phenryiv1's 1989 325iC Project - SETA 2.7i Swap Complete and Running!

[phenryiv1]

So the first new tires arrived:



Yokohama S.Drive, 205/55/15. These will (tentatively) go on the D-Force LTW wheels.

Discount Tire Direct had a sale that was $135 off the set so I ordered them. I don't know that they are the BEST tires available but in my size they seem to give the best performance/value.

I also orderd a complete set of "winter" (A/S will suffice) wheels & tires for the e30. The total deal on them was crazy. I don't LOVE the wheels but they will do the trick.

Drag DR-20 (silver, machined face) ET10 15x7 for $85 shipped each, Kumho Ecsta 4xII tires (205-55-15) for $75 each, shipped. So why order them at all?

First, the Kumhos were mis-priced on DTD. TireRack has them for $89 plus shipping. DTD has them as a "special order" tire so I got them at the crazy price of $75 each...plus a $135 rebate on the set from DTD, plus a $100 rebate from Kumho. The whole set was $65 shipped. The Drag wheels were $85 for all 4 with a $160 rebate, so $200 shipped, and mount & balance was free. Basically the wheels cost me $120 for the set, when you estimate $20 per tire to M&B. All told the set of winter wheels is under $200.

DTD also had the 235/45/17 size for my WRX mis-priced at $88 each (versus $129 plus shipping on TR) so I got those with the same #135 + $100 rebates...~$125 for all 4 tires for the Subaru.

Next up IO gave up on my Momo hubs. I have received 2 different hubs, both with defects (different defects) and neither will cancel my turn signals. I wasted $50 on a replacement turn signal arm thinking it was the arm but when I installed a 3-spoke Sport wheel that I traded for this weekend it worked perfectly.

I have to say that I actually like the 3-spoke wheel quite a bit.

[phenryiv1]

Oh yeah, and I ordered a variety of wheels, tires, and more tires for the e30 and my WRX. More details as things arrive.

[phenryiv1]

So I washed the car in preparation for the return to the paint shop this week. I did it in the rain so that I got a nice rinse. I missed a few spots but I can go back later.





Since I had nothing else to do I wired up some adapters for the fog lights using the leads from some destroyed Bosch OEM fog lights and the pigtails form the late model fogs. I crimped, heat-shrinked, and then taped them. Now all I need to do is install the lights after the paint punch list.



I also sent payments for some parts- rear headrests with brackets, a replacement turn stalk, and a digital voltmeter. I'll update as they arrive and get installed.

Last progress today (untested, so it may have been a waste) was to splice my antenna cable back together.

I connected the single center lead, re-sheathed it, and taped over it.



Next I pulled the braided layer as tightly as I could and augmented it with aluminum foil:



I taped the crap out of it:



And reconnected it:



Fingers crossed that is works.

[95maxrider]

This is the tap and die kit I have: HERE

In looking at the pictures, I don't see any die that looks even remotely big enough to do what you need. However, someone posted up a list of the included sizes, and 12mm x 1.50 is indeed listed, so you're welcome to come grab it.

[phenryiv1]

So this happened...



My turn signal cancel was malfunctioning worse now than before the alignment so I pulled the wheel to check the cancel nub. The nut (brand new) had compromised threads and the shaft itself was a mess.

Upon examination of the old Momo hub versus the new one I can see that the hub has an issue with the casting of the cancel nub. I don't know if this caused the turn signal issues but my stalk will cancel from the right but not the left.



Looks like I will be re-threading the shaft from an M14x1.5 to an M12x1.5.

Fun.

Looks like I might need a new steering shaft. 32311156068

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BB13-USA---E30-BMW-325i&diagId=32_0448

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES53072/

[irish44j]

the new wheels are a big improvement.

also, come get that dash top.

[phenryiv1]

Back to the antenna situation...

So here is my not-so-solid temporary connection:



As luck would have it I was selling wheels yesterday and I happened to mention my antenna situation to the buyer and he gave me his antenna cable end to use to splice together. After cutting it open the center lead looks like a single filament.



I have posted in the audio subforum for suggestions on how to splice the 2 parts together. Best I could find is this, which tells me nothing...

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=221053

I do have a new cable but for now I want to have this until I do the whole re-wire for the amps and additional signal cables.

[phenryiv1]

So I started playing with the RyanG splitter last night. I had concerns that is was curled even after putting it flat in the sun for hours but after using some binding clips (the kind used for paper) I was able to get it to sit flat against my is lip. As soon as the paint is fixed/finished I will be able to install this stuff.





I also noticed that the car has indeed settled. Between the loss of 3/4" ride height by downsizing form the 215/45/17 to my 205/50/15 and then settling after driving the car managed to scrape on the lift. It actually nicked the rubber coating on the hydraulic hoses so until I get the car up a little higher I don't think I will be parking it over the ramps.

I did take a couple parking lot shots. The more I drive it the more i like it.





I also managed to do a quick & dirty antenna repair on the mangled end of the OEM antenna cable. I took apart the 12V +/- connector and wired it uip to the Z3 antenna base and then used the raw end of the antenna cable and was able to get a solid signal to the headunit. No pictures now (and when I have them I warn that it is ugly) but at least I know that it is possible to have ot work until I install the replacement antenna cable.

[phenryiv1]

Ya your tires are definitely undersized. I'd aim to fill the wheel wells and to hell with the overall diameter. Essentially all you'll do is reduce your final drive ratio, meaning slightly better fuel economy at the expense of slightly slower acceleration.

Not worried about changes in MPG or acceleration in that small of an increment.

I will be going either 205/55/15 or 205/50/16 in the future.

[CorvallisBMW]

Ya your tires are definitely undersized. I'd aim to fill the wheel wells and to hell with the overall diameter. Essentially all you'll do is reduce your final drive ratio, meaning slightly better fuel economy at the expense of slightly slower acceleration.

[phenryiv1]

I got tired of driving the car with no stereo so I broke out the multimeter and the electronics troubleshooting manual and went to work. The 12V+ wire was still reading nothing but the 12V switched was good. I went back to the fuse box and re-checked the fuse- blown. Not sure how but it was toast- and I swore I had checked that a few weeks ago. I stole the fog light fuse (fogs are not installed while I await the return to the body shop) and it powered right up.

Bonus was that my tach and 12-button OBC also powered up. I have no idea how long the fuse had been out but the lack of a tach had been a concern for me for a while so having it back up was a nice side benefit. I was about to drop $$$$ on the SI board service but it seems to be working now. Sometimes it is (literally) the little things that make big differences.

Now, I admit that this stereo is far from attractive but it does have all of the features that I wanted. I installed it quickly to test function- later I will work on texture/color matching the trim ring and running the USB cable for a thumbdrive/iPod/phone connection.



And I finally have some music for the drive!

After getting tired of looking through boxes I dropped the $9 on a new Z3 antenna grommet. The antenna is not connected but at least the hole is now water tight.



I have the new antenna cable (HU to antenna) but am waiting until I run other cables to do the install.

Next up I will look to get the front speakers replaced. I don't know what is currently installed but they have, um, questionable bass. I am guessing some entry level coaxials as the OEM tweeters are not installed but I still have some highs coming from the front.

Unrelated, the car seems to have settled even further. I still think that I need t orun with a 205/55/15 or a 205/50/16 for the long haul but it looks more and more 'normal" on 205/50/15s the longer that I drive it.

[phenryiv1]

I also got these cool gifts for Father's Day:

[phenryiv1]

Well, it was a sad day but the 17x7.5" Motorsport replica wheels are gone. They were big, heavy, and rubbed (on the fender liners, which I would prefer to keep) in turns so I sold them this weekend and installed the D-Force LTW wheels that arrived last week.

First, a few pictures right after the install (they had not settled):











Now a few after 20 miles of driving:









And then after cleaning them up a bit (and more driving):





All in all, not terribly happy with the look. I don't know if it is the gap with the 205/50/15 StarSpec ZII tires (as opposed to a taller 205/55/15) or the small wheels, or the offset, or what. I like the design of the wheels and I like the performance of the tires but it does not all come together well.

For now I am considering a few options:

First off, some data:

Stock size (for the 14” basketweave wheels) is 195/65/14, which works out to 24” diameter and 7.9” section width.

I had 215/45/17 on 7.5” wheels, which was a nice look but rubbed on the fender liners at certain points in the wheel sweep. Specs: 24.6” diameter and 8.2” wide.

The current wheels are 15x7 wearing 205/50/15 Star Spec ZII tires. They are 23.1” tall and 6.5” tread width, 8.4” section width. No rubbing anywhere. The 1./5” smaller diameter explains why they look so horribly small in the wheel wells versus the 17” I had.

So the options:

205/55/15. I can run these on a 15x7” wheel without any issues but a 15x8 will result in a slight stretch. I see MANY examples of people fitting them on a 15x8 and they don’t actually look stretched. I was on the fence about it but I looked at pictures (see below for example) and I don’t mind it.

Specs 1 (Kumhos): 23.9” diameter, 6.9” tread width, 8.4” section width.
Specs 2 (Dunlops): 23.9” diameter, 7” tread, 8.4” section width.

Both list a 7.5” wheel as the max.

Here are the options on Tire Rack. If I go “summer: I’ll get the Direzza DZ102 and if I go A/S I’ll get the Ecsta 4x II, which has a $100 rebate all month. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSe...r=17&zip-code=

Here are a couple pictures of 205/55/15 tires on 15x7 & 15x8 wheels. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...&postcount=187

If I go this route and keep the current wheels I will add some spacers- 5mm or 8mm, or 5F/8R and worry about new wheels later.

Pros: Comfort, cost, already have the wheels. Can run them on wider 15” later.

Cons: Not in love with the (current) wheels, limits width to 8” (not that I would go wider), and well, 15” wheels…enough said.

16” tire options:

205/50/16: 24.1” diameter, 8.4” section width, 6.9 to 7” tread width. “Safe” wheel width range 5.5-7.5”
225/50/16: 24.9” diameter, 9.2” section width, 7.4” tread width, 6-8” wheel range

Here I’d have to err toward the 205/50/16 as a 225/50 might rub due to the overall diameter. With it being larger overall than a 215/45/17 and wider (at 225 versus 215) I am probably stuck.

Pros (of 16”): The 205/50/16 is basically the same amount of sidewall that I have on the ZIIs on the car now but another inch of metal in the center. Probably would look great. Tires (in the long run) will be easier to find versus 15” but but the time I have to get new tires I may have had wheel-ADD kick in and will want new wheels anyway.

Cons: I have to buy new wheels and tires. I can’t really find 16” wheels that I love right now. Well, I can find some that I like ( http://www.3sdm.co.uk/collection/wheel-005.php ) but my wife hates them and I don’t love them enough to press forward.

[phenryiv1]

NOW we are getting somewhere!

So I got the car from the shop this morning. The difference is staggering. My alignment was so off that I was really questioning the whole "Ultimate Driving Machine" thing. After alignment: Excellent.

The specs were pretty bad before- even moreso because the shop eyeballed the camber to something approximating normal during the camber plate install before putting it on the rack.



The good news is that the car was able to be dialed into spec after lowering by using the UUC / SPC camber plates ( http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/e30-c...ries-p431.aspx ). The bad news is that the whole thing set me back about $500, installed and aligned.

So before the alignment and camber adjustment the car looked somewhat stanced and was generally looking boy-racer-ish up front. Now it looks like it is owned by someone who likes to drive- not hard park. "Before" pictures are on pages 19 & 20.

After:





So the sad reality is that the frame on this car is not perfectly straight. Look at the difference in camber plate setup to get the numbers above:





So now on to test-fitting the 15" D-Force wheels to see if I like them. I have the 17" reps tentatively sold for this weekend (the guy paid a deposit) but if he continues to flake on pickup dates I am going to move on to another buyer- or just keep them. He has had to reschedule for almost 3 weeks now and messages to set something up for this weekend are receiving very non-committal replies. I don't have any interest in disrupting family plans to meet his schedule when I gave him my availability over 2 weeks ago.

[phenryiv1]

Got word that the alignment is finished but I don't think I can get there to get it before Friday.

Other items:

I got tired of looking for my old Z3 antenna grommet and spent $10 on a new one. Also ordered 4 new roundel grommets. Why are the little parts so expensive?

I also ordered a new hood. The car is going back to paint for a few punch list items and I could not bear the thought of all new paint and that dinged up hood. Since they have to do paint anyway I got them to paint the hood for for free (since they neglected to notify me of the bends BEFORE they painted) and I just pay for parts. The car goes back July 1 and should be there for about a week, after which I can finally install all of the trim that I had painted.