Ford 5.0 swap into a Bronzit. Update: Now running, VIDEO ADDED.

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  • Thizzelle
    replied
    shit would be funny to see at Wednesday night drags up here.

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  • FunfGan
    replied
    Originally posted by Exodus_2pt0
    Probably saw the new owner. Car has been traded for an E34 535 5 speed. While I very much enjoyed it, the car was not suited well for a DD and.....

    Baby hauler status.
    Luckily he's selling it before he does anything stupid to it, or wrecks it.


    How's the e34 treating you? Looked pretty nice.

    Leave a comment:


  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Probably saw the new owner. Car has been traded for an E34 535 5 speed. While I very much enjoyed it, the car was not suited well for a DD and.....

    Baby hauler status.

    Leave a comment:


  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    I figured this out yesterday through some very focused test drives, but didn't want to post until I was sure.


    Pilot bearing...... Took it apart and found it had become a 2 piece seperated unit, with the bearing itself flopping around behind the bushing that it came mounted in.

    Also cracked the sleeve over the input shaft. Doesn't look bad, and I have no choice but to put it back together that way. It shouldn't get any worse considering the input shaft will now be held in place as it should be, so no more smacking the sleeve all the time. It is literally only a cm long, if it gets worse, oh well, new trans time.

    Cannot wait to drive it home, just got the trans back up to the motor, won't be long now!

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    King cobra was the other one I was looking at. I was thinking the same weight wise, should be good for the extra power.

    Still no chance to pull the trans yet, gotta get a few jobs out of the way first. The car is driving fine as long as I keep the revs low and under 60mph. Which is fine considering I can go up hill at 35mph in 5th gear and take back roads home every day.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    Thats where I'm at now. Coming from the drag racing world I played with automatics a lot more......clutch talk is pretty new to me. I was looking at astroperformance, they have a king cobra clutch that's rated for 450ft. lbs. for under $200. I might be breaking that barrier by a little but with power, but I will also be at around 2500lbs. not the standard 3200 or 3400 whatever the cobra weighs in at.

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    No idea on the clutch. I test drove the mustang before agreeing to the swap, since everything was good to go I decided to not even crack it open. Pulled the entire drivetrain out and dropped it right into the e30.

    If I end up needing a clutch, I have read good things about the ram setups. I will have to go big though so its ready for boost when the time is right.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    ........while I'm at it what clutch are you running? I need to start looking for one for my build.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    did you get the transmission out?

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Changed the oil the other day to find some metal dust in there. Had me concerned at first but I'm hoping that it is just the new distributor wearing in. I inspected the gear and all is well. Steel gear, not cast. Also with 40-50 psi oil pressure at hot idle I'm still hoping for the best internally.

    That said, I played around with revs and clutch yesterday. If I hold the engine at the rpm where is starts to vibrate, and disengage/engage the clutch in neutral a few times, sooner or later the vibrations will disappear completely, until I cycle the clutch again.

    I'm going to pull the trans. Hoping it is a failed pilot bearing, but I won't be surprised if the input shaft bearing is shot as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • IronFreak
    replied
    Keep it up man, you'll get it figured.......although when you find it it'll probably be something that'll smack you in the face making you go DUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHH! HAHAHA

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Massaged the undercarriage a little more today after painting the driveshaft and locating the problem areas.

    For WHATEVER reason, this seemed to help with my vibration issues in the lower end. I don't know why, unless the driveshaft was able to rattle against the body even when sitting still... I honestly couldn't tell you. Also installed a new front u-joint.

    I need to do a little more work as it still starts to hit past 70mph or so, but it is close. I'm still getting a high rpm vibration, curious if it will too be gone once my driveshaft issues are sorted.

    Interesting note, found out today that I have a Jasper short block. Going to find the numbers this week and call up Jasper for the low down. I should be able to find out when it was built, sold, and specs. Possibly from their performance sector? Who knows! Best news is that the Jasper engines are sold with a little over heat indicator on a freeze plug, mine wasn't triggered.

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Meh, I was wrong again lol.

    Once I moved the rotor one tooth, I ended up being out of adjustment range. So apparantly the rotor being off with the timing set at 15-16* was an illusion, because if I move the tooth it is way off. fml.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    oh my bad, I didn't understand you the first time hahaha.

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Lol Thing is, with a timing light it was set dead on 16*.

    Probably firing multiple cylinders at a time though lol. Lucky for me it was past the #1 a bit, so it's safe to say I went full retard on this one.....

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