Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

[Kershaw]

Really great build, video sounds awesome.

But, there is absolutely nothing wrong with pressing out old ball joints on control arms and pressing new ones in. There is no milling required. I've done it so many times on my IXs throughout the years because IX control arms are really hard to find and new ones are really expensive. They withstood 2 years of hard rallycrossing so I don't think there is any truth to replacing balljoints compromising control arm strength. I would go back to the m3 control arms and replace the ball joints. If you have a press and the right arbors it doesn't take any time at all.

[pandaboo911]

I built some sway bar links, the stock length m3 links were 2” too short. I used some McMaster rod ends, here’s the part numbers. Installed this electronic boost controller so now my boost is TRU Doesn’t seem to spool any faster than the manual boost controller though, maybe like 100rpm

[pandaboo911]

[pandaboo911]

I painted mine with Duplicolor black vinyl paint, came out great: It comes in gloss black and matte, I think I went with the matte.

Thanks! I’ll give it a try

[Albie325]

I painted mine with Duplicolor black vinyl paint, came out great:



It comes in gloss black and matte, I think I went with the matte.

[pandaboo911]

Messing around with the brake bias adjuster I backed the knee panel with a steel tie down plate and jb weld. It’s ugly but it works. Made it nice and rigid. Also added some to the other mounting holes Anyone painted one of these trim panels? Trying to find a paint that will somewhat match the rest of the interior.

[pandaboo911]

The wrap keeps the newly born hrsprs warm before they go out into the world and achieve great things.

[pandaboo911]

Had my friend Marcus @ MFR tig weld the exhaust. He always does a superb job. However I didn’t plan ahead and the downpipe wouldn’t slide back in with the wastegate dump welded on. Luckily I have another spare 3” v-band so I chopped the downpipe and added another clamp. Should make removal/install somewhat easier.

[pandaboo911]

Threw in some new control arms. I looked into rebuilding the old e30 m3 ones but it seems there's no safe way of getting the old ball joints out.
It would require milling the back of the balljoint and pressing in a new one which could compromise strength







Painted strut housings






Finished up the catch can



I just looked at my recent posts and they are all formatted terribly. Thanks Tapatalk.
Sorry about that

[pandaboo911]

Shortening the 51mm housings, really learned a lot doing this. The key to welding seems to be in the prep work. First I chopped the housings using the chop saw at work. Cut out 1.5” exactly. Going from 15.5” to 14 These struts already had some collars welded on, but they were crooked and in a bad spot so I cut them out. In the bottom of each strut us a ~1.8” spacer to get the shocks to the right height. Koni calls for a spec of 1-4mm between the collar nut and top of strut. I wanted the threaded sleeve to come as far down as possible without removing the sway bar bracket, so the collar had be welded at the same spot the struts were chopped. The welds that join the strut pieces were ground down and the collar placed on top. Tacked it and got it square Welded Another little thing I’m working on is a catch can. I didn’t want to shell out $100+ for one so I decided to get a $25 eBay special and modify it. I milled it out to fit one of these noise suppressor things. And this little baffle Also added a drain, slightly crooked lol

[pandaboo911]

Planning on shortening strut housings 1-1.5” My struts already have collars welded on for threaded sleeves. Are these usually welded at the same height as the stock spring perch? I can’t really tell on mine. Anyone have a tip on where to chop them and still retain the m3 sway bar link? Above or below the spring perch? There’s only about 1” clearance below the perch to the sway bar mount, so getting in there to weld will be difficult. These coil overs are up for grabs if anyone in the Bay Area is interested

[pandaboo911]

Finished fabricating the wastegate dump I’m redoing the front suspension. Swapping out the 45mm strut housings for 51mm, which I should’ve done a long time ago. So I have a set of shortened 45mm strut housings with bilstein sport dampers for sale. They are iX length. Comes with camber plates that add lots of caster. Will post pics soon.

[pandaboo911]

Did some painting Also sold a car so more funds have been acquired for this project! I want to do a full respray. Debating on colors atm.

[pandaboo911]

Scum class 318 + Mtech + vortech v2 + unicorns - vortech + Turrrrbo

Got the back section tacked, I was playing a bit with the amount of stickout on the tips. I wanted them to stick out but it ended up looking kinda dumb so I made them flush

The professional workstation haha. I think I should’ve gotten a miter saw before starting, would’ve saved a lot of time, also would’ve saved my fingers from numerous cuts






I thought the stick out looked stupid lol, went with a more oem look


They just barely poke out





Ignore the shitty tack welds :D




Last piece is the wastegate dump. I’m trying to have to merge back into the DP. It’s tight in there so it’s gonna be a challenge.

[pandaboo911]

exhaust is looking good. where did you get the oval piping? welding under jackstands is the worst!!

Everything is from summit racing. They sell it in 4’ lengths.

The flex bellows are from eBay.

Yeah welding under the car really sucks.