Northern's Sterlingsilber M52 Turbo 325is

[grinchxvx]

Good intercooler fitment pics this will help me a lot once I go to chop mine up so it can actually go on!


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[grinchxvx]

Valance* can go on


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[jph]

Good intercooler fitment pics this will help me a lot once I go to chop mine up so it can actually go on!


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I must have removed and replaced my front valance 50 times cutting and checking fitment for my intercooler. I have a 24x12x3 Mishimoto intercooler and mounted the inlet/outlet on the bottom so they sit right behind the brake ducts on the valance. Ended up losing my lower two mounting points but was able to keep the upper two and all the others under the headlights and on the fender so it should be ok.

[grinchxvx]

I must have removed and replaced my front valance 50 times cutting and checking fitment for my intercooler. I have a 24x12x3 Mishimoto intercooler and mounted the inlet/outlet on the bottom so they sit right behind the brake ducts on the valance. Ended up losing my lower two mounting points but was able to keep the upper two and all the others under the headlights and on the fender so it should be ok.

That's exactly how mine is

[Northern]

What are the dimensions of that intercooler? Looks like a decent piece. That engine is going to have a good feel when you get it going, that high compression 2.8L with a HX35 should spool nice and quick and have plenty of low end torque.

I had no idea, so I just measured it. 20x12 is the core size, not sure if it's 2.5" thick or 3" thick, but the in/out are 2.5".

Edit: I went back and looked at the ad I bought this from, and it's advertised as 21x9x2.75. I'll probably come back and edit this again next time I take the front end off and can measure properly.

I'm going to steal your idea of cutting a chunk out of the front bumper to get some airflow to the intercooler. I might try to see if there's a way to mount some kind of angled piece in place of the cutout to direct the flow to the intercooler/radiator when the car is moving. Might not be worth the effort but I'll see what's what when I get to that point.

I'm banking on it being a high pressure area, same sort of logic people use for splitters, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. You can pretty much cut right to where the curve starts, and from where the steel mounting bracket inside the bumper ends on each side.

I used a 1" hole saw at each end to get the radius, then used a grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the straight bits. It cuts fine, just creates a ton of dust that's probably extremely unhealthy.

[PerryJ]

:0

I love that turbo!
This looks so clean.

[jph]

Northern, now that you have used your setup with the turbo oil drain tapped in the block and the Good 'n Tight manifold would you keep the drain in the same location, or would you consider moving it up/down/fore/aft from where you have it now? I'm about to drill and tap mine before bringing my block in for machining. I am using a 1/2" NPT fitting on the block side so it's a bit smaller than what you have. I picked up a 45 degree 1/2 NPT to 10 AN fitting to install in my block. Any advice would be very helpful!

[Northern]

I love that turbo!
This looks so clean.

Thanks! Hopefully I can clean some of the little things up a little more yet.

[Northern]

Northern, now that you have used your setup with the turbo oil drain tapped in the block and the Good 'n Tight manifold would you keep the drain in the same location, or would you consider moving it up/down/fore/aft from where you have it now? I'm about to drill and tap mine before bringing my block in for machining. I am using a 1/2" NPT fitting on the block side so it's a bit smaller than what you have. I picked up a 45 degree 1/2 NPT to 10 AN fitting to install in my block. Any advice would be very helpful!

I think it's in a decent spot, but fitment is really tight. The drain line has to go straight down to clear the compressor housing/elbow and turbine Inlet flange, then immediately shoot forward to clear the cyl 1 exhaust runner, then inboard to clear the frame rail. I managed to put an Adel clamp on the line and a tab with a hole mounted to a vanos/timing cover stud, then a piece of .041" lockwire pulling tension on them to hold the drain in just the right spot. I twisted the wire lightly and attached it with the smallest amount of slack, then shortened it to the right length by twisting the wire via the timing cover tab.

I'll try to take a picture. Pretty easy to do with the compressor housing off.

For the fitting, I dont really like the offset stuff because it can be a pain to get it to be tight in the right orientation, but some sort of sealant would probably fix that.

If I did it again, I'd get someone to braze the fitting on, or use jb weld or something other than just loctite on the threads. Mine leaked until I cleaned it and packed RTV under the edge of the fitting. NPT should seal better than the AN thread on my block too.

[jph]

Ok, so here's how mine looks now. I'm driving to drop the block off at Korman tomorrow for the machine work and cleanup. I have a feeling I'm going to have to use a different fitting than the 45* but won't really know for sure until everything is bolted up.

EDIT: site won't let me post a pic from my phone. I'll see if I can get one up later.

[jph]

Ok got it to work using an app. Here's my drain setup in the block




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[jph]

Quick question...I have around 1/4" of the NPT threaded fitting protruding inside the block. Aside from the obvious clearance issues (if any) when I put the bottom end back together, is there any reason to worry about this? I don't think so but I'm not really sure so figured I'd ask.

[Northern]

Iooks good, I'd make sure you have a healthy amount of clearance once you get the crank /rods back in. I cut down the backside of my AN fitting quite a bit to minimize protrusion on the inside because I found that I had like 1/2" poking in.

[Northern]

Pumped

[jph]

Pumped

Specs? Or did I miss it in a previous post?