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Rebellion Forge Custom Fabrication
1988 325is - TrackRat in progress
Instagram @rebellionforge
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I'm missing something here. What was the exact reason for banhammer-shammalammer-zippidydoo-electric-boogaloo?1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr
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Originally posted by AwakenNoMore View PostI'm missing something here. What was the exact reason for banhammer-shammalammer-zippidydoo-electric-boogaloo?Originally posted by James Crivellone View PostIf you rust that hood i'm banning you from r3v and firebombing that car.Originally posted by 5Toes View Post
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Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View PostThat's why.1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr
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Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View PostDriving a stick doesn't seem like it would be that hard with a prosthetic leg. I mean, I've driven with snow boots on that make it so I couldn't feel the pedal at all. Maybe there is more feeling than I think, but I'm sure you could get used to it. Seems like it wouldn't be much different than walking.
have you ever tried driving a 5 speed using the prosthetic leg toes?
im sure you could do it man.
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ban me or not Im just trying to get my car running again. After running perfect for a while it left me stranded.
yesterday Im cruising down the road and all of a sudden the OBC and my aftermarket deck just start flickering on and off - at a very fast rate! In the days prior I had noticed a dim battery light on the cluster but didnt think much of it, the car has been fine. However earlier in the week I left the ignition on for around 40 minutes and the battery went dead...
Odd, I thought and then I got almost every cluster failure light Ive ever seen - antilock, CEL, battery light, transmission goes into limp mode.. it was NUTS.
I pull off and car wont restart - the starter motor turns for a second then begins to click like a dead battery - as if not enough cranking amps.
Start diagnosing it and find that:
have good battery voltage in the bay
the engine ground works
the battery terminals are tight and clean
I get a jumpbox and am able to get the car started with ease, only to drive another half mile and experience the same symptoms - but this time the engine coughs and dies. It lost the speed and tach, so obviously some main connector is getting fumbled with. Get it towed home.
that night at home I put in a spare Optima Redtop battery and it cranked with ease and idled great. I let it dle for 10 minutes and it was fine and did not flicker the power or anything.
Took it for a spin 30 minutes later and get the same issues again, but am able to get it home and park it. Now when I turn the key (with the fully charged battery) nothing happens except the lights all over the car dim a bit - so the starter IS drawing current. It seems that the road vibrations contribute to the issue.
Tonight I did more diagnosing and pulled the intake manifold off to gain access to starter, etc. I also have been wanting to do my oil filter housing gasket and replace my fuel lines so now is the time for that as well.
At this point in time the car did nothing except the dash would get slightly dim while trying to start. I also noticed that the deck did not want to turn on as well, but the fusible link I had tinkered with by that point.
I removed the 80AMP fusible link and it seems to be fine, no cracks at all and is in one piece looking nearly new.
Top culprits I am thinking are:
1. ignition switch (gotta check for power at starter tomorrow)
2. fusible link
3. bad ground or loose connection at starter/fusebox.
I am at a loss, please help. Thank you. Also, if anybody would like to buy 15 feet of 5/16 GATES Barricade made in USA fuel injection hose for $35 shipped let me know.
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