^ It's the rusted hood causing all your problems.
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You know this is an E30 forum right?
SILBER COMBAT UNIT DELTA (M-Technic Marshal)
RTFM:http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=56950
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Originally posted by not5toes View Postthe starter IS drawing current. It seems that the road vibrations contribute to the issue.
I notice you went and tested/cleaned the power block in the bay like I told you to on FB. But did you test the power wire from the block to the starter 12v start stud? Also test your alternator while running for correct readings to charge the battery and operate the car while in use.~ Puch Cafe. ~ Do business? feedback ~ Check out my leather company ~
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Current cars:
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Originally posted by F34R View PostYou do know that the starter has a relay to open and close when turning over? Once you stop cranking the relay closes and cuts off the power. The starter is not drawing anything, if it was it would turn the engine over via the flywheel. This is proven through testing a starter removed from a car. Give it direct power and it will kick out and function to turn the flywheel. That is the purpose of the relay. You would have a burnt out solenoid if it was turning over all the time.
I notice you went and tested/cleaned the power block in the bay like I told you to on FB. But did you test the power wire from the block to the starter 12v start stud? Also test your alternator while running for correct readings to charge the battery and operate the car while in use.
Tomorrow I plan on:
Checking for power when I turn the key at the starter. The starter may be acting up.
Just so I make sure I am doing it right, I should place the + probe on the positive terminal in the engine bay, and then ground it out on the starter, engine, etc.?
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Originally posted by Pantless Spency View PostYou know we have an e34 dedicated sub forum right? ;)
SILBER COMBAT UNIT DELTA (M-Technic Marshal)
RTFM:http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=56950
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OK - did more work to it this morning.
I removed the alternator, which wasnt very hard I was surprised LOL.
I re installed my original battery (its reading 12 volts) and the 80AMP fusible link. Made sure the connections were tight and then went to the engine bay. I checked the voltage between the following points and got around 11.5 volts +/-.1 at these locations:
alternator + cable and grounded to engine
starter + cable and grounded to engine
positive terminal near fuse box and grounded to engine.
I tightened down the starter bolt and tried cranking it and to my surprise it cranked over (very weakly though because of the battery).
I am running to the store to get some brake cleaner and degreaser, and to get my alternator tested.
Making some major progress and its not even 11AM :)
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Originally posted by not5toes View PostYup its my alternator - took it down to oreilly and had it tested. The asst manager did it and said both times it made a strange/weird whirring noise AND it failed the tests.
Replace it or replace brushes?
You are in over your head, replace it.
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Bearings feel fine - no play and it rotates very easily and smoothly.
Im going to take it apart and examine it, found this article as a general guide - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=516680
A used alternator is $20 so Ill likely go that route. ahaha
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