Kamotors E30-Turbo to ITB M20

[kamotors]

Heat wrap really helped The IAT temps .
heatwrap by kamotors@y, on Flickr

[ThatOneEuroE30]

How warm is she running now? Still to hot to even get under the hood?


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[RagtopE30]

Where did you get your turbo blanket from?

[kamotors]

coolant didnt get hotter than 190 yesterday, and i did multiple pulls and tunes, but also never got stuck in traffic either.

pre meth Intake temps are around ambient even at redline 14psi so intercooler is working great.


Turbo blankets from ebay, but not a Chinese seller it was $70.

[kamotors]

RagtopE30's sticker
sticker by kamotors@y, on Flickr

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Lol that's a awesome sticker


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[LJ851]

coolant didnt get hotter than 190 yesterday, and i did multiple pulls and tunes, but also never got stuck in traffic either.

pre meth Intake temps are around ambient even at redline 14psi so intercooler is working great.

Great progress, congrats.

[kamotors]

anyone else have a stage 5 clutch on an M30?

basically my problem is that I usually have to stop in gear to be able to shift into first or second when stopped at a light, if I put it in neutral and then stop I usually cant engage first gear, there is NO grinding or anything I just cant push it in gear. as long as the vehicles rolling its no problem.

twice today I noticed that the clutch somewhat drags when fully pushed in,basically the car sometimes has a slight pull with the clutch pushed and at idle rpms, if I raise rpms it goes away.I only have 200miles on it, but spec says a stage 5 is a machined face clutch and doesn't break in the same way as the other lower stage clutch so not sure if I just need to keep driving and it will go away or what, I really didnt have this problem when it was first installed.

[MF DOOM]

This is going to sound like a dumb question but is the disc in the proper way?

[kamotors]

yup, made sure with that, also new pivot pin,clips, etc. 533i flywheel machined to OEM spec with the step and everything.Spec has a sticker on the disk saying FW side so hard to mess that one up I used a pressure bleeder but I'm thinking it may still have air in the system. I'll bleed it again tomorrow and report back.

[TrentW]

Yup, bleed it again. It was fine at first, but now air has settled in the line.

[MF DOOM]

I had similar issues with my clutch, although it isnt spec nor an m30, but the only way I could get all the air out was to open bleeder valve and take the cap off of the master and wait for a steady stream of fluid..

[kamotors]

so re-bled the clutch with a power bleeder and it became easier to slip, but still has the lockout/drag issue.Clutch is engaging just at about 2-3" off the floor which is somewhat normal.

All I have to do to become locked out of gears is approach a stop in neutral. Then when I go to take off I cant get it in any gears.I did discover 2 ways to get it in gear for me.

basically if I stop in gear then place it in neutral it will let me select any gear because the synchros are aligned.

The other way I discovered is that when I'm locked out of gear all I need to do it blip the throttle to around 2krpms and then all of a sudden the clutch disk is free and I can switch gears, its as if the disk has too much friction until I rev it and then it free up and I can go on my way.

It's most definitely clutch drag which is always a bad thing,but I simply dont shift until it lets me as to not harm the synchros.I've never had it grind or clunk when it does shift its very smooth actually. What I'm thinking is as the clutch wears tolerances will loosen and it will free up a bit. the disk is a very tight fit between the pressure plate and flywheel so it takes a bit of a throttle blip to get it to physically slip, as the surfaces wear it should become easier to slip as the tolerances get looser therefore making it easier to engage/disengage. Its a machined face sintered iron disk that unsprung as well. so maybe it just going to be that way.
Here is what spec says about it. (Street drivable but not street-friendly.)

[ForcedFirebird]

You probably can get it in gear with a blip because you are rev matching, not because the clutch is slipping - this is how you shift in an endurance race when the clutch hydraulics give way.

I have run into your same issue several times on various BMW's (from stock to swapped to mismatched parts), and had to remove the trans in all situations. Most of the time it's a customer that changed the clutch themselves and we had to figure out what went wrong. If you have to increase the idle to get it to slip, there's definitely something wrong.

Clutch disk bent

Clutch disk backwards

Shift fork slightly bent

Incorrect disk size for flywheel (he had a 328 someone swapped a Getrag in, ordered a 328 clutch kit)

Worn pivot ball

Wrong slave

You might be able to extend the slave rod a little and band-aid the problem, but if you go too far, the fork will rub the rivets in the pressure plate. The rod just pulls out of the slave, weld some material on the end.

The problem "may" go away with wear, but the clutch doesn't lose much thickness when it is considered worn, and will significantly decrease the life of your clutch.

[kamotors]

Its a 533i flywheel with 533i clutch, 535i slave and 325i master, bad combo possibly?