316 superlite

[petrolhead]

I'll be watching to see what ideas I can steal from you. My car is probably around 1100kg, but I have an aluminum M52 with S52 cams so I make a good amount of power to support the extra weight I have over you. My car started life as a M10 318

Well, a 316 shell weighs the same as a 325iX, so end weight depends only of what you put in the car.

Weight and weight distribution are major considerations in this car. Hence, no 6 cylinders or turbos. Less weight means I can achieve the same grip with narrowed tyres/wheels -which in turn save weight :D. Light front end with sensible width rubber means I can put in a fairly quick unassisted steering without it being too heavy. Only way for really good steering feel I think.


Grinding/cutting the last aluminium nut off of the struts..




Not the next thing on my "to do list", but.. I felt like doing this :):




Sill reinforcement. All fit under floor lining and cabrio sill covering:

[2mAn]

I'll be watching to see what ideas I can steal from you. My car is probably around 1100kg, but I have an aluminum M52 with S52 cams so I make a good amount of power to support the extra weight I have over you. My car started life as a M10 318

[petrolhead]

More attempted repairs, under attempted paint work CLICK !

I got some oil paint (4,99€ :) ) to see if it can be used to check tooth contact pattern:

^Here tested on a junk 168 diff.

Hopefully this collection of shims is enough to find right tension for side bearings:

[petrolhead]

Replacing this in itself would be a quick job. However, every point where it's welded on, is RUSTED. f**k.


...Fast forward to many hours of work later: Checking with fenders If everything is about where they should..




Then put it on with panel adhesive and a few welds.

Took apart the diff. Clutch plates, dog plates, etc all surfaces seemed to be in order:





Thinking of ditching this shim and getting a third friction plate-dog plate pair to replace it:

[F34R]

The amount of rust repairs in here is staggering...bravo, sir bravo.

[petrolhead]

I absolutely love this thread! Great work!

Thanks. Kind words always bring motivation.
This took me a whole weekend. Scraping rust, grinding down old welds, cutting bits, sanding.. Then a coat of primer. Not 100% happy with end result but I can live with it.

[kingston]

I absolutely love this thread! Great work!

[petrolhead]

Old reinforcement welds that I'd forgotten to paint. Now rusty as hell. Nice job scrubbing them. Now painted :)


Attempted body repairs under attempted paint job..

Beautiful. Want ITBs too... I have ones from wrecked Hayabusa, hope I will have money for install them on my M10.

Yep, having a set of ITBs isn't the end of spending money on them. With S14 items a fuel rail, throttle linkage, adjustment instructions, repair instructions, spare parts etc. already exist. That's my reason for using them. Plus the plenum and snorkels are proper items if you ask me. Volume of the plenum and it's inlet hole (100mm) are so big that air velocity will be lowish. I believe it'll help even distribution of air between cylinders. When you only have four cylinders it's important to make them all work for a living and have even filling/mixture.

I happened to find complete repair&adjustment instructions for S14/S38 TB's :)

[Mirek E.]

Beautiful. Want ITBs too... I have ones from wrecked Hayabusa, hope I will have money for install them on my M10. :)

[petrolhead]

Bought an air filter box, from an E36 325i.


DIY thin wall 80mm pipe to replace air mass meter.


S14 injectors and fuel rail arrived. I'll have to figure out a way to plug up the pressure regulator's hole. I'd rather not weld it shut, so I can go back to a normal fuel system if a "returnless" line doesn't work.


I bought a Bosch 0280122001 potentiometer type TPS to replace the original which only has idle/WOT switches. Need to make an adapter for it also.

Higher pressure cap for expansion tank. Nuts for 51mm front struts.


I did this just to see if I can. Oxy-acetylene, anvil and a hammer :). Anyway, 14,5mm rear stabilizer modified so that I can use ball joint-type droplinks.


One mounting hole cut off of the TB flange, water outlet shortened so it won't collide with TPS. The F-shaped water outlet will be welded on to the adapter.


Coolant outlet has a mismatch at the same spot where it makes a sharp 90 degree turn.. Did some grinding to it. Can't hurt coolant flow can it? :)

[petrolhead]

No progress here, boss! I've been repairing a friend's 316i so we'd have something to drive to the E30-meet @ Muurame, Finland . And I've been welding a 1967 Monaco :O

Pics of the 316i reviving if anyone's interested.. http://petrolhead.kuvat.fi/kuvat/BMW+316i+4d/

Well I did touch my own project a bit.. I checked to see if the throttles collide with something when head is mounted to block.

Alternator must be turned all the way down so it doesn't touch the TPS. I'll get a shorter V-belt and save weight .
I bought S14 fuel rail and injectors. I tested a 318i (M10) old 'n used stock fuel pump. It produces ~160 litres per hour against 3,7 bar pressure.. which is way more than my power target's max fuel consumption. So no point in buying a more powerful pump.

..Aand I bought supplies for an adapter. Namely some aluminium plate & fancy screws.

[petrolhead]

I guess these are for adjusting the "throttle by pass" flow?




This weighs a ton :O


Interesting stuff must be done to fit eveything together..


Then I bought an E39 530i fuel filter (with a 3,5 bar regulator) so I can make "returnless" fuel line. OK, the picture is what it is, but fuel lines should go something like this:

[petrolhead]

All thoughts/advice is welcome :).

yea it was valve to valve, just sharing my experience with measuring critical parts. i am tracking that you cont have that problem with a 2 valve head. especially not wiith stock valves. looking forward for more updates

Valves are 46 / 38 mm. They're already so big that with my power target there's no use going bigger. Or so say people who've built M10's. Stock valve edges are very close to.. everything in the combuston chamber.

I bought a set of S14 throttle bodies, inlet "manifold" and other parts. Waiting to get my hands on them. They're pretty oversized for 2 liter engine but.. :D

[meanEG]

yea it was valve to valve, just sharing my experience with measuring critical parts. i am tracking that you cont have that problem with a 2 valve head. especially not with stock valves. looking forward for more updates

[petrolhead]

/\ that is a good idea. I had to deal with that on a VTEC head on an all motor build in a H22. i had to assemble the engine, lock VTEC in and measure valve to valve clearance (hemi head). I had a bad blueprint with oversized valves. luckily i checked, i had to retard the intake cam and retard the exhaust a total of 9 degrees from center to get a .030 clearance. i didnt want to push it any further. i think it robbed me of alot of power.

Is that a typo or do you actually mean valve to valve clearance :). Interesting. In a SOHC engine that's ofcourse not a consideration since LSA is pretty much fixed.

This took a quite a lot of acid/wire brush/sandbalasting/panel straightening/beating-time :)
I just won't paint over a "fairly rust free" place. I'll rather spend the extra hours so when it's under primer I know it's properly done. I'd get nightmares about rust flecks under paint.