Makes me want to learn sheet metal work..
Awesome.
Awesome.
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1989 M3
2008 135i 6sp -
Does the diff just hang from those four little tabs? Is there anything else that locates it? I'm obviously not seeing the finished installation, but it seems like there would be a lot of flex there.Originally posted by Malcolm@RestorationDesign View Post
(2002 noob)Comment
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The diff is pinched between the subframe and the body hangers .... the pictures in the link below should help clarify.Originally posted by LateFan View Post
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Oh I see - plenty o' steel there. Thanks -Comment
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Hello again, BMW2002FAQ! It's been too long!
It's very fun! Seeing something coming together is such a satisfying thing for the "maker" types among us. We've started a "Project Starters Anonymous" group around here, to help keep us all focused on what we've got going rather than constantly starting new things. (motorcycles, Porsches, now there's a space frame 356 being talked about, but shhh)Originally posted by dball4 View Post
But anyway, I'm back to give you all an update on this fun 1802 build. Without further ado, let's jump right in!
Today we're going to be replacing the frame rails and front floors. As you can see, they've been patched before, but have rusted around the old patches because someone only tacked the patches in, and didn't run a bead of weld around the outside to seal them in.
Now, before we started cutting out the frame rails and floors, we needed to move the bolt point on our rotisserie while still keeping support in the area. (we don't want anything twisting)
Once everything was properly braced, it was possible to remove the old frame rails and then cut out the floors. I don't have any photos of fitting the new frame rail. :(
We also had to remove some of the inner rocker, you can see on the left side. We rolled the proper indentation into the panel and welded it in.
Here we are fitting the new floor panel in. The butt weld clamps are used again here to stop the metal from warping when it's tacked into place and to ensure a perfectly smooth transition.
Here's another angle, with more butt weld clamps (and some C clamps) in place, just to be safe.
Next we had to make a small patch panel for the pedal area, which was rusted beyond what the floor panel replaced. You can see the remainder of the old patch that still needs to be cut out. Very poor work was done before. :(
We clamped this into place and then welded everything together!
PASSENGER SIDE!! All the same techniques applied on this side. We replaced the frame rail by drilling out the spot welds all around the outside, then welded a new one into the same position. Then we trimmed the floor to fit the new repair panel and clamped it in!
On this side, we also had to make a new corner piece for the floor well area. We had to roll a more complex curve into this side, but it turned out quite well. You can barely see what was wrong!
Well, there you have it!! Floors and frame rails completed in the 1802. Not the most difficult repair, but you have to go slow and make sure the rest of the car is secured. You don't want to fit out later that something moved and your suspension is out of alignment!
Up next is the nose and front strut towers! Stay tuned!
Last edited by Malcolm@RestorationDesign; 04-02-2014, 08:37 AM.
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How am I just now seeing this! This is awesome, I want to see more!Comment
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Thanks man! The final product is going to be wild, so we need to have a perfect shell to start out.Comment
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Hey all!
Been a little while, but I've got out next How To video up and going!
A lot of these procedures will apply to all you E30 guys doing floor replacements, since the frame rail and floor structure is very similar.
Check it out!
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