FORGED FULLY 🐬 grey S50,shaved, KW, brembos, garret g30/770 fr&rear 5 lug,

[e30m20TurbO7]

I'm only in it about 800.
So far

Unbolt the connecting rod caps then push the rod and piston out of the block. Keep everything in order. Nice find for 300.

[F34R]

Thanks for the tip If I post some pics of my cylinders. Can you tell me if to need to be honed
I'm only in it about 800.
So far

Post up a few pics of the top edge of the cylinders and a downward shot into them with good lighting. But since you have the block out a nice cross hatching would be wise with new piston rings.

When you remove them mark the pistons and rods to the correct cylinder they came from. 1-6 front to back is how I do it when I tear down my blocks. I use a grease marker and just # the block on the outside of the cylinder walls, and on the tops of the pistons. I also suggest if you're removing them to have the block milled.

[e30m20TurbO7]

thanks for the tip 2 cylinders im worried about, the cylinder closes to the firewall still has the original cross hatching on it visible
il snap some pics for all you to see when i have the block dissassembled
this is my first water cooled engine rebuild soo i could use all the help and advise i can get

Post up a few pics of the top edge of the cylinders and a downward shot into them with good lighting. But since you have the block out a nice cross hatching would be wise with new piston rings.

When you remove them mark the pistons and rods to the correct cylinder they came from. 1-6 front to back is how I do it when I tear down my blocks. I use a grease marker and just # the block on the outside of the cylinder walls, and on the tops of the pistons. I also suggest if you're removing them to have the block milled.

[e30m20TurbO7]

also do i need to buy new rod bolts if i rebuilding the bottom end?

Post up a few pics of the top edge of the cylinders and a downward shot into them with good lighting. But since you have the block out a nice cross hatching would be wise with new piston rings.

When you remove them mark the pistons and rods to the correct cylinder they came from. 1-6 front to back is how I do it when I tear down my blocks. I use a grease marker and just # the block on the outside of the cylinder walls, and on the tops of the pistons. I also suggest if you're removing them to have the block milled.

[FLG]

You'll be fine reusing the bolts.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[e30m20TurbO7]

Help Find me pistons

[e30m20TurbO7]

Primer

[e30m20TurbO7]

no support :puppy:
so

[e30m20TurbO7]

my block just got sent in to the machine shop heres the engine bay so far
Short shifter came


I wonder what this is !




My trunk
Wrinkle high temp paint crappy pics

[e30m20TurbO7]

all my rebuilding materials are in the mail
cant wait for my parts

[sayed ali]

Good luck

Nice paint job :)

[kingston]

Paint and seats look great! What paint and equipment are you using for the paint?

[e30m20TurbO7]

i used sem paint code match paint its a paint code match base coat in a can. I shot it would 2 cans they cost 24.64 a peice and they mix it up when you buy it. I'm going to wet sand with 1500 grit then 2000 grit re shoot a wet coat then shoot my clear
all sem products

Paint and seats look great! What paint and equipment are you using for the paint?

[ak-]

also do i need to buy new rod bolts if i rebuilding the bottom end?

You'll be fine reusing the bolts.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

I was under the impression that you're not suppose to reuse connecting rod bolts.

[e30m20TurbO7]

i know thats what i thought. i just dont feel like dishing out the cash for 72.00 bucks in bolts
when mine literally look perfect. But if someone here thinks that my engine will fail let me know.

I was under the impression that you're not suppose to reuse connecting rod bolts.