thanks! i got em for pretty cheap tho so i think "beater" can still apply.
Pics to follow but i think i figured out my trans issue. All of the flywheel bolts were loose and one fully backed out. Replacing the rear main while I am in there as I think that was leaking too. What the hell was I thinking when I did all of this the first time.
My turbo 24v alpine coupe
Collapse
X
-
Heh, that's quite the set of "beater wheels." The contrast with the red paint is nice.Leave a comment:
-
This is with 18mm spacers in the front (well a 8 and 10 stacked). I am not actually going to run 2 Non-wheel centric spacers on this car. I ordered 2 sets of Motorsport hardware 20mm track-lite spacers for it, which makes my effective offset et10. Its crazy that even though the fronts are both 225 and 16x9, the r888 on the OZ's are huge in comparison.
Untitled by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
I am digging the look. Never going to get rid of the oz's, but its super nice to have a set of beater wheels.Leave a comment:
-
-
Yea that's a beautiful picture. Almost looks like you have fender flares on. Those are just rolled right?Leave a comment:
-
Mitch-e30_09 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
Just needed to pat myself on the back for a second but I am in love with this picture of my car.
Also, something is wrong with the trans. Making all sorts of cool sounds. And the rear main seal is leaking. Fun times.
Leave a comment:
-
wish i could help man. Never had issues with this sensor yet. Maybe it has to do with the fact that the tune isnt dialed in. Once you get some timing in there and fuel dialed in, you won't foul the sensor from all the fuel and high EGT's.
I know I'm digging a bit here, but what O2 sensor are you running that can handle 1030 C? I'm on my 3rd Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor in about 2 weeks of my car barely even running. The longest lasting one lasted for about 2 hours of street tuning then died on startup 2 days later. I have my bung in a similar location about 6" back from the turbo.
At this point my only other idea is a homemade copper heatsink plate. I'd love your input because I think this is the last sensor AEM is going to send me...
Edit: I realize now that we're running the same sensor. Well now I'm stumped.
You can also check this out as well
https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/...cat=250&page=2
Is your wideband controller showing an error code?
Keep in mind, if its not reading on startup thats normal, she needs some heat in her.Leave a comment:
-
I know I'm digging a bit here, but what O2 sensor are you running that can handle 1030 C? I'm on my 3rd Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor in about 2 weeks of my car barely even running. The longest lasting one lasted for about 2 hours of street tuning then died on startup 2 days later. I have my bung in a similar location about 6" back from the turbo.Are you saying that so that the sensor doesnt overheat?
I totally understand where your coming from. However, Bosch suggests that you run the o2 sensor in the hottest place it can take. The sensor im using can handle bursts of 1030 C.
While I have heard in the past that 6-18" is what is suggested, alot of the OEM's are moving the wideband closer and closer to the turbine housings. On alot of the downpipes I work with at work, we have had no issues running them less than 6" from the housing.
On the other hand, the farther you have it out, the longer it takes to warm up and the longer the delay is between the exhaust leaving the cylinder and hitting the o2 sensor. This is usually negligible while in boost, but the less mass airflow you have the longer it takes to hit the o2 sensor (generally). Some of the new ecu's I work with compensate for this but my ecu doesn't.
I wish I was a badass mofo who would put backpressure and EGT sensors in each runner and in the collector and wastegate tube.
At this point my only other idea is a homemade copper heatsink plate. I'd love your input because I think this is the last sensor AEM is going to send me...
Edit: I realize now that we're running the same sensor. Well now I'm stumped.Last edited by the_eskimo_wonder; 08-23-2019, 11:09 AM.Leave a comment:
-
Honestly 16x9 ET30 sounds beautiful. 245's are so tight in the rear with ET15 that I have my GE coils maxed out in the rear so I don't rub a ton... Much easier to space the wheel out from ET30 than to try to bring a wheel in further, but probably need a 20mm spacer up front.Leave a comment:
-
I got super impulsive one morning and scored a set of 1552 Formula TR's for like 500 shipped new. 16x9 et 30 and a set of indy firehawk 500's in 225/50/16. Test fit didnt go so well. Rear's are like a c-hair from the trailing arm and the front's touch both the strut and the brakes with 12mm (or 13mm?) spacers. They look pretty good. I was hoping to have these as a set of "beater" tires because i ran through like half my r888's in those burnout videos. I am starting to regret not just buying new tires for my racing dynamics to save money.
Fronts
IMG_1689 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
IMG_1688 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
yea i know my drivers fender is F'ed. Left for work one day and forgot something, pulled back into the driveway and ran over my fender and folded it in. There is only a single layer of metal there and its gotten so thin that i cannot get it straight.
rears
IMG_1687 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
IMG_1686 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr
Pretty excited to 1, not rub anymore, and 2, be able to rotate the tires when the rears go. I was also considering when I eventually track the car, it will be good to be forced into classes way beyond my driving skill so that I don't embarass myself.
Ordering new pads and rotors for the back pretty soon too. Settled on hawk HPS for now to stay within budget.
Leave a comment:
-
-
-


Leave a comment: