Anti-depressants (doing that exhaust was borderline suicide).... although then again considering how the hard part's already been done I guess it wouldn't be too bad.
You'll have to come over and hear how well the cutout works to decide whether you'll want one or not, but they are a bit pricey... in any case, here's the basic parts list you'll need:
50 feet of header wrap (I used about 40ft on my Y and mid), $37.97
5 pack of flanges, $21.97
Pipe kit from summit, $219.97 (though to be honest, all you really need is two of the straight pipes [they're 4' long each] two 90's and I think all four U's, that's what I used now that I think about it. I found the 45's to be pretty much useless)
6" Flexy pipe, $23.10 (optional, but HIGHLY recommended. I imagine it would be an absolute bitch to remove the y-pipe otherwise)
This motherfucker here is clutch for making the passenger side header shoot back for the y-pipe, $19.97
[Optional, but highly recommended] Zaust cutout $220.50
[Optional, but highly, highly recommended] 2x sets of v-band clamps for the mid pipe $60
It's expensive as fuck, but doing v-band clamps for the midpipe gives you ALOT of room to work with... in the sense that you don't have to unbolt your passenger motor mount and jack the engine up as high as it'll go to barely get the midpipe in and out. That and apparently they're leak free seals.
So basically, if you wanted to do it the way I did, you'll end up spending around $650 including the muffler. I guess you could knock that down to $450 if you skipped the cutout and did some type of flowmaster or whatever.... but if you did that I would also recommend a resonator. Also, I'm sure you could source the mandrel pipes for a lot less than $220, but it should be noted that the pipes that came in that kit have pretty thick walls and definitely won't be rusting out any time soon (also not cheap metal).
Just hit me up some time... preferably when it's gotten warmer
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