Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

[pandaboo911]

Hah. I found a guy with the exact same problem who posted his solution. He used a lowe's irrigation marker and rodded out the return siphon. Gotta love forums.

I went and bought one for $2, sharpened the end and stuck it in the return as far as it could go. That seems to have pushed through whatever was in there. I also stuck my compressed air blaster in the fuel hose and held it on with a worm drive clamp and blasted air through the return for good measure. I could audibly hear the rate of bubbles coming out of the siphon increasing as I blasted it with air.

Fuel pressure is now down to a cool 51psi.

I got my hands on a Gates pulley alignment tool and lined up the S/C pulley perfectly. I got my buddy to machine down my old aluminium spacer so my belt issue will hopefully be fixed.

Last thing I gotta do is rewire the intercooler water pump so that it gets a proper ground and replace my CSB. I seem to have installed it backwards.

[pandaboo911]

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns

A lot of work has been going into this car, even though it probably doesn't seem like it. I lost the habit of taking pictures while I work so most of the work I did is undocumented.

I completely re-did the BPV circuit, which was 3/4" npt previously, and it was causing some bucking at high rpm when I let off the throttle. The 1/2" ID hose couldn't handle 13-15psi. (In worse cases this causes compressor surge and can snap the compressor shaft) it's all 1" hose all the way through now

I also replaced the couplers with 4 ply. The previous ones were cut really poorly by the PO of this supercharger. Here's the completed bay. Still need to fix the radiator mounting.


I finally installed my euro fog lights as well. This was a massive pain. My Mtech 1 front did not have the fog mounts. I had to make up my own.

The mounts are basically t-nuts that are expoxied to the plastic. I chose t-nuts because they have a large surface area for the epoxy to hold onto.



I'm re-doing my exhaust. The rear section is worn through the pipe and causing some annoying drone. I've gotta remove the headers to weld on a set of V-bands and replace the damaged section of pipe. For now i welded the pipe shut and painted the whole thing. I'm gonna have a friend do the exhaust since that's what he does for a living



Not much space to remove the headers. It's a huge pain.


Here's the painted exhaust. It's all 1 piece.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mistacarder]

this might have been answered in previous posts but have you had the car dyno'd?? I am consodering dropping the ball on a supercharger...

Nevermind!!! awesome build!!!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Every time I click this build it compels me to look for used S/Cs to throw on mine...

Never noticed until now that you relocated the coolant reservoir and PS res. I like that. Did you use the euro hard pipe that routes from the WP around the back of the block to get to the coolant res?

Also never heard of this gates pulley alignment tool; I'm going to look it up. It took me ages to get the pulley lined up just right on my e36 to keep the belts from getting torn up.

[pandaboo911]

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns

Every time I click this build it compels me to look for used S/Cs to throw on mine...

Never noticed until now that you relocated the coolant reservoir and PS res. I like that. Did you use the euro hard pipe that routes from the WP around the back of the block to get to the coolant res?

Also never heard of this gates pulley alignment tool; I'm going to look it up. It took me ages to get the pulley lined up just right on my e36 to keep the belts from getting torn up.

You can always buy mine.. Haha. If I did it again I would have done a turbo. People say you always do a turbo the 2nd time, after finding out how much better it is than a supercharger. They are right :)

The coolant res has the feed line running behind the engine over the transmission. There's plenty of room back there. The hose is wrapped in aluminum tape to prevent abrasion. The PS lines are also looped around the back. They're all wrapped in fiberglass insulation where they pass the headers. The overflow line runs up the fender into the wiper motor/blower housing and then exits again on the other side.

I borrowed the gates tool from a friend who runs an auto repair shop. I was digging through his tools and found it. He didn't even know he had it lol. You could also build your own; It's just a laser pointer strapped to a round bracket that sits on the pulley's ribs. That could be achieved with a flat piece of aluminum bent around the pulley with a laser pointer epoxied to it. The only important part is calibrating it.

It's calibrated with a sheet of paper with a straight line printed on it. Really simple shit considering it costs like $80. I don't think it's worth the price tag, I used a straight edge and got pretty much the same result.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Don't tempt me!!!!!! I know that's the common wisdom, but I kinda feel like the turbo might be too much for an e30 that I like to autox and track. On an e36, I think turbo is definitely the way to go after driving mine with a SC for a few years. But I kinda feel like a SC would suit the characteristics of the e30 better - linear predictable power band. But that's just me.

Coolant res stuff sounds good. I might do that on mine, but I'd really like to use that euro hardpipe around the back of the block.

Yea, sounds like I could replicate that tool pretty easily with stuff lying around. Never thought of doing something like that until now though!

Thanks for the inspirations :D

[mistacarder]

You can always buy mine.. Haha. If I did it again I would have done a turbo. People say you always do a turbo the 2nd time, after finding out how much better it is than a supercharger. They are right

Why would you say turbo is better? Inwas thinking about getting a supercharger

[pandaboo911]

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns

Why would you say turbo is better? Inwas thinking about getting a supercharger

Full boost at 3000 rpm instead of 7000

[pandaboo911]

I was fiddling around with my wideband o2 install with no luck on getting it working, so I took a break and did something relaxing instead.

I had replacement shift and ebrake boots sitting in my closet for over a year and forgot about them. Here's how i installed them.

Start with the boot frame


Place the frame inside the boot, try and center it, and leave a good amount of excess under the frame, then mark the teeth/pins with a sharpie
The wider side of the frame should have the seam, narrower side has stitching.


Other side




Cut where you marked with a blade. I cut about 1.5cm slots, or the width of the cutter I was using


Slide the teeth through the slots you cut


Now cut off the excess. Take your time with this, leave more than you think you need. You want plenty of fabric to overlap. Also be careful cutting the corners, don't cut too deep.


Here's how much excess I had


The scraps


Now test fit the boot into your console, fold over all the edges, I started with the bottom and slid that in first. If you're happy with the result grab some CA glue, and just dab the frame on the corners, top, and bottom. Put the boot into the console before the glue dries and it'll be pressed nice and tight while it dries.


Now the ebrake, this one was a little harder, I had to remove the center console piece to get it to work.

Step one is fold out the seam and try and press it flat to get a better idea of where the frame goes.


This is the frame

Notice again there's 2 sets of teeth. So mark, cut and leave some excess.








The boot was a very tight fit into the console. The teeth in front weren't able to hold the frame in because of the amount of excess leather under them. I removed the center console and bent the front pins over the frame to keep it attached. This will make removing it difficult, but removing the center console is one nut anyway.

Here's how they are bent, just 180 degrees over the plastic of the console.


Finished product

[pandaboo911]

Got my A/C working today. Here's the list of stuff I did to make it work.

E36 134a Compressor
Parallel Flow condenser
16in 2400 CFM Spal fan
r134a expansion valve
r12 dryer w/ low pressure switch bypassed, retained r12 high pressure switch. (This is the cheap way to do it)
Lines:
Suction Line: E30 r12 line with e36 compressor fitting crimped on
Discharge Line: E30 318is r12 line with e36 compressor fitting welded on
The rest of the lines are all original R12 with green o-rings.

I'd say total cost to get it working was $400. The majority of that cost was the condenser and getting the line crimped and new hose added.

Contrary to what the internet said, the 318is discharge line will not bolt up with the e36 suction line, they will interfere. The 318is line is too short to bend out of the way, and ended up cracking trying to bend it. I welded the e36 fitting onto the end.

The violet wire from AC switch is hooked to AC compressor clutch. I hooked up the idle signal from the e36 DME but my idle is about 1000rpm with a l/w flywheel so I don't need the idle bump.

I ended up adding about 25oz of freon, with 30psi low side and 180 high side. I'm not sure exactly how much freon was added since the shitty 134a can I got from the parts store had plastic fittings and half the freon leaked out. Can cost $60.. Dont buy the cans that come with fill hoses, they suck. Also sorry atmosphere/ozone, it's not my fault they put garbage leaky plastic fittings on regulated refrigerant cans

I don't have a thermometer but the A/C is just as cold as my F-150's A/C system. I'd assume somewhere in the low 40 F. It's pretty cold so I'm happy with the r134a.

Anyone that has questions regarding getting your A/C working feel free to PM me

[MC Hammered]

The violet wire from AC switch is hooked to AC compressor clutch. I hooked up the idle signal from the e36 DME but my idle is about 1000rpm with a l/w flywheel so I don't need the idle bump.

Do you have pics or colors of the wires you ran to the DME as I'm still trying to sort out my AC and get the idle bump happening.

[pandaboo911]

Do you have pics or colors of the wires you ran to the DME as I'm still trying to sort out my AC and get the idle bump happening.

The idle for me stays perfectly at 1000rpm with the compressor off and on, so I'm not sure if it's actually functioning, since the ecu would bump it to 1000rpm during A/C on. This means rpm would not change. The idle is bumped to 1000rpm because of the supercharger's parasitic nature, it's also extremely loud below 1000rpm. :P

The way I have it setup is the Purple/Gray wire on the ECU, I think it was pin 64, is wired to the purple wire of A/C switch, providing 12v when the button is pressed. Black/Gray on pin 65 is grounded at all times.
Pin 65 would normally be connected to the pressure switch on the e36, its the compressor cut out, if there's no ground there the ECU will think the compressor is off.

My DME is a 506 but it shares the same pinout as a 413.

I can disconnect the compressor and test if the idle moves when I press it, but beyond that I can't verify that it's working, sorry.

What you could do is ground 65 and connect 12v to 64 briefly without the compressor connected and see if idle moves.

Here's the diagram of the compressor control circuit.

The left side shows the pressure switch input, that tells the ECU if pressure is too high or low. Ground that to simulate the pressure valve.
The middle shows the A/C switch coming from e36 climate control unit, it sends 12v to pin 64 when A/C is required.
The right side is how the ECU controls the compressor. Since we are using the e30 A/C switch purple wire to control compressor directly, we don't need that.

[MC Hammered]

Thanks for the detailed reply and it gives me a clearer picture of how everything should get triggered.

If you are able to disconnect your compressor to verify if the idle changes that would be great as I would then finally have proof that the ECU is reacting.

[pandaboo911]

Thanks for the detailed reply and it gives me a clearer picture of how everything should get triggered.

If you are able to disconnect your compressor to verify if the idle changes that would be great as I would then finally have proof that the ECU is reacting.

Sure I'll try it next time I get a chance. Right now I can't start the car because it's open header and the neighbors will not be happy. Going Friday to get the exhaust welded back up.

[jpod999]

Contrary to what the internet said, the 318is discharge line will not bolt up with the e36 suction line, they will interfere. The 318is line is too short to bend out of the way, and ended up cracking trying to bend it. I welded the e36 fitting onto the end.

LOL shit so all that time sitting in traffic for no reason?!