M3 Rep - the sunk cost build

[reelizmpro]

Why GC's over AST's or Moton's?

Perhaps because he had E36 suspension and needed an E30/E36 hybrid coilover setup like the one GC offers?

[samiam3356]

Ast offers a z3 setup. I had it. Was wondering because a few post earlier he mentioned going the ast route.

[carlb]

Availability. AST 4100's for Z3 are no longer in stock as they transition to the 4150's. The 4150's aren't yet in stock in the US. I have been waiting for several months. Got tired of waiting with an epicly bad lowered suspension.

[carlb]

Oh and moton's are too damn expensive.

[carlb]

Update 6/5/2012

So, once I got everything back together things seemed better. Well, they were better. The ride was awesome. But, I still was rubbing on turning. When I looked more closely, the caster was even worse. Now rubbing slightly going straight! My guess is that the shorter shocks in the GC kit made the caster worse. It is a problem that has to be related to non-M components in the mix. Obviously, had to fix. Parked and put back in garage.

Started another thread for advice: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=250179

Looked some non-M stuff had been mixed with the M bits. Specifically, the M Caliper was put on a non-M spindle by shaving the upper half of the caliper mount. You can see it in the bottom of this pic:


I went in to replace the spindles. I also replaced the control arms as I had a set of 97+ M on hand.


Trying to get the rotor off the front hub assembly, I stripped that little screw on the driver side and couldn't break the passenger side one loose without stripping it. So, I decided to replace the rotors and the wheel bearings/hub assembly while I was in there. They probably had over 100K on them. Might as well.




I get it all back together and the caster is much better but not perfectly centered.



Importantly, it no longer rubs except full lock and only lightly then. So far, I've upgraded:

• Ground control e36 on e30 coilovers
• New tie rod ends (last November)
• 97+ M3 control arms
• 97+ M3 spindles
• New front rotors
• New front wheel bearings/hub assembly
• New control arm bushings / offset

Bought a new radio and steering wheel too. But, those are cheap cosmetics compared to the above outlay of coin.

I've purchased CAB's from IanS_in_Oz that pull the CA closer to the frame rail and should improve the caster on the wheel. Hopefully, they'll come in soon. Although, I'm not looking forward to pulling the suspension apart again.


Onwards... <<still debating whether to stick the s52 in the garage in there and supercharge/turbo it or go all out and put the LS1 I have in my ex's garage in there... decisions... decisions...>>

[freeride53]

Wow wtf did vlad do.

[bmwstephen]

I have to ask... was the m3 c-pillar/ rear quarter panel just overlayed on top of the standard panels or did he actually cut off the quarter panel and grafted the m3 one on?

[reelizmpro]

It would have to be cut out and the M3 c pillar welded in place. The rear windscreen is completely different. The size/shape/angle is all different. Would also need the M3 style C pillar interior trim.

[bmwmech1]

Actually, speaking from the experience I gained from my project, I can say that the M3 C-pillar is indeed a cap that fits over the C-pillar. The quarter panels of the regular E30 and the E30 M3 are exactly the same from the base of the rear window up the C-pillar to the roof skin seam. The M3 C-pillar is a stamped piece of sheetmetal that fits over top of the regular C-pillar and is spot-welded along the roof, down the C-pillar and all around the perimeter of the pinch seam that forms the regular window opening. I have an 87E that I converted to an M3 clone using all new BMW sheetmetal, except for the C-pillar, which was from a wrecked M3 I bought to complete the project. Not boasting, but I probably have a better knowledge of the differences between the regular E30 and the E30 M3 than just about anyone on the planet. I can't speak to how this particular car was converted, but to do it properly requires a fair amount of work, a chunk of change and a little luck in finding some of the NLA parts, even if you do all of the work yourself.

Carl, your caster issue looks much better... if you look at some pictures of stock E30 M3's from the side, you will notice that they have a wheel centerline very much like yours, so you've made progress indeed!

Garey

[Edev]

Man fuck Vlad.

Seriously.

Glad to see the car is finally in good hands.

[carlb]

Carl, your caster issue looks much better... if you look at some pictures of stock E30 M3's from the side, you will notice that they have a wheel centerline very much like yours, so you've made progress indeed!

Garey

Thanks Garey, you've been very helpful sorting through this problem. Really appreciate your quick and cogent responses in the other thread.

And, your car is just badass. I go back to your thread for inspiration whenever the spirit lags!

Seriously.



Glad to see the car is finally in good hands.

Thanks!

[bmwmech1]

Thanks Garey, you've been very helpful sorting through this problem. Really appreciate your quick and cogent responses in the other thread.

And, your car is just badass. I go back to your thread for inspiration whenever the spirit lags!

No problem Carl, I'm glad to see you working through the issues and making the car your own... I remember how shaky the start of your ownership of it was and how people didn't really offer much support, other than to bash the previous owner/builder. You've obviously done a good bit of research and learning since you acquired it and are making solid, well-informed decisions on your upgrades and mods. It should be a smokin' car that most of the naysayers will be jealous of when you're all done with it!;)

Thanks for the kudos on mine, I'm excited about getting it wrapped up and on the street!

Garey

EDIT: Also, since I just read the latest posts on the other thread, I'll give you the ultimate way to get the rotor off, when the screw has it rusted to the hub... Take the caliper loose and move it out of the way, get a BFH and whack the rotor hard from the inside and you will break a hole in the rotor around the head of the screw. Once the rotor is out of the way, you can grab the screw much easier with vice-grips and remove it, saving the hub. Sometimes the screw even comes out by hand...

[reelizmpro]

Actually, speaking from the experience I gained from my project, I can say that the M3 C-pillar is indeed a cap that fits over the C-pillar. The quarter panels of the regular E30 and the E30 M3 are exactly the same from the base of the rear window up the C-pillar to the roof skin seam. The M3 C-pillar is a stamped piece of sheetmetal that fits over top of the regular C-pillar and is spot-welded along the roof, down the C-pillar and all around the perimeter of the pinch seam that forms the regular window opening. I have an 87E that I converted to an M3 clone using all new BMW sheetmetal, except for the C-pillar, which was from a wrecked M3 I bought to complete the project. Not boasting, but I probably have a better knowledge of the differences between the regular E30 and the E30 M3 than just about anyone on the planet. I can't speak to how this particular car was converted, but to do it properly requires a fair amount of work, a chunk of change and a little luck in finding some of the NLA parts, even if you do all of the work yourself.

Carl, your caster issue looks much better... if you look at some pictures of stock E30 M3's from the side, you will notice that they have a wheel centerline very much like yours, so you've made progress indeed!

Garey

Well that does make more sense considering it is spot welded on the roof and has a trim piece covering the top. This is good to know Garey. Any pics? I'm trying to visualize what's going on with the regular E30 window frame.

Edit: nevermind, I saw the pics in your thread. The c pillar appears to be partially cut out.

[carlb]

EDIT: Also, since I just read the latest posts on the other thread, I'll give you the ultimate way to get the rotor off, when the screw has it rusted to the hub... Take the caliper loose and move it out of the way, get a BFH and whack the rotor hard from the inside and you will break a hole in the rotor around the head of the screw. Once the rotor is out of the way, you can grab the screw much easier with vice-grips and remove it, saving the hub. Sometimes the screw even comes out by hand...

Lol. BFH to the rescue! If it happens again, I hope I can remember that trick. :)

[bmwmech1]

Well that does make more sense considering it is spot welded on the roof and has a trim piece covering the top. This is good to know Garey. Any pics? I'm trying to visualize what's going on with the regular E30 window frame.

Edit: nevermind, I saw the pics in your thread. The c pillar appears to be partially cut out.

Barry, I bought Erich Heinrich's wrecked, street M3 from up in Boston just to get the C-pillar and rear windshield. I already had the M3 quarters and slicktop roof skin on the car when I got that M3 to my shop. I basically de-laminated all of the inner structure that was already on my car and used the "shell" of the C-pillar and dropped it right down onto my car and then spotwelded it back on, just like the factory would have. It went back together like a big puzzle, the C-pillar being the final piece. All it requires, once welded back onto the car, is seam sealer across the roof and down the sides of the C-pillar, just like it is from the factory. The trim at the rear of the quarter window is what hides the welds and seam sealer down the sides of the pillar and as you mentioned, the trim strip across the roof hides the welds and seam sealer on top. It's really a pretty cool solution to the aero problems they had on the early E30 race cars... raise the rear deck to raise the wing up into cleaner air, which changes the rear window angle and make a cap for the "new" rear glass mounting. Pretty smart those engineers are, lol...

Garey