This is Polly, the m30b35 swapped Ratrod.

[F34R]

Well shucks =)

I know she is not pretty to look at yet, but the list of fab work and goodies is extensive. That list is honestly only 1/3 of the stuff into it. Everything else is new parts that make it reliable. I tore the car down bare and built up with new everything to give you an idea. If I was to do it again I would not change a thing.


I am not new to coilovers, started out on my Honda when I was 17(winter/daily for the e30). Just noob mistakes of coils and stock inserts, then worked my way up to this. I used to have GC coils 700/500, Bilstein sports and new stock bushings and a 21mm cabby sway. Like I said before, it was soggy and meh compared to this.

Since I grid at Watkens Glen and inspect the race cars before they go out I get a chance to meet the drivers. Some of them take me out when they are warming up and such. I got to ride in a GT2 class 996 and the only thing lacking in my e30 is the power. It is raw and planted, nimble does not begin to define how this handles.

9" wide rears and 8" fronts with high performance daily tires goes along way granted.

But thanks for looking, and there was a SCCA event planned for this Sunday. I was attending but it was moved to a week ahead for some reason. So stay tuned, GoPro and a DLSR will get some cool footage to enjoy.

[mbonanni]

When you say 500/700 coils, do you mean just the converison kit? or the full on street touring/race kit?

[F34R]

When you say 500/700 coils, do you mean just the converison kit? or the full on street touring/race kit?

That is the spring rates, this is a custom pieced suspension that I sorted out to my needs.

[F34R]

I cannot get enough of driving this thing, thought I would snap some shots at night.

Ordering the clip for the euro bumpers tomorrow. Installed the lip.


The rear was not low enough...removed the GC spring adjusters and Mark sent me another pair of top centering cones. Using them on the bottom and top...PERFECT height baby!


With that 1/2" drop in the rear I was getting some rubbing from hitting bumps etc. Removed the rear wheels and went to town with a 10lb sledge head and a 25oz ball peen hammer.

Repainted the rubbing and went for a HARD drive and hit some nasty potholes. Jacked up the rear and I can say I have zero rubbing front or rear.


Proof you can tuck 17x9 without rubbing ;)

[mbonanni]

You're crazy. Shit looks tight.

[e30m3s54turbo]

I like color & the wheels set up.

[Mr. Tasty]

what are the final speccs f/r for wheels?

[mr.vang]

nice build

[Pantless Spency]

mmmmm fear those car wash pics have me chubbin.
love the black euro bumpers contrasting the cars body color.


black and brown go so well together

[bemmerguy714]

A few people asked how the e30 M3 sway links work vs stock on the control arm mounting. So I will let my GoPro speak for me =)

Thought it was neat to show how everything works with one another.

I was under the impression that the sway bar was suppose to be level with the ground? Is it better that its above that?

[F34R]

mmmmm fear those car wash pics have me chubbin.
love the black euro bumpers contrasting the cars body color.


black and brown go so well together

Thanks man, I love the Luxor Beige =)

nice build

:)

I was under the impression that the sway bar was suppose to be level with the ground? Is it better that its above that?

I looked over tons and TONS of pictures and reference places that stock and race cars set them at. Some were level, some were higher etc. So I picked a bit above level, everything is amazing. I am sure I will mess with the links for SCCA and tracking days to see how they respond. Right now everything works, I just have other things to get finished on it before worrying about those. I WILL give feedback on adjustments in the future.

My E24 link design is the same setup as the e30 M3, I matched settings for the e24 to my e30. Not the measurements, more of how it looked if you will. Then I measured till both sides matched.

what are the final speccs f/r for wheels?

Started out as 17x8/9 et38, added 25mm spacer to the front and 15mm to the rear. et13 in the front, but I am not sure how to get the rears. I know the rear barrels are 1/2 wider and the lips are 1/2 wider to gain the extra 1" width. My guess for the rear is et8/9 or so. The fronts sit in about 3mm more than the rear. I did not have to flare the fronts, the rears I did to stop them rubbing on the side walls.

[F34R]

Got all my head parts in from IE, thanks Jerbear <3

B25 head that is being used for the conversion. Put a level across all the gaps and it is perfectly level. It looks like the head was replaced at one point on the engine I removed it from.


IE HD rockers, ARP studs, MLS and IE adjustable cam gear.


Monkey Madness Performance m20 adapters for the 524t manifold.


Schrick Hi-Performance valve springs.

[ZinnoBerrotEta]

I was under the impression that the sway bar was suppose to be level with the ground? Is it better that its above that?

This is a big misunderstanding on the forums it seems. The sway bar is not to be setup by putting it parallel to the ground, it is supposed to be perpendicular to the strut. I spoke with Mark from GC the other day, he confirms this. That said, it often ends up pretty close to looking parallel to the pavement.

Absolutely awesome build thread. I have really enjoyed reading this. I love seeing your progress and the feedback you give after each mod.

Thank you for sharing it all with us

[Garageaholic]

This is really coming along, Brandon. Looking great!!!

[CW325]

Looks great! Any pics of how you attached the fairing? Did you make it?