RedMeat: LS6 Powered, M3 Flared, LTW Project - SOLD
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widebody has been sold... my feelings are indifferent.
it's so sad and naked, i need to get it rolling now.

although, i'm not entirely sure what the future holds for this project.
- make it wider & properly finish the build, for about $20k
- make it wider & tame down the build, for about $11k
- get an E9xM3 for daily/hpde after i graduate next may for ~$35k
all options are expensive.
the M3 could be driven every day and still taken to a couple track days/autox events
the E30 would be driven maybe 20 days a year but be a god damn riot to drive
i have some thinking to do..Leave a comment:
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i know! i was all worried about the 'donk' look but i love how this wheel looks.
the plan is to run these at first and then turn them into the street set when i can afford apex/r compounds
that's what i'm thinking too, i'm gonna stack some spacers up and see how far it needs to go OUT to clear the frame rail, then i know how much i'll need to take off the frame rail to clear lock to lock. the fender/skirt is already filed down a bit but i don't really want to chop it up but the fact of fitting meaty rubber on the front is more important than looks lolLeave a comment:
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How much would you have to shave off the rail/back of the fender to clear?
I feel like if you have to have a lot it would be better to notch the frame and have smooth body panels.
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Nomnom. Can't wait to see the body all done. 18s don't look too big at all compared to some 17s on regular-bodied e30s.Leave a comment:
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I got the ESR wheel in and did a quick test fit on the front passenger side.
I kept the same 10mm spacer on the hub from when the 9.5" APEX were installed. Meaning the setup is 285/30-18x10" et15.
I love the little poke that it has although it can't turn at full lock because it hits the rear part of the frame rail, the front will be taken care of with a tube frame. The two options I can think of off the top of my head are:- Space it out ~10mm more and trim the fender and skirt to clear the wheel being turned
- Notch the frame somehow ~10mm to allow me to go full lock on a 10" wheel and not chop up my body panels
Anyways, onto the pictures. The closeup with the greaseball on the wheel is how close I am to the fender and skirt.








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i dare you :p
Well, I ordered an 18x10 et25 ESR wheel, it'll be here Monday and I'll throw a Yokohama A048 285/30-18 on it. I will then MAKE it fit on all four corners. No excuses.
Other than that, I think I have a plan together for the LS and I'm hoping for 400rwhp/400rwtq numbers at the minimum. I'm not gonna do an 'all-out' build on it right now, instead I'm going to take the money I would spend forging and making it badass and set that aside to buy an LS7 later down the road once I learn how to handle this car.
Instead I'm planning on:- Refreshing the whole engine (bearings, rings, gaskets, hardware)
- LS6 heads to complete the bastardized LS1/6 setup that comes in the GTO
- Medium cam (thinking of a 228/232 .585/.595 112 LSA), appropriate valve springs/push rods, and a comp trunion kit
- Port the LS6 intake, throttle body, maf, and possibly the LS6 heads
- ATI damper and electric water pump
- High flow oil pump, C5R timing chain, and LS2 chain tensioner
- Custom IronFreak headers and oil pan
Building the motor like above shouldn't cost me too much for what I will be getting out of it but I'm really hoping to get by without forged pistons/rods.
I began transmission research too and it's going to cost a bit but it will be bulletproof, for my goals. I'm looking at the Tremec TKO600 Road Race and a Tilton 52-33130 bellhousing/clutch combo, it is a 5.5" triple disk setup with a reverse starter.

Expect pics once the ESR is mounted!Leave a comment:
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^that. Grease prints and crap all over it would be a pain. Unless they have some grease resistant matte paint out? I have no idea.
edit:
found thisLeave a comment:
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Matte red would be cool but a bitch to keep clean for a track car I betLeave a comment:
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Where did you get that socket "organizer" from? I've been meaning to get one like that.
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