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My turbo 24v alpine coupe
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About a month ago I bought these wheel alignment plates on amazon because im too cheap to pay for an alignment. I did a customer car first and it turned out pretty well.
Spent like 2 hrs getting the front toe and camber correct. Before the alignment camber was -3, -2 (full degree of cross camber) and total toe was like 2 full degrees. the car was pretty hard to control. any slope or dip in the road and it would
now I have 0.3 degrees of total toe in and about -1.9 degrees of camber on both sides. Cant wait to drive it. im just a little worried that the wheels stick out ALOT more from having less toe in and camber. Might up the front camber a tad.
hoping to get the car on the lift after work today and start knocking out the next stage in making it reliable:
-remove valve cover so that I can mark the hole for the vanity cover from 22rpd and mill it out for the pcv fitting
-remove vanos and fix the threads in the corner bolt hole that are causing the current leak
-put a new 80 degree thermostat in and chase down a potential coolant leak.
might take out the cams and verify torque on the head studs too, seems to be some seepage from the corners. Cant wait to rebuild with no copper spacer and just run e85.
It really bothers me that there is an oil leak on this car. I am trying to take it to streetcar takeover at Zmax at the end of the month(booth car). Hopefully i can put it on the dyno before then and tune it. It has some hotstart issues (gotta feather the throttle) and some tip in issues (stumbles a tiny bit at tip in) but besides that shes a rocket. the kinda car that you look down at the speedo and hope theres no cops around because its just too much fun to slow down.
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Originally posted by haaken675 View PostYou have a pretty similar setup to me. Out of curiosity, do you know what your car typically sits at temp wise? I am trying to judge if mine is getting too hot or if I am just paranoid.
cruising is like 160-170 (too cold), idling and pushing it its like 180-190 which should be normal. The VEMS reads in C so i have to convert to F because america.
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That trim piece bothered be enough that i needed to fix it. The clips on the trim are gone and I cant find them or the whole trim piece. I cant take credit for this as i believe i saw someone else do it on here but it worked.
IMG_1414 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
i might have welded aluminum to steel with stainless wire but its just a tack. needs some adjustment but it worked (its too far forward)
IMG_1415 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
not bad for a lunch break project.
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Originally posted by haaken675 View PostI might have a problem then, lol...
what fan and rad setup do you have? I have the ebay mishimoto (cx racing or whatever) with a 16" spal fan controlled by the ecu to turn on at 80 degrees i think. mine sits at like the first hashmark on the dash when cruising on the highway and a little below the middle line when idling or in traffic.
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HUGE UPDATE:
Ill try and do this in chronological order.
Friday: went to finish rolling the fenders some more and then took a look at my rear pads. The outside pad on each side had ZERO friction material. Luckily I had a set of meyle pads sitting around I was planning on using for the secondary caliper. Explained why there was so much noise in the back from the brakes. I need new rotors pretty bad tho. I think these are warped.
Second was by far one of the most satisfying things ive done on this car besides the first drive. The fuel vent line cover was super rusty, I have a scar on my hand from it cutting me.
IMG_1470 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
The new peice was WAYY expensive for a piece of stamped metal but way worth it. around $110. I had to though.
IMG_1471 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
My front fenders are so messed up. but i rolled them in order to reduce the rubbing a little. Rears got a little more rolling. Now it only really rubs on hard bumps and hard turns. No more collection of tire on my rear fenders after every drive.
Post roll glamour shot
IMG_E1445 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
Saturday: Went to cars and coffee in greenville SC. This was the longest drive distance wise that I have completed in the car. I must say, since the alignment, it drives pretty straight to the point that i can cruise with my hands off the steering wheel.
IMG_1473 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
Car got alot of attention at cars and coffee. Im not very ego driven but it really feels nice to see a crowd of people around the car. The blue mustang next to it is my coworkers 2018 GT with the new edelbrock supercharger on it (a smidge under 700whp on 93). Once my car is tuned we are going to line up and see whos faster. BTW if you have any mustang friends, have them take a look at our sister company Long Tube Headers. There all made in house by us here at CP-E, full header back exhausts from the 4.6 new edge all the way to the 2019 GT, made in america, lifetime warranty.
Post Cars and Coffee:
I had a coolant leak and an oil leak. I was pretty sure the oil leak was from the vanos at the cylinder head. So, off came the turbo, valve cover and vanos. I rethreaded all the holes in the cylinder head and put some loctite on the studs. Was a little more generous with the sealant this time. I also installed the 88 degree thermostat instead of the 80 that was in there. I am hoping that will fix my issue of running at like 70 degrees C on the highway.
I wanted to knock all of this out at once so that I could install my 22rpd vanity cover. While the cover is really bolt on, I have my crankcase vent sticking out the top of the valve cover. In order to make the cut in the vanity cover accurately, I had to remove the valve cover so that I can get the PCV fitting out and mark it from the inside.
The hole still didnt come out as centered as I had hoped, but it fit. measure once, cut once, then get upset cuz you messed up.
IMG_1485 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
Put the car all back together and.... still doesnt fit. Compressor housing is just too damn big. Out comes the angle grinder.
58293636954__2238BB6B-8D8E-4E50-A2A4-7C71AD3EBCC3 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
I wish i made a cleaner cut but its really hard to see anyways.
Finished product is BAD ASS
IMG_1494 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
IMG_1490 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
IMG_1487 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
Finished putting it all back together and started it up about 20 minutes ago. Fixed some little things while i was in there like the routing for the o2 sensor wire. Also checked the headstuds. They were all still pretty good at 75 ft lbs, put them all up to 80ish to get ready for tuning. Alot of people running the cutring seem to do 85 ft lbs, but i really worry about over-preloading ARP 2000's as they WILL break.
Also today, wirewheeled my extra rear brakes so i can paint them, put them back together ect. I may just put them on today as well. I am thinking that by installing these, I can rebuild the other ones while these are getting used, so that when i drop the rear subframe to fix a few things, Ill be closer to being ready. Also itll be nice to have the upgraded brass slider bushings. The manual brakes kinda suck. My foot hurts after a long drive.
Overall, drove the car to and from work 3 days this week. shes pretty reliable. Driving it to concord for Street Car Takeover next weekend which is like 75 miles each way (booth car what what!). Feel alot better about it now. Cross my fingers no more leaks. I know its alot to ask to have a 30 year old car with no leaks, but after all the work in this thing, i dont think thats much to ask.
Next on the list:
Rear end project:
-weld in secondary caliper, trailing arm reinforcement, secondary diff bushing, install subframe washers, new rear rotors, new rear wheel bearings
Front euro trim and new rear bumper trim (lost one of the front sidemarkers on the way back from cars and coffee)
Finish compounding and polishing
front fender solution
FIA certified seats
Works picking up like crazy (builds and tuning) plus the GF is moving down here from MD at the end of July so im moving from my current house to an apartment so updates might be slow, but i can drive it whenever i want, weather permitting.
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well, 375whp and 360ft lbs on my hearbreaker mustang dyno. Still much more to tune. This intercooler setup sucks. 160 degree charge air temps. Dyno is usually 15% lower than dynojets, so shes in the 400's easy.
IMG_1512 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
more tuning, trying to get the fans directed at the intercooler better.
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Originally posted by jeenyus View Posti'm curious about the vanity cover for the valve cover. is it just a vanity cover or are there benefits to it? I think it looks great and makes me think about the m20 a little bit. I bet you could create something like this easy for them.
Nonetheless, yea.
1. protects the coilpacks from the downpipe (not as valid on the m20)
2. it reaches over the exhaust side of the head and over the valve cover gasket, which helps protect the gasket from exhaust heat where it needs it most.
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