Gained another 3/4" drop in the back.
Before
After! so smexy. I put the adjusters all the way down and I need to drop the front about 1/4 more. Right now it is perfectly level, I want to get a bit more lower in the front to make it useless. The only way to go lower would be to do a true coilover setup in the back, cup the rear trailing arms to set the adjusters inside the arm. Or run bags, but bags are for bitches. I think I am finally perfectly happy! Zero rubbing, gained a little bit more camber and it sits damn sexy. I still have enough room to run the 245/40s in the rear this coming summer. Going for more meaty setup after these are toast.
BIG shout out to the e30tech camber and toe weld in kit. I have almost a perfectly even wear pattern on the rear tires. Even contact patch all the way out 3/4 of the tread on a 235/40! The outside edging is about 4mm more than the inside. Still wears and shows after driving, but I do haul ass on NY backroads. Gets rid of tread pretty quick in the summer time. So yeah, that is pretty much it till next spring. Getting ready to store her for the winter. I am building a 3 car shed off my parents house to put her away. I will have lights and such, so I am going to focus on cleaning things up for spring.
Last edited by F34R; 11-23-2013, 03:43 PM.
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Originally posted by JCarp90 View PostThat was a no passing zone you dick.
Originally posted by mbonanni View PostDid you say you were going 100?
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Did you say you were going 100?
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Originally posted by IronFreak View PostI don't know where i want mine yet. Maybe dial it in the go back and fill it in?
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I don't know where i want mine yet. Maybe dial it in the go back and fill it in?
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Don't know how you will get a strut brace on there with the wall build up you made. I personally went with a 22mm front sway bay to pretty much rule one of those out. And honestly, I noticed a difference jumping up to the bigger bar vs driving with a strut brace. Also with that wall build up you will not get a solid clamping to the plate. It will just hover over the e30 tower.
I know it is more work...but dial in the suspension(roughly works). Then build and gaps back in to support the plate top. EVEN if you grind it smooth and install a tower brace. I would still not be surprised on cracks in the future.
That would still be gap between the brace and the plate. Still room for it to crack. I bet it would take a heavy hit to do it. But you already have it all apart, I think you should just add back in with room for adjustment.
Look at mine below, granted it is not pretty. But there is no gaps and solid contact in every corner and straight run of the plate.
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And when you say crack, are you talking about the plate or the shock tower?
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It's ok man, but I would HIGHLY suggest adding more metal to the areas that are not in use. IE: top and bottom. That is a ton of stress impact. Take the car and get it adjusted into the camber and toe you desire. Then weld closer to all corners of the plate. I am just worried it will fracture from a hard bump.
I need to go back and make mine pretty like that :) always bugged me, but I made mine fit to the plate. Was always worried it would crack.
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