SNAFU; high performance 318is build that lives up to the name, Turbo M42 ➞ Turbo M20

[varg]

So I got one test drive in with the refreshed suspension and poly offset CABs, there was a definite improvement, but now it's time for more work, so back up on jackstands it goes. I started the timing case cover job today. What a mess...




This won't be going back in.


After de-greasing and removal of all of the pulleys. You don't need to pay $60 for piece of steel with holes drilled in it and a pipe welded to it if you have a MAPP torch, a good starter and a breaker bar. After trying to break the crank bolt free without heat several times, I broke out the torch and on the third bump after getting the bolt nice and hot it broke free. An easy way to do a job that gives a lot of people a lot of grief. It helps to not be rushing to get a car back on the road though, taking your time makes working on a car almost relaxing. As for doing big jobs on your only vehicle and being stressed; I've been there and don't want to do it again.

After I finish fixing the oil leaks, it's time for this project to finally get interesting.

[sam_]

looks like a great start! sub'd

[varg]

This week's project is the suspension. I removed the control arms and had a shop press new ball joints in and removed the bad wheel bearing (it was seized in there pretty badly, took some wailing on the slide hammer to get it out). I got lucky though and the hub came out of the bearing instead of the races separating.


This part is a lot easier if you have an assistant sit in the car and step on the brakes for you while you break the bolts free, then let off to allow you to rotate the axle so that the next bolt is in an optimal position.


Hub out, corrosion is evident.


No LSD :(

Tips on doing these jobs for anyone about to attempt them for the first time:
-The passenger side ball joint is a pain to get to. Remove the swaybar and the heat shield that is over the engine mount, undo the bottom nut on the mount and jack the engine up a couple of inches. Put a socket in between the engine mount and the crossmember and have at that upper ball joint with a 7/8"/22mm wrench. It will take a good amount of force to break it free.
-Soak all nuts and bolts to be wrenched on in the penetrating oil of your choice for a couple of days prior to your project. Because I did this, the 30mm axle nut and ball joint nuts that so many have had so much trouble with was easily removed in my case
-You don't need to remove the parking brake components to do the wheel bearings, I have read people saying that you do. Use a pulley puller and a slide hammer to yank the hub; it will take some serious beating if yours is as seized as mine was.
-You can rent the pullers and slide hammer at your local Autozone (deposit and return, no rental fee) Slide hammer part 27033, Axle bearing remover part 27129. I had my own "steering wheel puller" which I used in conjunction with the slide hammer to remove the hub, I also used it to push the axle out of the hub.
-Lollipops come off the control arms easily with a 3 jaw puller, I wouldn't rent one of these if you don't have one. It's a useful tool to own.

[deutschman]

Nice

[Codym42]

Always nice to see another 318is! Subscribed

Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk

[varg]

Mod list, newest in bold

• M20B25 swap
• 272°, 11mm lift cam
• Megasquirt 2 V3 with zeal daughterboard and electronic boost control
• Wasted spark ignition
• Turbonetics T3/T4 60 trim .63ar turbocharger (58/75mm compressor 65/57mm turbine)
• Koni single adjustable shocks
• Homebrew coilovers, 450lb/in front 650lb/in rear
• Z3 2.7 turn LTL steering rack
• Spec stage 3+ clutch
• Rapid Spool Industries exhaust manifold
• 3" turbo back exhaust
• 3.25 medium case LSD
• 225/45/16 Toyo R1R tires
• 16x8 ET20 XXR 530 wheels
• 24"x12"x3" intercooler
• Z3 short shifter
• Garagistic DSSR and ball bearing selector joint
• Deatschwerks DW300 fuel pump
• Siemens Deka 60lb/hr fuel injectors
• ARP head studs
• Poly offset control arm bushings
• Condor speed shop UHMW bushings and diff mount
• Z3M Radiator
• Trunk mounted washer reservoir

This is my first E30 and I'll be improving it.





More pictures to come, and better quality (phone pictures above, the first pictures I took of it 5-24-2014 when I bought it)

The good:
-Cold AC!
-5 speed
-Relatively rust free (only a little on the strut tower near the header and on the sunroof panel)
-Runs well, compression test within spec
-Clean interior
-Crack-free dash
-Power windows
-No water leaks
-No apparent crash damage, all body panel VIN tags match
-New tires
-New CSB
-New brake pads
-Coil On Plug conversion done, otherwise stock(!)
-Nice Alpine headunit that doesn't look like something out of the fast and furious franchise
-No power antenna
-Tinted windows


The bad:
-Bottlecaps, no basketweaves...
-Leaks oil pretty bad (timing case cover, valve cover gasket)
-Needed new balljoints
-(surface)rusty sunroof panel with hard, worn out seal
-Paint is shot, and it's a repaint
-Odometer doesn't work, estimated mileage? Around 200k...
-Brake fluid was nasty
-Typical M42 vacuum leaks under the intake manifold (I have already remedied this and removed the TB heater plates)
-Aux fan busted
-Driver's side won't lock from the inside or outside, but will with the power locks
-Courtesy lights don't work when driver's door is open
-Needed suspension refreshed (typical for a 23 year old car)
-Bad rear right wheel bearing
-Not a 325is
-No LSD
-A few dings and scuffs

Stay tuned for project updates!