Pulling it down 4 inches will make the sway bar more parallel to the ground, therefore putting it into a better position than with the stock links. As far as making the car under steer because it’s too "tight", I don’t think that will be an issue. Seeing as the stock sways are non adjustable. When running aftermarket adjustable sways you can adjust to make the bar tighter or looser, effectively changing how the car handles. Dropping the front sway bar down from its current height has to be beneficial as long as it allows the stock sway bar to move and isn’t solid.
Please post pics if you decide to go with the dodge links. I’m really interested seeing as my front sway bar is also in the same predicament as yours.
Vivek's Vert.
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I thought it may cause too much understeer in corners since the front may be too tight. Does that even make sense, or am I misunderstanding it? It seems like the dodge ones could make the front sway MUCH more effective by pulling it down nearly 4 inches.Leave a comment:
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What do you mean may not allow for enough body roll? Are you saying that since the links are soo short it will not allow the swaybar to move as needed? Id say try the dodge ones, it will position the sway bar better than the stock ones. Once an e30 is lowered the link push the sways into an improper position.Leave a comment:
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Well...I didn't install either of them. They fit fine without the metal ring, and the white plastic piece fit really crappily around the strut insert so I didn't put it on. It would be pretty easy to put it on later if someone confirms that it's important.
No pics yet (too lazy right now) but I got the coilovers on front and rear, put on AKG CABs, and an eknight cross brace. I have to say that I literally noticed zero extra vibration or harshness in the steering wheel or otherwise after installing race hardness control arm bushings. I need to upgrade my sway bar end links, I haven't decided whether to go with dodge stratus ones (bolts the sway bar down right by the control arm) or IE adjustable ones. I think the dodge ones may be a bit more effective, but may not allow for enough body roll, which could lead to understeer. Is that logic correct?
These are the dodge links for reference:
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White is a dirt cap that slides down the strut to rest on the top of the housing nut. I believe the metal ring is a spacer to prop the insert to the correct height for uncut housings using the Koni sports.
I could be wrong on all of that^ lol, I never used any of it, nor got them in my packages. I am guessing because I am running custom valved, shortened housings.Leave a comment:
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Koni struts--what are these things and where do they go? There's nothing in the instructions or documentation mentioning them.
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to get that nut off.
oh u need a pipe wrench to get that thing off.Leave a comment:
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Update time. Today was a bit underwhelming. Every fucking thing you do takes 2-4x as long as it should the first time. Cutting the spring perches was no different. I worked for around 4 hours on these today. I got the springs and top hats off (yes with parts flying across the driveway), cut the dust shields and perches, and wire wheeled the tubes so they're pretty clean. Tomorrow I'll fully degrease and paint them, weld on the coilover D rings, and install the front coilovers. I also need to get my AKG CAB's on there. I'll end up doing the rear bushings (subframe, TA's and diff) next weekend most likely. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the front setup finished, put on the cross brace and maybe my new shifter bushings, and throw the rear coilovers on there.
This was harder than it should have been:


Cleaned and done for the day:
I still need to get those damn locking nuts off that hold the strut inserts in. To say the least, they're fucking tight. I stuck it in a vice and tried to twist the whole strut housing, and it just slipped.Leave a comment:
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Looks like next weekend is suspension time. This week i'll order short sway bar end links (from some american car, I'll have to look it up again), 12mm raised subframe bushings and diff spacers, and a new diff mount. Hopefully over thursday evening, all of friday, all of saturday, and maybe buttoning a few things up sunday, I can replace every bushing, put on the coilovers (I've never opened up a strut/spring assembly before, I've only replaced the whole thing), install the cross brace, replace my shifter bushings front and rear (potentially replace my z3m shifter with a shorter z4 one), hopefully clean up my engine bay a bit more and finish cleaning my undercarraige, probably swap my rear pads/rotors and maybe replace my front rotors with less worn ones if I can find a pair laying around....
Sorry for the most convoluted sentence ever.Leave a comment:
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Unfortunately not. I had to get the street kit because of money but it's MUCH better than my original plan of running KYB and Tokico dampers.Leave a comment:

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