Northern's Sterlingsilber M52 Turbo 325is

[Northern]

If I didn't have a MAF, and if I wasn't asking for trouble already with stock CR, I'd probably just run it as is.

I've been through that thread twice, and it didn't instill a lot of confidence in the exhaust draft setup. Plus I still think it will fill the resonator/muffler with oil over time.

I don't think I'd ever consider wiring up and finding space for a vacuum pump, but I think I will do some sort of well-vented catch can down there to catch the majority of liquid that comes out, just so it doesn't look like my car leaks any more than a normal E36 PS setup...

[Northern]

Also when I get the new BOV, I'm thinking about moving it to the other side, pre-FMIC.

Mostly thinking about this to try to get it further away from the MAF...
I also don't see the point of bringing hot air through the FMIC that I'm not even going to use, and it's there to relieve pressure from the compressor anyway, so why shouldn't it be closer?

Biggest downsides to moving it are: more vacuum line, and potential space issues.


Any opinions?

[Good & Tight]

I've never had luck with this setup :( ruined my octane rating and damaged my first motor long time ago from the cumbustion contamination.
What's your secret? I think I remember your hose from the catch can is just hovering in front of the turbo inlet rather than being directly plumbed into it on an elbow?
Does piston ring gap have anything to do with this? Like, if the gap is expanded from heat to be almost fully sealed for little to know blow by to pass through, I imagine you can directly plumb the line into the inlet with no ill effect?
Almost every single turbo 2jz engine I see is like this and it makes me mad jealous.

My 24v turbo setup was a draw through MAF, so it was between the MAF and turbo inlet.
I fabricated my own baffled catch can using 1/2" hoses. The negative pressure at the turbo inlet is pretty high with a filter under boost, too much vacuum and it will draw oil through.

I think the key is how the catch can inlet and outlet are placed. Mine was piped --> valve cover line to bottom of catch can, and the top catch can line to turbo inlet.

On the turbo M30 no catch can or air filter, just a 3/4" heater hose to the bottom of inlet cone.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Man I've been through the ins and outs of that thread and almost every other CCV thread in the f/i section of bfc haha. That's actually the one I was referring to. Everyone who did a check valve to the exhaust never had success - only the guy with the Dakar m3 in Irvine who ran a vac pump had tremendous success with it. His video is so cool.
Another guy with an m20 turbo did the same with the handle e30ordie on Instagram.

I've done quite a bit of research starting in the v8 world and did a lot of testing to learn more about the setup and functionality. What I understand is that it's most effective (in the v8 world) when a full exhaust is not being run. Reason being is that system back pressure quickly negates the small amount of vacuum via the exhaust evac setup. If you're running no mufflers and terminating the exhaust system 20 inches after your collector, there is zero back pressure. The vacuum measurements I took off the evac fitting on my exhaust at various positions seemed to follow this. At low-mid rpm I pulled vacuum, and at mid-high rpm I didn't (where back pressure would have increased). I never got around to taking static pressure readings from the exhaust to confirm my theory, or measuring vacuum with both mid and rear mufflers removed, but I am quite sure that was it (I do intend to revisit this project and continue testing).

If I didn't have a MAF, and if I wasn't asking for trouble already with stock CR, I'd probably just run it as is.

I've been through that thread twice, and it didn't instill a lot of confidence in the exhaust draft setup. Plus I still think it will fill the resonator/muffler with oil over time.

I don't think I'd ever consider wiring up and finding space for a vacuum pump, but I think I will do some sort of well-vented catch can down there to catch the majority of liquid that comes out, just so it doesn't look like my car leaks any more than a normal E36 PS setup...

I know of another guy who had success with the setup running a supercharged 24v in his e30. But as I mentioned before with the v8s, this guy had no muffler and the exhaust running straight out the passenger fender aka no back pressure.

Regarding filling your exhaust/muffler with oil, it does not. I've checked mine several times and there wasn't even any residue on the inside of the pipe after the bung. Though the inside of the fitting itself does get a little grimy.

[Northern]

I pulled the BOV out of the car today to mess with it. Figured I can't really make it any worse, so why not.

Pulled the cover off the valve, and found that it leaked from around the small valve in the centre, so I stripped it down. What I found:



That didn't look right, so I pulled the large valve apart and found that the bonded rubber/silicone ring was missing half way around, and also somehow the plastic of the big valve had worn into the metal on the small valve...



I pulled the rest of the silicone off, chucked it in a drill and sanded it down, then cleaned it and threw a thin layer of silicone on it. Hopefully it works at least a tiny bit better than before. It sure as hell can't be any worse.

[ba114]

^ That's the thread where the guy flipped the input and output and gutted the check valve. I'm going to give that a shot at some point down the road.

This will be my setup once i put it back together:


Check valve to manifold will open under vacuum, close when boosting.
Check valve to catch can/turbo inlet will open under vacuum from the turbo inlet. It *should* be closed when the manifold is under vacuum as i expect greater vacuum from the manifold than the inlet when the throttle is closed.

The extra catch can may be overkill, but i don't see it being an issue. Will probably have it drain back to the dipstick as well

[Northern]

^ going to make a very primitive catch can soon, just so I don't leak oil everywhere (not that I care, but if I do slaloms/track school/lapping days next year I feel like it'll be a problem.)


My stupid ebay shifter came apart again as I was driving just now, I'm so sick of this POS.


Going to make something to fit the stock style shifter again, and either run an e36 328i shifter from the shed, or modify a "metal ball" style for shorter throw and make something like this:

[ba114]

i've been looking at this shifter as a possibility:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/322293721774?...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I like that it will raise the cup up from the carrier (like it should) so you don't have to bend the shift arm due to the added length under the fulcrum

[Northern]

The one I have now also raises the cup by a bit, but the one you linked looks to be much nicer quality than mine haha. I think a floor mount will raise the pivot up by ~1" from stock as well.

Also: I have all new delrin shifter bushings/selector joint, but there's still play from the dumb shifter itself.

I even made replacement nylon bushings for the lower joint where the shifter attaches to the selector rod, but there are so many weak points on this shifter that I'm just going to go back to the stock style with that floor mount bracket.

[ba114]

So you're going to do away with the carrier altogether?
Interested to see how this goes with your engine & transmission mount setup

[ba114]

Also, can you do me a favour and tell me what voltage you're seeing on the red/white wire going to your MAF with it unplugged and ignition on ACC? I'm seeing a very strange reading (2.6v)

[Northern]

Yeah I'm ditching the carrier. I'm not a fan of how it bolted up in the first place. The ZF320 carrier is offset where it goes into the rear bushing, and with the solid bushings, it wouldn't mount up unless I modded the bracket (A few sets of the offset carrier page 2/3 in this thread) like this:



With the solid condor engine mounts, I think a solid shifter will work fine. I might upgrade to e21 trans mounts if it's not great, but after experiencing this swap with solid trans mounts, I really don't want them.

I'll try to check the maf tonight.

[ba114]

all good, dont worry about the MAF. I had the DME relay disconnected as i thought it was the fuel pump relay which was causing incorrect voltages at the MAF. All sorted now!

[cleanasse30]

This will be my setup once i put it back together:


Check valve to manifold will open under vacuum, close when boosting.
Check valve to catch can/turbo inlet will open under vacuum from the turbo inlet. It *should* be closed when the manifold is under vacuum as i expect greater vacuum from the manifold than the inlet when the throttle is closed.

The extra catch can may be overkill, but i don't see it being an issue. Will probably have it drain back to the dipstick as well

I built my own version of this with check valves and a moroso catch can and it does work.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=4479391&postcount=47

[Northern]

I don't think I've ranted about UPS recently, so I think it's about due.

Ordered some $35 shit from ebay, shipping method was fedex. I'm not a huge fan of fedex, but at least they don't completely bend you over at the border.

I get a UPS "Infonotice" a few days later on my door and end up figuring out that it was for this part. The infonotice number "doesn't exist" on the UPS site, so I guess I can't reroute to pick it up. Also, the "myUPS" thing won't let me claim the package as mine to reroute, I guess because they must've wrote my name wrong. Aaaand there's somehow a $15.43 brokerage fee on the package, which is almost 50% of the value of the damn thing.

Day two, I left cash with my brother-in-law(who lives with us but works evenings) but they don't take cash, and now they've come a third time while he had my visa, but was in the shower. Now I have three worthless infonotices and I guess my package just gets sent back to wherever.

I mean, I guess I'll get a refund for the part, but for fuck sake can we just not use UPS.