Willy's 72' 2002

[Farbin Kaiber]

Lulz. Maybe if Gravik get's an e30 (God forbid)

I would leave r3v.

[ST1G]

I have no immediate plans to repaint the car. I do however want to fix all of the rust and hammer or the dents on the front apron. I would also like to buff what's left of the paint though.

I will probably just primer the areas that I fix the rust, which externally is limited to the front apron and the rear lower quarter panels.

The original plan for the wheels were to use the stock E30 steelies that I could buy from ECS tuning for a decent price. However I was able to snatch up the basketweaves for dirt. I may still purchase those steel wheels as they really look amazing on these cars:

I like the weaves. I think the patina is nice, but with that much rust I think that it would look better with a fresh Colorado orange paint. Let me know if you need any help Willy I'd love to lend a hand.

Suddenly this thread has become a mini extension of idahomotorsports .....

Lulz. Maybe if Gravik get's an e30 (God forbid)

[SkiFree]

If you want a real period look, keep an eye out for a set of 14" steelies from an 1800 or 2000cs.

That car is certainly rough, glad your going to try and save it though.

[knuklehead92]

shit dude looks like mine when i first got one.... lots of work a head of you good luck

[Big Willy]

NEVER EVER touch that patina! repair any other rust that is not the body, just get it running and replace the suspension. That car is IMO perfection of a classic patina, I saw an old pea green Chevy C10 yesterday, just a gorgeous well used truck with so much patina. I would love to get my hands on that 2002 ;)

^Agree, mostly. I'd still try to fix the rust on the body. There might be a way to paint the new metal so that it matches, but I don't know. Maybe search around on some hotrod forums to see if there's a painting technique to do that. And keep the steelies, put some new tires on 'em. They fit the car perfectly. The basketweaves look too modern, I think.

I have no immediate plans to repaint the car. I do however want to fix all of the rust and hammer or the dents on the front apron. I would also like to buff what's left of the paint though.

I will probably just primer the areas that I fix the rust, which externally is limited to the front apron and the rear lower quarter panels.

The original plan for the wheels were to use the stock E30 steelies that I could buy from ECS tuning for a decent price. However I was able to snatch up the basketweaves for dirt. I may still purchase those steel wheels as they really look amazing on these cars:

[rturbo 930]

^Agree, mostly. I'd still try to fix the rust on the body. There might be a way to paint the new metal so that it matches, but I don't know. Maybe search around on some hotrod forums to see if there's a painting technique to do that. And keep the steelies, put some new tires on 'em. They fit the car perfectly. The basketweaves look too modern, I think.

[F34R]

I definitely plan to keep the same Colorado orange, its such an iconic color for these cars. The current plans are to clean off the grim, but keep the paint in its current state for a while as I get the mechanics and suspension refreshed over time. Thus car has some really awesome patina.

NEVER EVER touch that patina! repair any other rust that is not the body, just get it running and replace the suspension. That car is IMO perfection of a classic patina, I saw an old pea green Chevy C10 yesterday, just a gorgeous well used truck with so much patina. I would love to get my hands on that 2002 ;)

[Farbin Kaiber]

Schaweet. I like where this is going. That spare well is a sad sight.

[Big Willy]

School and funds have really limited me from making any considerable progress, however I did manage to score a set of IS basketweaves from the local junk yard:



I was driving the car down the driveway when the engine just gave out, making sure that I was still getting fuel, I checked for spark. No spark, then I realized the fresh Bosch contact point wasn't contacting the distributor cam at all, the plastic rocker on the point had melted somehow. I have no clue how this happened or how common of an issue this is, I had barely even driven the car:



After popping in the new new contact point, the M10 sprang back to life, I even drove it to the nearby gas station to air up the tires and realize how much the brakes need a refresh.



I've been working on my welding in preparation of replacing the part of the floor boards, spare tire well, and front and rear aprons. As you can see I have a lot of welding ahead of me:









Luckily all of the major areas, like the rear strut mounts are in incredible shape:





The next big plans are to go through all the brakes, rebuild the front calipers, buy some new rear drum cylinders. When I've saved up a little more I'll be shortening the front struts with VW Rabbit sport shocks, much stiffer springs, and sway bars from Ireland Engineering.

[Farbin Kaiber]

Suddenly this thread has become a mini extension of idahomotorsports .....

Looks like you're doing work on this thing.

LOL. Never thought I'd see this many Idaho people on r3v when I first moved here.

[totheredline]

She needs some major lovin...

[wark]

Go Willy!

Yay! Brian is here, no going back now, you must get an e30!

[SkiFree]

Suddenly this thread has become a mini extension of idahomotorsports .....

Looks like you're doing work on this thing.

[spastik]

Go Willy!

[ST1G]

Awesome!! It's great to see that you got the car moving under its own power. I can't wait to see it all washed up.