The complete repair, rebuild, repaint, and v8 swap of my early model sedan

[JGood]

I don't think it will deform the tower brace, but yeah, that would guarantee the load transfer. Seems like a lot of extra work, but it would be effective. Don't forget the captive nuts...

Garey

Yeah, getting captive nuts inside that thing is going to be a PITA, but I've got a few ideas. Like most of my ideas, they are probably overcomplicated and inadequate, lol

[JGood]

Did some more work on the booster setup. Only thing left to do is finalize the upper booster bracket on the top of the wheel well.

[bmwmech1]

Nice solution to your dilemma! Looks good and functional...

Garey

[JGood]

Remade the upper booster bracket mount:




Also figured out my rear coolant pipe situation. There are 4 outlets. One on the drivers side will have a plate welded over it to block it off. The one on the passenger side will feed directly into my coolant reservoir. That leaves two in the center. One for heater core in, one for heater core out. I was able to get a 180* hose on one, and I'll connect that via a barb to an offset L shape hose to get it into the firewall. And an off the shelf BMW hose to get the other outlet into the firewall. Should be nice and simple. I'm going to bang on the firewall a bit more so nothing rubs.







Also got my radiator installed. Well, it pretty much installs itself, it just falls into place. Thanks Corey@Track One for the amazing deal!







I also cut my exhaust manifolds and installed them. Due to my more forward engine position, and the use of the e36 M3 rack, I have less room between the steering linkage and engine/trans to get the big 2.5" pipe to fit. I'm going to order some 90* stainless pipes from Summit and give it a shot I guess.

Speaking of the steering linkage, I had to return the Flaming River u-joints I bought, and am getting them exchanged for a set that meets my needs. For anyone curious, the part number for the 3/4" DD shaft joint is FR1963. This is not listed in their catalog. The part number for the 3/4" 36 spline joint is FR1968. Both should work equally as well, but the DD shaft is probably easier due to the parallel joint phasing required for installation. If you want to build one with a welded in steel tube as opposed to the removable/adjustable shafts, use part number FR1939-41.

[Butler]

I just read the whole thread and this was really an incredible way to start the day if you ask me.

You are the ultimate DIY'er and deserve a huge pat on the back.

[kristov]

Why don't you switch the rear coolantpipe with one from a manual transmission car/engine?

It has only 2 outlets.

I don't think it cost that much either.

[JGood]

Why don't you switch the rear coolantpipe with one from a manual transmission car/engine?

It has only 2 outlets.

I don't think it cost that much either.

I need 3 outlets. And the trans cooler outlets on the automatic pipe are the same size as the heater core pipes. The other 2 outlets, and the outlets on the manual trans pipes, are larger as they go to the auxiliary pump in the e34/e32, so I'd need a reduction hose to connect to the heater core, which complicates things more. Plus the one outlet that both the manual and auto cars share, is not in an ideal location (hence the reason I chose that one to block off).

[KillaCams]

Very nice, i remember seeing your car at Blown euroz a few years back. Nice to see you didn't give up and are rebuilding her with a new heart.

[JGood]

Got a good start on the drivers side exhaust manifold:







And some parts arrived - AKG Subframe reinforcement kit, and the coilovers (450f/650r Hypercoil springs and GE sleeves, adjusters, and top hats). I'll run those with shortened strut housings and 325ix Bilstein HD's eventually, but for now the car is sitting on the H&R Race/Bilstein Sports that I had on it before tearing it apart. I'll mess with the suspension after I get the car painted and running.

[Thrizzle]

Just read through...great fab skills on the booster bracket, looks pretty legit.

Must take forever to get all the necessary stuff together?

[JGood]

Just read through...great fab skills on the booster bracket, looks pretty legit.

Must take forever to get all the necessary stuff together?

Thanks man, I'm learning as I'm going. It's been fun!

You just gotta find someone with an e34 parts car. I ended up finding someone who had everything but the main booster bracket, as it was damaged, so I jut ordered a new one. New cast aluminum parts always look nice anyway

[JGood]

My manifolds are pretty much all finished up. I just need to weld the reducers and flanges on the ends, but I'm going to wait until I am ready to run the rest of the exhaust to do that.

I was able to get the passenger side angled down enough to not have to clearance the floorboard.


Drivers side:















Passenger side:

[JGood]

I reassembled the front end to begin working on the body gaps and fitment. Looks like a car again!

[ak-]

:p

[omniscient]

I've had to replace my passenger floor twice and the frame rail under it once already on my car. I've been waiting on doing my rear quarters, rear valance and some other rusted spots but you're a huge inspiration, man. A huge inspiration to just quit my bitching and get back to it. I love reading this thread it gets me motivated.