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  • litu
    replied
    Wow that color looks epic

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Work in progress

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Originally posted by Panici
    Damn those are big valves!
    Standard 46 and 38mm M10 valves. But yes they are big. BMW engineers must've thought they're vital to getting 105 bhp:)

    Do you plan to flow-test the head?
    No. By all my calculations, I'll exceed my modest power target with everything as is. I just want to get everything together and drive for a change. Mind you, our winters last from October to April, I'll have all the time in the world to build an evo II. Right now, just looking forward to finishing this open wallet surgery for a while.

    Hood.. still in need of some tidying up. A week of back pains screwed up my schedules, so the car went to paint shop without all parts included. Trying to get them there ASAP.


    Shimming the side bearings of an iX diff, after swapping the ring gear and replacing flnge-shaft seals.
    Perävälityksen poskilaakerien pyöritysvastuksen/esijännityksen mittaus.
    Last edited by petrolhead; 02-14-2016, 05:45 AM.

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  • Panici
    replied
    Damn those are big valves! Do you plan to flow-test the head?

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Got this back. New exhaust valves fitted to seats, K-liners installed.





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  • petrolhead
    replied
    All timing gear parts finally present and accounted for. The engine having been out of production for 26 years now might have something to do with poor part availability.. Modified the cam sprocket for timing adjustment


    Bit of an oops moment with oil filter head mounting point. Should be repairable.


    Bit of a problem with the pistons, or rather the machining work.. They're not symmetrical so that each would be 0,9mm over the deck. Should be repairable, needs yet another trip to the machinist :/



    I found that a few valves were not tight to their guides. Took it to a cylinder head specialist shop. They first called that exhaust valves need replacing, then informed that no supplier imports them to Finland anymore ecxept BMW dealership. I found that they're 64€ a piece.. Found a set on Ebay.co.uk for a reasonable price. Well at first they sent me 3 exhaust valves and one inlet :D.
    I ground off the seam sealing stuff from doors' and rear lid's inner edges.. It's only there as an aesthetic thing anyway.. found lots of rust, no surprise there.
    Last edited by petrolhead; 02-07-2016, 06:46 AM.

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Originally posted by EGoman
    Nice job hippie! :-) What color are you going to paint it? Nice to see some progress
    Post #183. Different variations of it exist, I believe. Yellow with a tiny bit of orange would be ideal.

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  • EGoman
    replied
    Nice job hippie! :-) What color are you going to paint it? Nice to see some progress

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Headed for the paint shop

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Waiting for the chain tensioner guide rail to arrive, from your side of the pond. Really bad availability from anywhere in Europe.
    I took the head to local machining shop, they agreed with me that a few valves weren't tight to their guides. I don't know what they are in english, the brass tubes that valve stems are in :). They phoned me that no one imports the valves anymore other than BMW, turned out they're ~64€ a piece. I found a semi reasonably priced set at Ebay.co.uk. Waiting for those too at the moment. And my timing chain is somewhere between Germany and Finland..

    2 component primer paint to rocker panels, rear valance etc. areas that'll then be covered with 2 part sprayable sealer.


    I cut the diffuser area a bit larger yet, because race car.







    Turned out the new front valance came with the narrow bracket above it, included.


    Arrived, finally.
    Last edited by petrolhead; 01-26-2016, 06:49 AM.

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Exhaust manifold will be something like this, quick & dirty.. An old 4-2-1 thing, I had to cut the 2-1 collector off because it was rusted. Really un-equal length primaries, plus I'm guessing the pipe diameter is a bit overkill.





    I'll just cut these where they cross paths, and weld in a 2" pipe.

    That'll do for evo1 of the car. Someday I'll make a fancy equal length primary, stepped 4-1 manifold, but this is it for now.

    OE covering to where the radio's supposed to be


    Oil pump stuff & T-headed bolts for transmission mounting bracket




    I ordered a new front valance but for some reason didn't get this as well

    I'd forgotten how rusty it was.. duh, like everything else in the car!

    Nothing a little sand blasting won't fix.


    I did yet a few calculations and decided that I need to pay another visit to the CNC guy. 1 mm was taken of the dome tops, static compression ratio is now a hair over 12,4:1.

    Compared to stock, assembles pistons are 224 grams lighter a piece.

    Front valance bracket cleaned up. Loads of stuff still to do before paint shop.
    Last edited by petrolhead; 01-24-2016, 01:27 PM.

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Recaros' wiring done, sort of, and their electrics fixed. Sort of.


    People have donated a couple pieces of titanium plate to me. And I can't think of anything cool to make out of it :roll:. As a skid plate they'd make nice looking sparks! :D

    More stuff. Something every day it seems..
    Attached Files
    Last edited by petrolhead; 01-12-2016, 11:35 AM.

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    It's -24 C outside, I decided to sandblast some rust off the doors.
    That's ~-11 Fahrenheit in your money. :) Pressure hoses went kinda stiff and the water separator wanted to freeze over :/
    Passenger side lock cylinder will be deleted as well as the protective thingies that run on the side of the doors. I don't know what they're called in english.

    I told the paint shop people I'd be bringing in the car before the end of the month.
    Pic: few connectors.. for radiator fan, other pair for the engine wiring harness. Easier if I can assemble everything to engine and plug in just one or two connector once the engine's in the car.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by petrolhead; 01-06-2016, 01:26 PM.

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Does anyone have ideas about how to attach the front edge of that roof lining? Normally it would go under the windscreen seal but, alas, I have an M3 screen.. Best I've come up with so far is this:

    I've used that in other applications, it holds surprisingly strong. But I am open to suggestions.

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Something..
    Replaced the crank end bearing

    Clean out 48 year old vaseline, apply some new, press in a new bearing


    New crank rear end seal and flange..


    Flywheel with new bolts


    Had no centering tool on hand but I think it's pretty OK

    Years ago I had the flywheel lightened then balanced with the clutch assembly. It can only be installed in the position they were in, when they were balanced.

    Test fitting the new roof lining
    Last edited by petrolhead; 12-29-2015, 12:53 PM.

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